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Pen  Pictures 
of  Early  Western  Days 


VI  KG1N1A  VVILCOX  IVINS 


ILLUSTRATIONS    BY    \VM.    S.    IVINS 


Copyrighted  190$ 


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BANCROFT 

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TO   MY  HUSBAND,, 

THE  SHARER  OF  MY  JOYS  AND  SORROWS; 
WHO  WAS  ALWAYS  "TO  MY  FAULTS  A  LITTLE  BLIND, 

AND   TO    MY    VIRTUES   VERY    KIND/' 

THIS    VOLUME    IS    AFFECTIONATELY    INSCRIBED 

BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


IN  PRESENTING  THESE  PEN  PICTURES  NO  LITER- 
ARY MERIT  IS  CLAIMED,  BUT  THAT  IT  IS  AN 
AUTHENTIC  ACCOUNT  OF  SCENES  AND  OCCURENCES 
IN  WHICH  THE  AUTHOR  EITHER  TOOK  PART,  OR  TO 
WHICH  SHE  WAS  AN  EYE  WITNESS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


O  much  has  been  said  and  written 
in  regard  to  the  early  settlement 
of  Keokuk  that  is  merely  tra- 
ditional and  often  with  small 
foundation,  therefore  it  might 
not  be  amiss  for  one  who  was 
among  the  pioneers  of  the  place 
to  jot  clown  a  few  events,  and 
describe  a  number  of  interesting  localities. 

Prior  to  the  year  1827,  the  little  village  at  the 
foot  of  the  Des  Moines  rapids  was  only  known  as 
the  Point,  by  the  people  living  near;  it  was  in  fact 
merely  a  station  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
and  as  such  a  large  trade  was  carried  on  with  the 
Indian  half  breeds  and  French,  also  with  the  white 
people  living  in  the  vicinity,  most  of  whom  were 
residents  of  Illinois.  The  nearest  settlement  was 
at  Warsaw,  then  known  as  Fort  Edwards,  being 
one  of  a  chain  of  forts  on  the  Mississippi  river. 
The  others  were  Fort  Snelling  on  the  north;  Fort 
Armstrong,  now  the  United  States  Arsenal  at 
Rock  Island;  Fort  Madison,  and  Fort  Des  Moines, 
at  the  present  site  of  Montrose. 

My  father,  Major  John  R.  Wilcox,  was  in 
charge  of  the  forts  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
during  the  Black  Hawk  war.  My  brothers  and 


io        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

sisters  were  all  born  at  the  forts  and  my  mother  was 
a  typical  soldier's  wife,  accompanying  him  on  his 
trips  from  one  fort  to  another,  often  in  the  dead  of 
winter.  The  settlers  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
sought  protection  at  Fort  Edwards  during  the 
war,  returning  to  their  homes  at  its  close.  Many 
close  and  lasting  friendships  were  formed,  by  the 
mutual  need  of  protection,  and  residence  under  one 
roof  go  to  express  it,  and  the  names  of  many  friends 
of  my  parents  and  grandparents  were  familiar  to 
my  childhood  as  household  words. 

My  father  and  mother  both  died  when  I  was 
very  small,  and  my  first  coming  to  Keokuk  was  to 
make  my  home  with  my  uncle,  Dr.  Isaac  Galland, 
in  1840. 

The  first  white  settlers  of  Keokuk  were  the  em- 
ployes of  the  fur  company,  together  writh  the  French 
and  half  breeds,  the  latter  numbering  about  thirty- 
one,  although  a  decree  of  partition  which  later  be- 
came a  lawr,  called  for  one  hundred  and  one,  and 
the  Half  Breed  Tract,  land  which  was  given  to 
these  people  by  the  government,  was  divided  into 
that  many  shares.  The  Indians  brought  many  furs 
and  pelts  to  the  trading  post,  and  a  large  traffic  \vas 
carried  on  in  exchange  for  blankets,  beads  and 
bright  colored  calicoes,  not  to  mention  liquor  in 
plenty.  Game  was  abundant,  such  as  deer,  wild 
geese,  trukeys,  quail,  phesants  and  the  smaller  ani- 
mals, which  could  be  had  for  the  killing. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Da  vs.         n 

Chief  Keoknk's  village  was  some  five  or  six 
miles  distant  at  the  Yellow  Banks  on  the  Des 
Moines  river. 

The  buildings  at  that  time  were  the  few  log 
cabins  of  the  French  and  half  breed  settlers  near 
the  river.  These  were  built  of  round  logs,  with  chim- 
neys on  the  outside  made  of  sticks  and  the  fire  place 
was  faced  with  flat  stones  for  a  fire  back  and  all  were 
chinked  with  clay.  They  usually  had  one  small  win- 
dow close  beside  the  door,  and  were  quite  warm,  with 
a  large  fire  place  occupying  most  of  one  side  of 
the  cabin,  where  could  be  rolled  in  a  huge  back  log. 
The  rafters  overhead  were  hung  with  skins  of  wild 
animals,  ears  of  Indian  corn,  strips  of  pumpkin, 
and  venison  hams  hung  up  to  dry,  while  the  walls 
were  decorated  with  guns,  shot  pouches  and  game 
bags  made  of  buckskin  tanned  by  the  Indians.  The 
floors  were  made  of  puncheon ;  these  were  logs  split 
in  half  with  the  flat  side  up,  and  were  often  quite 
uneaven. 

The  headquarters  of  the  fur  company,  which 
bore  the  euphonious  title  of  Rat  Row,  was  built  by 
them,  being  added  to  as  occasion  demanded ;  it  also 
served  as  a  steamboat  landing,  being  close  to  the 
water's  edge,  between  Main  and  Blondeau  streets. 
It  was  a  long  rambling  structure  built  of  round 
logs,  two  stones  in  part  with  a  rude  stairway  on 
the  outside  leading  to  the  second  story.  These 
floors  were  of  puncheon  also  and  a  platform  of  the 


12        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  W es tern  Days. 

same  extended  around  three  sides  of  the  building. 
At  the  north  end  was  a  row  of  one  story  cabins 
occupied  by  the  head  men.  Boat  stores  were  kept 
in  connection  with  the  company's  store  for  the 
accommodation  of  steam  and  mackinaw  boats,  the 
latter  were  a  sort  of  flat  bottomed  scow  square  at 
both  ends,  being  propelled  by  poling  and  paddling. 
Steamboats  were  becoming  quite  numerous  and  as 
my  earliest  home  was  on  the  river  at  Warsaw,  be- 
fore my  sixth  year  I  had  learned  to  spell  out  the 
names  of  the  Red  Rover,  the  Black  Warrior,  the 
Rosalie  and  the  Maid  of  Iowa;  this  was  a  small 
side-wheel  boat  running  up  the  Des  Moines  river. 
She  was  afterwards  sold  to  the  Mormons  and  run 
in  their  interest  taking  passengers  from  St.  Louis 
to  Nauvoo,  some  twelve  miles  above  Keokuk,  in 
Illinois. 

The  first  actual  white  settler,  aside  from  the  fur 
company,  was  Moses  S  til  well,  who  came  to  Keokuk 
in  1827.  His  family  consisted  of  his  wife, 
three  children  and  his  wife's  two  brothers,  Amos 
and  Valencourt  Van  Ausdol.  The  family  were 
domiciled  at  Rat  Row  while  the  men  were  building 
a  cabin  for  them  at  what  is  now  the  corner  of  Ninth 
and  Morgan  streets,  then  a  dense  woods.  The  first 
christening  was  that  of  their  little  daughter  a  year 
or  two  old,  who  was  baptised-  by  the  missionary 
priest.  She  wras  named  for  Mrs.  Margaret  Aldrich 
of  loving  memory  who  was  sponsor  for  the  little 


RAT   ROW   IN    1840. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         13 

pioneer.  Mark  Alclrich,  husband  of  this  lady,  was 
the  agent  of  the  fur  company,  living  at  Rat  Row. 
He  was  afterwards  a  settler  at  Fort  Edwards  dur- 
ing the  Black  Hawk  war.  Mrs.  Alclrich  herself  is 
my  authority  for  this  statement,  and  Margaret  Stil- 
well  was  a  schoolmate  of  mine.  She  afterwards 
married  Dr.  E.  R.  Ford,  living  for  a  number  of 
years  at  First  and  High  streets. 

After  the  close  of  the  war  as  people  returned  to 
their  homes  the  little  village  began  to  improve  and 
log  houses  were  erected  farther  up  on  the  hillside. 

About  the  year  1837,  the  town  of  Keokuk  was 
laid  out  a  mile  square  by  my  uncle,  Dr.  Isaac  Gal- 
land,  who  surveyed,  platted  and  gave  it  its  name. 
He  was  assisted  in  the  work  by  a  surveyor  named 
Brattle,  whom  I  remember  quite  well.  Dr.  Galland 
also  named  the  streets,  and  squares,  three  in  num- 
ber. Of  these  there  were  Franklin  square  on  Main 
between  Ninth  and  Tenth,  Chatham  square  at  Sev- 
enth and  Morgan,  and  Arch  square  at  Eleventh 
and  Timea  streets.  Unfortunately  these  squares 
were  not  kept  for  park  purposes  as  intended,  for  this 
would  have  added  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the 
town. 

Dr.  Galland  had  taken  the  plan  of  Philadelphia 
as  a  model,  and  our  wide  Main  street  was  patterned 
after  Broad  street  in  that  city.  The  Doctor  had 
maps  struck  off,  and  many  were  the  plats  of  the 
tnwn  and  maps  of  the  surrounding  country  my 


14        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

childish  fingers  painted  and  made  ready  for  distribu- 
tion. At  the  time  of  my  first  coming  to  Keokuk, 
June,  1840,  there  were  a  number  of  houses  in 
course  of  erection,  mostly  of  hewed  logs  with  a  few 
of  frame.  Daniel  Hine  had  built  a  comfortable 
hewed  log  house  on  Water  street  between  Main  and 
Blondeau,  bringing  his  family  here  from  Warsaw. 
Madam  St.  Amant,  one  of  the  leading  half  breeds 
who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English,  lived  on 
Concert  street  between  First  and  Second.  Her  son, 
Frank  Labershier,  was  the  French  and  Indian  inter- 
preter. He  was  very  handsome  with  much  native 
polish  of  manner,  a  splendid  specimen  of  a  man. 
He  died  shortly  after  I  came,  leaving  only  his 
mother  and  two  sisters.  At  that  time  there  were 
a  number  of  French  residents  here,  among  them 
Maurice  and  Piere  Blondeau,  Joshua  Palean,  Ed- 
ward Brishnell  and  others,  most  of  whom  had  In- 
dian wives.  Henry  J.  Campbell,  whose  wife  was 
a  Potawotamie  half  breed,  had  a  cabin  on  First 
street  between  Johnson  and  Exchange;  Alex.  Mc- 
Bride,  whose  wife  was  a  daughter  of  Madam  St. 
Amant,  lived  on  Bank  street  between  First  and  sec- 
ond, and  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Water  street, 
with  a  porch  on  the  front  and  a  garden  back  of  it, 
on  the  slope  of  the  hill  lived  Mrs.  Gaines  of  whom 
more  anon. 

Dr.  Galland  had  built  quite  a  pretentious  house 
for  the  times  on  Water  street  between  Main  and 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         15 

Johnson  street  which  is  still  standing,  a  store  below 
and  a  dwelling  above.  Here  he  brought  his  wife 
and  little  niece  expecting  to  remain  and  send  for 
the  other  members  of  his  family.  He  also  had  in 
course  of  erection  a  most  comfortable  house  part 
way  up  the  hill  on  the  south  side  of  Main  street 
between  First  and  Second,  where  the  stones  of  the 
foundation  are  still  to  be  seen.  This  was  finished 
and  the  lumber  on  the  ground  for  the  superstructure 
when  Mrs.  Galland  was  taken  seriously  ill  and  he 
left  at  once  to  seek  medical  advice  for  her  in  St. 
Louis,  securing,  as  he  thought,  a  trusty  agent  to 
attend  to  his  business  and  also  to  superintend  the 
finishing  of  the  house  and  have  it  ready  for  us  at 
our  return. 

No  sooner  were  \ve  out  of  the  town  than  the 
agent  had  the  lumber  hauled  out  into  the  country 
some  four  or  five  miles  to  a  piece  of  land  that  he 
had  jumped,  put  it  up  and  moved  his  family  out 
there.  He  called  it  the  Hermitage  and  it  still  stands 
solitary  and  alone. 

Two  years  later  when  we  returned  the  agent 
met  us  at  the  wharf  and  invited  us  to  go  to  his 
country  place  till  my  uncle  could  procure  a  house. 
We  went  and  spent  two  pleasant  weeks  in  the  house 
which  should  have  l>een  our  own.  The  agent  meerly 
made  a  joke  of  the  transaction,  saying :  "Oh,  Doctor, 
we  did  not  expect  you  back  and  I  needed  it  badly," 
and  he  kept  it.  Possession  was  nine  points  of  the 


1 6        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

law  in  those  days  and  so  my  uncle  was  obliged  to 
buy  a  house  in  which  to  take  his  family.  This  was 
a  small  frame  cottage  on  First  street  between  Main 
and  Johnson  and  by  adding  a  few  rooms  we  had 
a  cosy  home,  with  a  flower  garden  in  front  where 
my  cousin  and  I  planted  and  tended  pretty  old- 
fashioned  flowers. 


I'c 1 1  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         17 


CHAPTER  1L 

RS  GAINES,  before  mentioned,  was 
a  well  known  character;  she  was 
a  New  Engand  woman  whose 
father  on  coming"  west  to  St. 
Louis  had  married  a  French 
woman  for  his  second  wife,  his 
daughter  thus  becoming  familiar 
with  French  customs.  She  came 
to  Keokuk  as  the  reputed  wife  of  John  Gaines,  who 
died  shortly  after,  leaving  her  alone  among  strang- 
ers quite  penniless  with  two  small  boys  by  her 
former  marriage.  She  was  obliged  to  do  something 
to  support  herself  and  them.  When  her  strenuous 
life  began  she  donned  turban  and  handkerchief  in 
imitation  of  French  women  and  went  to  cooking, 
keeping  boarders  and  managing  the  affairs  of  the 
town  to  such  an  extent  that  she  was  dubbed  the 
Mayor.  She  became  coarse  and  hard,  losing  the 
fair,  delicate  looks  of  her  youth,  took  to  swearing 
in  toth  French  and  English  toasting  she  would 
shoot  any  one  who  molested  her,  and  I  think  she 
would ;  at  any  rate  I  saw  her  chase  a  man  a  block 
with  an  old  pistol  which  had  neither  lock  or  barrel. 
The  men  were  all  afraid  of  her,  or  pretended  to  be, 
and  she  assumed  the  position  of  arbitrator  in  many 


iS         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  U'csteni  Days. 

of  the  disagreements  and  disputes  naturally  arising 
in  such  a  varied  population. 

We  boarded  with  her  and  I  knew  her  well  and 
liked  her  too,  for  she  was  very  kind  to  me  when 
my  aunt  was  so  ill.  There  was  a  most  wonderful 
loft  to  her  house  where  she  kindly  stored,  numerous 
things  belonging  to  my  aunt  and  many  of  my  child- 
ish toys ;  but  like  the  spider  and  the  fly,  whatever 
went  up  her  ladder  never  came  down  again.  This 
loft  was  also  packed  with  china  taking  a  few  pieces 
at  a  time  from  the  store  which  my  uncle  carried 
on,  where  he  kept  goods  far  in  advance  of  the  needs 
of  these  early  days.  Mrs.  Gaines  would  go  to  the 
store  half  a  block  from  her  house  and  fill  the  check 
apron  which  she  always  wore  and  walk  out,  while 
the  clerk.  Avers  by  name,  neither  stopped  or  re- 
ported her.  In  this  way  she  had  numerous  sets  of 
gold  band  china  to  give  to  her  friends,  some  of 
which  might  still  be  found  in  Keokuk. 

Early  in  September,  1840,  I  left  Keokuk  with 
my  aunt  and  uncle,  taking  the  steamboat  Rosalie 
for  St.  Louis,  from  there  going  on  to  Louisville, 
Kentucky,  where  we  remained  three  or  four  weeks, 
thence  proceeding  to  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  where  we 
arrived  just  when  the  Harrison  campaign  was  at 
its  height.  The  Henrie  House  where  we  stopped 
was  the  headquarters  of  the  Whig  party  in  that 
city,  where  politics  ran  very  high.  My  uncle  was 
a  staunch  Whig  and  from  hearing  almost  constant 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         19 

discussions  and  conversations  on  the  subject  I 
learned,  young  as  I  was,  much  about  the  different 
aims  and  issues  of  the  party.  We  remained  at  the 
hotel  until  after  the  presidential  election  when  we 
went  to  board  with  the  widow  of  Owen  Lo<vejoy, 
the  first  abolition  martyr,  who  was  killed  and  his 
printing  press  thrown  into  the  river  at  Alton,  111., 
for  advocating  the  abolition  of  slavery,  in  the  year 

1839- 

We  remained  with  Mrs.  Lovejoy  until  after  the 
election  returns  were  received.  Our  next  stop  was 
at  Chillicothe,  Ohio,  where  we  witnessed  a  grand 
parade  and  I  helped  illuminate  our  rooms  at  the 
hotel.  I  learned  many  campaign  songs,  one  of  which 
accurately  described  the  parade.  It  runs  thus : 

"There  were  steamboats  and  fortes  and  log  cabins 
And  then  a  great  Cleveland  brig,  too, 
All  drawn  on  wheels  by  fine  horses; 
Hurrah  for  old  Tippercanoe!" 
Hurrah  for  old  Tippecanoe!" 

Proceeding  on  to  Zanesville  we  saw  another 
parade  and  heard  Tom  Corwin,  a  noted  politician, 
deliver  an  address.  He  was  known  as  the  Wag- 
goner boy  and  his  rostrum  was  a  lumber  wagon. 

We  were  joined  at  Chillicothe  by  my  uncle's  two 
children,  a  boy  of  fourteen  and  a  girl  of  twelve 
years  of  age.  Going  on  to  Akron,  Ohio,  we  three 
were  placed  at  school  making  our  home  with  my 
grandmother  at  an  old  stone  mansion  on  the  farm 
which  once  belonged  to  my  grandfather,  now  the 


20        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

site  of  Perkins  park  in  that  city.  We  remained 
there  two  years,  my  aunt  and  uncle  traveling-  most 
of  the  time. 

In  the  autumn  of  1842,  my  uncle  having-  fin- 
ished the  business  in  which  he  was  engaged  and  my 
aunt  being  quite  restored  to  health,  they  decided 
to  return  to  Keokuk  and  occupy  the  home  which 
they  supposed  was  waiting  for  them.  As  we  were 
quite  a  good  sized  family,  my  uncle  purchased  a 
canal  boat  and  fitted  it  up  with  the  contents  of  his 
house,  a  complete  outfit  of  beautiful  mahogany  fur- 
niture for  parlor,  dining  room  and  l^ed  rooms,  to- 
gether with  a  well-stocked  larder  and  kitchen,  and 
employing  an  experienced  pilot  and  taking  my 
aunt's  efficient  housekeeper  and  cook,  we  started  on 
the  return  journey.  Our  boat  was  to  be  towed 
by  horses  down  the  Ohio  canal  to  a  point  near  Pitts- 
burg  where  we  would  come  into  the  Ohio  river, 
thence  floating  down  to  Cairo;  from  there  we  were 
to  be  towed  by  steamboat  up  the  Mississippi  to 
Keokuk.  A  fine  plan  had  it  been  earlier  in  the  sea- 
son, but  all  together  a  very  slow  mode  of  travel 
for  a  journey  of  fourteen  hundred  and  fifty-three 
miles  with  the  winter  in  prospect. 

The  trip  clown  the  canal  was  delightful  in  the 
lovely  September  days,  loitering  on  the  green  banks, 
riding  the  horses  and  stopping  at  all  of  the  villages, 
while  on  coming  into  the  river  it  was  equally  en- 
joyable. We  saw  many  places  of  interest,  which 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         21 

were  rendered  doubly  so  when  my  uncle  described 
them  to  us  as  they  were  in  his  boyhood  which  was 
passed  at  Marietta,  Ohio.  Among  them  was  Blen- 
nerhassett's  island  where  we  spent  most  of  a  day 
in  rambling-  over  the  once  magnificent  estate.  There 
were  still  standing  the  tall  stone  gate  posts  of  the 
entrance  to  the  grounds.  The  ruins  of  the  mansion 
were  now  overgrown  with  vines  and  sapplings  and 
we  drank  from  the  old  well  which  still  yielded  good 
water,  while  my  uncle  described  its  glories  as  he 
remembered  them  before  Aaron  Burr  wrought  the 
ruin  of  the  ambitious  Frenchman  and  his  beautiful 
wife. 

All  this  was  most  interesting  to  me,  for,  as  my 
grandmother  had  told  me,  and  which  is  now  a  matter 
of  history,  it  was  into  the  hands  of  my  great-grand- 
father, James  Pritchard  of  Jefferson  county,  Ohio, 
who  was  Speaker  of  the  Senate,  that  the  proofs  of 
the  treasonable  plot  gotten  up  by  Aaron  Burr  assisted 
by  Herman  Blennerhassett,  which  was  said  to  be 
backed  by  foreign  powers  were  given;  and  it  was 
with  his  aid  and  that  of  Abram  Shepherd  of  Adams 
county,  Speaker  of  the  House,  that  Governor  Tiffin 
was  enabled  to  quell  the  rebellion  and  cause  the 
arrest  of  the  leaders  before  the  trouble  became 
known  at  Washington. 

Floating  slowly  down  the  river,  it  was  late  in 
October  when  we  reached  Cincinnati  where  we 
should  have  been  earlv  in  the  month.  Quite  an 


22         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

exciting  episode  occurred  on  the  morning  of  our 
arrival  there.  A  passing  steamboat  caused  a  heavy 
swell  of  waves  when  by  some  mismanagement  of 
the  pilot  our  little  craft  fell  into  the  trough  of  the 
river  causing  it  to  roll  so  badly  that  it  came  near 
capsizing.  We  passengers  and  the  furniture  were 
thrown  about  in  dire  confusion,  and  although  none 
of  us  were  injured  it  was  not  a  pleasant  experience. 
My  uncle  was  so  disgusted  that  on  reaching  Cin- 
cinnati he  sold  the  small  boat  in  which  we  had  been 
so  comfortable  to  the  first  customer  and  engaged 
our  passage  to  St.  Louis  on  the  steamboat  Raritan. 
The  weather  had  turned  intensely  cold  and  on 
reaching  Cairo  we  found  the  Mississippi  so  full  of 
floating  ice  that  our  progress  was  very  slow,  and 
the  night  of  our  arrival  at  St.  Louis  the  river  be- 
came completely  blocked.  This  changed  our  plans 
entirely  and  compelled  us  to  remain  there  for  the 
winter.  My  uncle  at  once  rented  a  house  and  placed 
us  children  at  school. 

After  an  absence  of  two  years  I  returned  to 
Keokuk  with  my  uncle's  family  as  before  stated,  and 
for  several  years  knew7  all  about  the  place,  being  of 
an  inquiring  mind  and  good  memory.  We  left  St. 
Louis  on  the  first  boat  up  in  the  spring,  were  nearly 
a  week  on  the  way,  arriving  here  on  the  first  day  of 
April.  The  river  was  barely  opened,  the  ice  being 
packed  almost  to  the  middle.  We  were  obliged  to 
walk  quite  a  distance  before  reaching  the  shore. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        23 

CHAPTER  III. 

ANY  changes  had  taken  place  and 
the  village  was  fast  developing 
into  a  town.  The  Mackinaw 
boats  of  the  French  and  the 
canoe  of  the  Indian  had  given 
place  to  elegant  steamboats.  A 
system  of  lighting  had  been  es- 
tablished and  boats  could  now 
have  their  cargo  transferred  around  the  rapids 
by  loading  it  into  barges  which  were  towed  up 
along  the  shore  with  horses,  and  re-loading  at  Mont- 
rose,  thus  enabling  more  rapid  transportation. 
Large  quantities  of  freight  were  handled  in  this 
way,  there  being  no  other  means  of  moving  it  except 
by  wagons.  Often  steamboats  would  get  fast  on 
the  rapids  and  remain  for  many  days  and  it  was 
a  dangerous  task  to  get  them  loose  from  the  rocks. 

Numerous  houses  had  been  built  and  the  town 
was  creeping  up  the  hill.  Roth  Main  and  Johnson 
streets  had  houses  between  First  and  Water  streets, 
but  as  yet  there  were  none  up  as  far  as  Second. 
Lyman  E.  Johnston  was  then  building  the  hewed  log 
house  on  Johnson  street  which  so  mysteriously  dis- 
appeared last  year,  soon  moving  into  it  with  his 
family,  his  wife  and  daughter  Sarah  Marinda,  who 
was  my  best  friend. 


24         7V//  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

In  June,  1845,  this  cabin  was  sold  to  Charles 
Ivins  who  weather-boarded  and  remodeled  it,  build- 
ing- a  small  brick  addition.  Later  Charles  Ivins 
sold  it  to  Hugh  Doran,  who  was  the  cashier  in  the 
Pioneer  Bank  established  by  George  C.  Anderson 
about  1845.  Doran  died  there,  after  occupying  it 
for  several  years,  then  the  place  went  to  ruin  and 
now  only  a  few  stones  mark  the  spot  of  the  once 
cosy  home. 

About  1843  Lyman  E.  Johnston  built  a  brick 
house  on  Second  and  Main  and  a  year  later  Daniel 
Hine  one  on  Second  and  Blondeau  streets.  These 
were  the  first  brick  houses,  the  material  being 
brought  from  Nauvoo  in  flat  boats. 

The  cabin  of  Louise  Hood,  the  only  daughter 
of  Dr.  Samuel  Muir,  was  situated  on  Bank  street 
near  the  corner  of  Second.  Poor  Louise  had  a 
checkered  career.  Dr.  Muir  and  my  father  were 
warm  friends  and  his  daughter  gave  me  her  own 
history.  Dr.  Muir  was  a  Scotchman,  educated  at 
the  University  of  Edinburgh,  who  on  coming  to 
America  obtained  a  position  as  surgeon  in  the 
United  States  Army,  and  was  stationed  at  Fort 
Edwards  during  the  Black  Hawk  war.  After  com- 
ing west  he  married  an  Indian  woman  and  had  two 
children  of  whom  he  was  devotedly  fond,  James 
and  Louise.  His  resignation  from  the  army  was 
caused  by  an  order  from  the  War  Department  pro- 
hibiting the  officers  from  retaining  their  Indian 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        25 

wives.  Placing  his  daughter  in  the  care  of  Mrs. 
Mark  Aldrich  at  Warsaw,  after  providing  for  her 
maintenance  and  education,  he  took  his  son  and 
went  west  to  the  Missouri  river.  I  do  not  know 
that  he  ever  returned  to  Keokuk.  His  daugh- 
ter told  me  that  they  both  died  out  west. 

Louise  made  her  home  with  Mrs.  Aldrich  till 
she  was  grown  becoming  quite  well  educated  and 
very  much  of  a  lady,  moving  in  the  best  circles  of 
the  place.  At  the  age  of  sixteen  she  married  Amos 
Van  Ausdol  coming  to  Keokuk  to  live.  Eleven 
months  after  their  marriage  Van  Ausdol  died  leav- 
ing his  wife  a  posthumous  child,  and  in  most  desti- 
tute circumstances.  Being  unable  to  support  the 
child,  she  gave  it  to  her  husband's  sister  who  after- 
wards disowned  her  on  account  of  her  Indian  blood, 
and  she  was  utterly  friendless.  In  desperation  she 
married  Alex.  Hood  who  abused  her  terribly.  She 
gave  birth  to  an  idiot  child,  and  Hood  was  killed 
in  a  drunken  brawl,  leaving  her  worse  off  than  be- 
fore. In  her  loneliness  and  despair  she  fell  a  prey 
to  evil.  Augustus  Gonzega,  a  half  breed  who  lived 
at  her  house,  became  her  friend  and  they  were  to 
have  been  married;  but  fate  seemed  to  be  against 
her  for  he  was  taken  very  ill  and  died  without  the 
ceremony  being  performed.  She  was  the  owner  of 
two  full  shares  of  half-breed  land,  her  brother  being 
dead.  This  consisted  of  twenty-four  town  lots  and 
an  undivided  share  m  one  hundred  and  nineteen 


26         /V/f  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

thousand  acres  of  land,  but  no  money  or  where  to 
lay  her  head.  The  land  sharks  who  were  grabbing 
all  the  half-breed  land  they  could  get  hold  of,  in- 
duced her  to  sell  her  shares  for  a  mere  song;  and 
after  a  long  life  of  toil  and  poverty  she  died  in 
1882,  leaving  her  demented  daughter  a  heritage  to 
the  county.  She  was  our  laundress  for  many  years, 
so  I  knew  all  about  her.  My  uncle  and  aunt  be- 
friended her  many  times  when  she  was  in  trouble. 


K 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        27 

CHAPTER  IV. 

ORTH  of  Keokuk  extending  quite 
to  the  head  of  the  rapids  was  a 
dense  growth  of  immense  sugar 
maple  trees,  tall  and  straight. 
Numerous  sugar  camps  were 
carried  on  in  the  late  winter  and 
early  spring  and  large  quantities 
of  sugar  were  made,  by  both  In- 
dians and  white  people.  Any  one  could  go  out  and 
select  a  camp  for  themselves  and  occupy  the  same 
from  year  to  year.  Madam  St.  Amant's  camp 
was  a  favorite  resort  in  sugar ing'-off  time.  It  was 
just  where  the  electric  light  plant  is  now  situated. 
One  year  my  uncle,  Franklin  Wilcox,  located  a 
camp  and  made  over  three  hundred  pounds  of  sugar 
besides  almost  a  barrel  of  syrup. 

The  road  to  Montrose  led  up  under  the  trees 
which  grew  along  the  shore,  almost  to  the  water's 
edge,  a  fine  gravelly  road  with  beautiful  shade.  It 
was  a  favorite  resort  for  horseback  riding-  parties 
which  were  very  fashionable  at  that  time. 

The  pioneer  church  of  the  village  was  of  course 
Roman  Catholic.  A  lot  had  been  given  on  the  cor- 
ner of  Blondeau  and  Second  streets,  upon  which 
to  build  a  church;  meantime  a  small  house  of  two 
rooms  \vas  put  up  on  the  corner  of  the  lot  at  the 


28         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  J^ays. 

rear  and  here  masses  were  said,  one  of  the  rooms 
heing  fitted  up  as  a  chapel,  the  priest  living  in 
the  other.  Weddings  were  also  solemnized  in  the 
small  chapel,  one  of  which  I  attended,  that  of  Eliz- 
abeth  Hunt  and  Henry  Louis,  my  cousin  and  my- 
self being  the  only  witnesses.  Elizabeth  was  a 
member  of  our  family.  Dr.  G.  Walter  Barr  has 
given  the  story  of  their  romance  as  I  gave  it  to  him, 
in  his  story,  "The  Victory  of  the  Valliant,"  in  Suc- 
cess for  September,  1904,  with  few  alterations. 

The  lots  surrounding  the  church  were  used  as 
a  cemetery.  On  one  occasion  twenty-five  men  were 
buried  there  who  were  killed  by  the  explosion  of  the 
steamboat  Mechanic  in  her  endeavors  to  get  off  a 
large  rock  in  the  first  chain  of  the  rapids,  from 
which  circumstance  it  took  the  name  of  Mechanic 
rock. 

The  priest  was  an  elegant  man,  a  native  French- 
man, most  zealous  in  his  work,  preaching  in  both 
French  and  English,  and  was  building  the  church 
with  his  own  hands!  I  well  remember  seeing  him 
at  work  on  the  roof  in  hot  July  days  w-ith  his  long* 
coat  closely  buttoned  to  the  chin.  My  uncle  and 
he  were  warm  friends.  He  was  a  frequent  visitor 
at  our  house  and  a  most  welcome  guest. 

Meetings  of  other  denominations  were  held  in  a 
log  school  house  on  the  corner  of  Third  and  John- 
son streets,  where  my  young  ideas  were  beginning 
to  shoot,  and  where  at  the  same  school,  which  was 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         29 

taught  by  a  man  by  the  name  of  Fletcher,  were  boys 
who  as  men  became  prominent  in  the  affairs  of  the 
town.  Among  these  I  recall  George  E.  and  Henry 
Kilbourne,  James  Daugherty,  William  Oldenburg, 
Edward  Brown,  Valencourt  Stilhvell.  Of  girls 
there  were  Margaret  Stilhvell,  Sarah  Marinda  John- 
stone,  Zilpha  Pooler,  Amarilla  McCain  and  Mar- 
garet Billings.  I  only  remember  the  name  of  one 
preacher  and  that  was  Pliny  Hatchet  who  was  an 
elder  of  the  Campbellite  church,  as  they  were  then 
called.  The  ministers  were  itinerant,  mostly  Meth- 
odist and  Christian. 

The  choir  for  all  these  meetings  was  composed 
of  the  Wycoff  family,  the  father  and  five  or  six 
white  haired  urchins,  to  which  I  always  added  my 
voice,  not  wishing  to  be  outdone  or  take  a  back 
seat. 

The  postoffice  was  established  about  1848  or 
1849.  At  the  time  of  which  I  write  L.  B.  Fleck  was 
postmaster.  It  was  kept  in  a  frame  building  on  the 
corner  of  First  and  Johnson  streets  and  with  it  was 
also  carried  on  a  general  store.  I  remember  paying 
there  a  very  precious  quarter  of  a  dollar  for  the  first 
letter  I  ever  received;  postage  was  somewhat  of  an 
item  then. 

The  first  Fourth  of  July  celebration  in  the  vil- 
lage was  that  of  1843.  The  citizens  built  an  harbor 
on  First  street,  extending  north  from  the  postoffice 
about  seventy  feet,  under  which  was  set  a  long  table, 


30        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Da\s. 

All  sorts  of  provisions  were  contributed,  an  ox  was 
roasted  and  sumptuous  dinner  served  to  all 
who  would  partake.  Cannon  were  fired,  spread-eagle 
speeches  were  made  and  the  military  company  got- 
ten up  for  the  occasion  marched  to  the  music  of 
fife  and  drum  with  eagles  in  their  eyes,  firing  my 
youthful  heart  with  patriotism.  The  dear  old  flag 
was  drawn  to  the  top  of  a  tall  liberty  pole  which 
blossomed  like  Aaron's  rod  in  its  unfurling.  A 
great  bonfire  was  lighted  as  the  sun  went  down  and 
the  day  closed  in  a  blaze  of  glory. 

About  the  year  1840  was  erected  the  Rapids 
Hotel  on  Water  street  at  the  foot  of  Blondeau.  By 
some  mismanagement  it  was  placed  directly  in  the 
middle  of  the  street,  a  two  story  building  with  long 
porches  facing  the  river.  The  hotel  was  kept  by 
William  Coleman  whose  wife  was  a  relative  of  D. 
W.  Kilbourne.  It  was  here  that  the  memorable 
champagne  supper  and  party  were  given  by  Henry 
DeLouis  on  the  occasion  of  his  marriage  to  Eliza- 
beth Hunt,  which  cost  the  poor  Frenchman  all  the 
money  he  possessed. 

The  topography  of  the  place  has  been  entirely 
changed  by  the  grading  of  the  streets  and  cutting 
down  of  the  hills,  so  that  an  old  settler  looking  over 
Keokuk  would  scarcely  be  able  to  recognize  the 
place.  There  was  a  deep  ravine  running  directly 
across  Main  street  near  Ninth  street,  dividing  the 
town  in  two,  over  which  was  a  wide  bridge.  The 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        31 

west  end  was  called  Cataragus.  The  hills  near  the 
river  have  also  been  graded  and  cut  down  many 
feet.  The  drive  now  known  as  Grand  avenue 
wound  around  the  edge  of  the  bluff  commanding  a 
magnificent  view,  which  is  now  considered  one  of 
the  finest  on  the  Mississippi  river. 

One  of  the  most  interesting-  and  beautiful  local- 
ities in  the  old  days  was  the  Painted  Rocks,  which 
have  never  been  written  of  and  which  no  one  seems 
to  remember.  Beginning-  at  the  foot  of  Johnson 
and  Water  streets  was,  and  still  is,  a  low  bluff  some 
seventy-five  feet  in  height  extending  down  the 
river  for  half  a  mile.  It  was  quite  perpendicular  on 
the-  river  side,  with  a  smooth  face  of  white  lime- 
stone, the  entire  surface  of  which  was  covered  with 
pictures  painted  in  bright  colors  of  men,  beasts  and 
birds  with  hieroglyphics  running  through  it  all, 
seeming  to  tell  a  story  of  long  forgotten  days.  It 
was  never  deciphered  and  the  Indians  knew  nothing 
about  it.  Wind  and  weather  had  no  effect  upon 
it,  but  the  hand  of  man  soon  spoiled  its  beauty 
when  stone  was  needed  for  improvement  although 
there  was  plenty  to  be  had  in  other  localities.  In 
high  water  the  waves  washed  the  base  of  the  bluff 
but  generally  there  was  a  fine  pebbly  beach  with  an 
occasional  bolder;  it  was  a  lovely  spot,  a  favorite 
resort  of  the  citizens  on  summer  evenings.  Many 
times  I  have  strolled  along  the  smooth  shore  with  my 
aunt  and  cousin  and  watched  the  moon  rise  over  the 


32        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

Illinois  hills  making  a  path  of  glory  across  the  dear 
old  river.  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  bluff  was 
very  fine.  Many  of  the  earlier  residents  had  homes 
in  that  part  of  town  which  was  then  quite  aristo- 
cratic. This  is  the  place  which  was  talked  of  for 
a  park,  but  it  can  never  again  regain  its  old  time 
l>eauty  for  the  painted  rocks  are  gone  forever. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        33 


CHAPTER  V. 

1843  the  last  large  band  of  In- 
dians, about  fifty  in  number,  came 
to  Keokuk  on  their  way  to  Indian 
Territory,  having  been  ordered 
there  by  the  government.  There 
were  six  or  seven  braves  who 
stayed  at  my  uncle's  house,  he 
furnishing  them  with  meals  and 
his  office  in  which  to  sleep,  where  they  rolled  them- 
selves up  in  their  blankets  on  the  floor.  They  were 
extremely  fond  of  coffee  which  my  aunt  had  served 
to  them  in  bowls  as  best  suiting  their  appetites. 
These  braves  were  on  their  way  to;  St.  Louis  to  re- 
ceive their  annuities,  leaving  the  larger  part  of  the 
band,  mostly  old  men,  squaws  and  pappooses,  at  the 
camp  which  they  had  made  on  the  present  site  of  the 
golf  ground.  After  an  absence  of  a  week  the 
braves  returned  and  made  ready  to  resume  their 
journey  with  their  ponies  and  camping  outfit.  Some 
of  the  citizens  were  desirous  of  having  them  give  a 
war  dance  before  they  departed,  which  at  my 
uncle's  earnest  request  they  consented  to  do.  The 
then  vacant  lots  at  the  corner  of  First  and  Johnson 
streets  were  selected  as  the  place  to  hold  the  pow- 
wow. Boxes  and  barrels  and  other  inflammable  ma- 
terials were  piled  high  for  a  huge  bonfire.  The  day 


34        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

was  spent  by  the  braves  in  making  preparations  for 
the  great  event,  in  painting  their  faces,  necks  and 
arms  with  bright  colored  paints,  braiding  their  hair 
and  otherwise  decorating  their  heads.  By  sundown 
they  were  quite  gorgeous,  seeming  greatly  pleased 
with  the  result  of  their  labors,  while  all  the  band 
came  in  either  to  see  or  take  part ;  the  entire  popula- 
tion of  the  villages  were  there  as  spectators.  When 
it  was  quite  dark  the  fire  was  lighted  and  the  ex- 
ercises began.  First  smoking  the  pipe  of  peace  and 
shaking  hands  all  around  in  token  of  friendship,  at 
a  sign  from  their  leader  they  dashed  madly  into 
the  circle  with  whoops  and  contortions  and  most 
violent  leaping  and  dancing,  while  their  companions 
beat  upon  anything  to  add  to  the  din.  As  the 
fire  grew  brighter  their  dancing  became  almost 
fierce,  but  when  it  began  to  die  down  their  spirits 
seemed  to  ebb  with  it,  and  later  in  the  darkness  they 
quietly  stole  away. 

The  next  morning  they  made  ready  to  resume 
their  long  and  toilsome  journey.  Going  upon  the 
bluff  they  gazed  long  with  sad  faces  at  hill,  river 
and  woodland,  seeming  to  bid  farewell  to  their  loved 
hunting  ground.  Then  with  a  lingering  grasp  of 
the  hand  to  their  kind  friend  and  with  tears  stream- 
ing down  their  cheeks,  they  walked  steadily  out 
toward  their  waiting  companions  and  started  upon 
their  journey  toward  the  setting  sun. 

Years  have  passed  since  then,  and  the  march  of 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         35 

of  improvement  has  transformed  the  little  hamlet 
•into  the  prosperous  city,  but  the  picture  of  the  red 
men  is  indelibly  impressed  upon  my  memory,  and 
sympathy  for  them  still  lives  in  my  heart,  while  I 
look  with  love  and  pride  upon  the  home  of  my 
childhood  which  was  once  so  dear  to  them. 

As  a  natural  consequence,  owing  to  the  unsettled 
state  of  affairs,  rowdyism  and  dishonesty  were  ram- 
pant and  Keokuk  bore  an  unenviable  reputation. 
As  an  excuse  for  their  evil  doings  a  vigilance  com- 
mittee was  organized  among  the  frequenters  of  the 
small  saloons  which  had  sprung  up  on  the  levee, 
headed  by  one  Dr.  Hogan,  a  protege  of  Mrs. 
Gaines,  with  the  avowed  object  of  protecting  the 
citizens  but  in  reality  for  quite  the  reverse.  No 
one's  affairs  was  exempt  from  their  interference  and 
an  almost  unbearable  state  of  things  existed.  On 
one  occasion  the  clothesline  of  L.  B.  Fleak  had  been 
robbed  of  the  week's  washing.  The  vigilants  went 
to  \vork  ostensibly  to  ferret  out  the  offender.  Sev- 
eral different  parties  were  accused  of  the  theft  but 
proved  their  innocence.  At  this  juncture  a  man 
from  some  where  up  the  country  came  to  town  on 
his  way  to  St.  Louis.  He  was  at  once  pointed  out 
as  the  criminal  and  notified  to  leave  town  before 
sundown  or  be  lynched  that  night. 

Dr.  Galland,  who  was  not  at  all  in  sympathy 
with  the  vigilants,  decided  to  protect  the  stranger; 
accordingly  he  hunted  up  the  man  who  was  walking 


36         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  IT  ester  n  Days. 

on  the  bank  of  the  river  looking-  anxiously  for  a 
steamboat.  The  Doctor  accosted  him,  saying*: 
"My  friend,  do  you  know  that  you  are  suspected  of 
being  a  thief  and  in  danger  of  being  horsewhipped 
tonight?"  The  man  replied  :  "Yes,  but  1  only  came 
to  the  town  this  morning  and  I  am  perfectly  inno- 
cent;  what  can  I  do  to  protect  myself?"  It  was 
then  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  "Well,"  said 
my  uncle,  "I  can  only  give  you  a  roll  or  carpet  on 
which  to  sleep,  but  if  you  wish  to  go  home  with 
me  I  will  protect  you  till  morning  when  there  will 
probably  be  a  boat  here."  The  man  very  gladly  ac- 
cepted the  kind  offer  and  came  home  with  my  uncle 
who  told  my  aunt  what  he  had  done  and  that  there 
might  be  trouble.  The  house  was  not  finished,  only 
t\\o  rooms  being'  ready  for  occupancy  and  there 
were  quite  a  number  of  steps  up  to  the  front  door. 
As  night  came  on  my  uncle  sent  his  son  down  to 
the  levee,  headquarters  of  the  gang,  to  reconnoiter ; 
returning  he  reported  great  excitement  and  threats 
of  vengeance  against  Dr.  Galland  for  interfering 
in  their  proposed  sport;  that  thirty  or  forty  men 
were  coming  up  to  take  the  man  or  tear  the  house 
down  in  the  attempt. 

^Ye  children  were  sent  into  the  back  room,  the 
door  being  left  open  so  we  could  see  what  was  going 
on.  There  was  no  light  in  the  house  it  being  a 
beautiful  moonlight  night.  My  uncle  took  his  posi- 
tion on  the  highest  step  at  the  front  door,  my 


/V/7  Pictures  of  Early  I}7 extern  Days.         37 

aunt    stood   1)eside   with   the   stranger   just   inside 
ci .waiting  developments. 

About  nine  o'clock  a  crowd  of  men  appeared 
coming  up  First  from  Main  street,  armed  with 
pikes  and  grapling  hooks  to  demolish  the  small 
house  if  necessary.  Arriving*  at  the  front  of  the 
house  they  halted  and  for  a  few  minutes  there  was 
a  dead  silence ;  then  the  leader,  Dr.  Hogan,  said : 
"Dr.  Galland,  we  have  come  for  that  scoundrel  you 
have  here."  "Well/'  replied  the  doctor,  "there  is  a 
man  here  who  says  he  had  only  been  in  town  a  day  and 
is  perfectly  innocent  of  what  you  accuse  him ;  I  be- 
lieve he  is,  and  I  propose  to  protect  him  till  morn- 
ing when  he  will  go  on  his  way.  It  is  an  outrage 
for  you  to  punish  him  without  reliable  evidence. 
If  you  want  him  you  will  have  to>  come  and  take 
him,  but  I  warn  you  that  the  first  man  who  enters 
this  house  it  will  be  over  my  dead  body."  And  im- 
mediately he  took  out  his  revolver  and  an  immense 
bowie  knife  and  flashed  it  in  the  moonlight.  There 
was  a  short  consultation  in  low  tones  when  the 
spokesman  said :  "Well,  doctor,  we  do  not  want 
to  harm  you  but  have  come  for  that  man  and  must 
have  him."  "Very  well,"  replied  the  doctor,  "come 
and  get  him."  And  then  he  proceeded  to  give  them 
a  piece  of  his  mind,  and  as  his  command  of  lan- 
guage was  proverbial  they  received  the  full  benefit. 
He  then  asked  for  some  of  the  ring  leaders  in  the 
committee  but  most  of  them  had  fallen  by  the  way- 


38         /V;/  lectures  of  Earl\  Western  Days. 

side  on  the  march  up.  He  then  gave  them  some 
more  plain  English  and  while  he  berated  them  they 
began  one  by  one  to  slink  away  and  shortly  the 
handful  left  went  back  to  their  lair  more  rapidly 
than  they  came. 

As  they  went  out  of  sight  the  house  was  shut 
up,  the  man  given  his  roll  of  carpet  and  the  family 
went  to  bed  and  slept  the  sleep  of  the  just.  The  next 
morning  a  boat  came,  my  uncle  escorted  the 
stranger  to  it  and  he  went  on  his  way  rejoicing. 
But  the  end  was  not  yet. 

There  was  resident  in  town  just  one  negro 
named  John  who  had  been  a  slave  belonging  to  a 
wealthy  farmer  in  Missouri  by  the  name  of  Mitchell. 
John  was  a  most  reliable  negro.  He  had  bought 
his  freedom  from  his  former  master  and  had  about 
six  hundred  dollars  laid  by  in  his  trunk  with  which 
to  buy  his  wife.  The  vigilants  at  once  turned  their 
attention  to  John  as  he  seemed  easy  prey,  accusing 
him  of  the  theft  and  ordering  him  to  leave  town ; 
his  trunk  was  searched  and  his  money  taken  and 
the  poor  negro  was  in  terrible  straits.  One  evening 
my  uncle  walked  down  to  the  levee,  not  knowing 
of  the  trouble  till  he  reached  the  scene,  where  he 
found  Dr.  Hogan  horsewhipping  John  with  the 
crowd  looking  on,  not  one  lifting  a  hand  to  protect 
him.  My  uncle  always  carried  a  stout  cane  and 
he  immediately  stepped  up  to  Hogan  and  began 
laying  it  on  most  vigorously,  ordering  him  to  let  the 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        39 

poor  negro  alone.  No  one  came  to  the  rescue  of 
the  ruffian  and  he  for  once  in  his  life  received  a 
merited  punishment.  After  giving  him  a  severe 
chastisement  Dr.  Galland  talked  long  and  earnestly 
to  the  men,  telling  them  what  a  bad  reputation  the 
place  was  having  abroad  from  such  outrages,  and 
appealing  to  their  better  nature  to  redeem  them- 
selves and  help  build  up  a  town  in  which  it  would 
be  a  pride  and  pleasure  to  live.  That  he  wished 
to  live  amicably  with  his  neighbors,  but  did  not 
intend  to  stand  by  and  witness  any  more  such  out- 
rages, that  there  were  other  means  to  deal  with 
offenders  besides  lynching,  but  if  it  was  to  be  a 
constant  fight  he  proposed  to  take  a  hand.  There 
was  no  more  lynching,  but  threats  of  vengence 
against  Dr.  Galland  were  like  mutterings  of  distant 
thunder  that  did  not  materialize.  Poor  John,  how- 
ever, left  town  the  next  day  carrying  an  empty 
trunk. 


|<>         I'm  /V////v.v  of  Early  U'rslcrn  Hays. 
CHAPTER  VI. 


S  yet  there  had  been  no  division  of 
the    half    breed    land    and    the 
titles  being  in  such  an  unsettled 
state     caused     untold     trouble. 
Each  half-breed  owning  an  un- 
divided interest,   which  in  their 
ignorance    or     dishonesty    they 
sold  repeatedly  to  different  peo- 
ple, creating  great  confusion  and  endless  litigation. 
Many  people  had  settled  on  the  land  hoping  to  get 
a  good  title  later. 

The  Decree,  a  plan  for  dividing  the  land,  had 
been  gotten  up,  but  the  settlers  and  those  left  out 
of  the  Decree  on  one  side,  and  those  favoring  the 
Decree  on  the  other,  were  in  a  constant  state  of  tur- 
moil, and  as  a  consequence  much  enmity  existed. 

In  an  effort  to  ameliorate  the  conditions  com- 
missioners were  appointed,  who  upon  not  receiving 
their  salaries,  sued  the  owners  of  the  land  and  ob- 
tained a  judgment  against  the  whole  half-breed 
tract,  some  one  hundred  and  nineteen  thousand 
acres.  This  judgment  was  sold  to  Hugh  T.  Reid 
who  in  attempting  to  enforce  his  claims  received 
some  pretty  rough  treatment.  On  one  occasion  he 
was  chased  into  the  Des'  Moines  river  and  came 
near  drowning,  but  was  rescued  and  rode  into  Keo- 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        41 

kuk  hatless  with  his  coat  torn  from  his  hack.  Ex- 
citement ran  high,  mass  meetings  were  held  and 
money  contributed  to  oppose  the  Decree  in  the 
courts  hut  without  avail,  and  it  was  ratified  by  their 
decision  in  1841.  This  settled  the  titles  and  quieted 
the  trouble  to  a  certain  extent.  Much  money  was 
paid  to  different  parties  to  prevent  them  from  bring- 
ing lawsuits  to  enforce  their  claims,  but  the  half- 
breed  ghost,  as  some  one  has  called  it,  would  not 
down  for  years. 

So  much  litigation  naturally  attracted  lawyers 
and  the  place  became  noted  for  the  remarkable  abil- 
ity of  the  members  of  that  profession,  many  of 
whom  became  prominent  in  the  affairs  of  the  nation ; 
and  we  refer  with  pride  to  such  men  as  Gen.  S.  R. 
Curtis,  Judge  Samuel  F.  Miller,  Gen.  John  W. 
Noble,  George  W.  McCrary,  Maj.  John  W.  Rankin, 
I.  G.  Wickersham,  Gen.  William  W.  Belknap,  Judge 
James  M.  Love  and  Judge  George  H.  Williams,  be- 
sides many  others,  some  of  whom  made  out  their 
first  briefs  in  the  courts  of  Lee  county. 

The  medical  profession  was  also  well  repre- 
sented by  skillful  practitioners,  earliest  among  them 
being  Dr.  Isaac  Galland,  Dr.  F.  M.  Collins,  Drs. 
Hover  and  Hains,  and  a  few  years  later  Dr.  John 
F.  Sanford  who  first  established  the  Keokuk  Med- 
ical College  in  1849,  an(l  a  >'ear  ^ater  Drs.  McGugin 
and  J.  C.  Hughes. 

The  mercantile  business  was  represented  by  mer« 


42         /Y;/  I'ictnres  of  Earl\  }}'cstern  Davs. 

of  honor  and  integrity.  Abram  Chittenden  and 
William  McGavic  were- the  pioneers,  to  be  closely 
followed  by  Ainsworth  £  Dierdorf,  and  C.  Garber. 

There  were  few  advantages  here  aside  from  the 
district  school.  Meantime,  I  had  attended  one  of 
these  taught  by  Mrs.  Morgan  Anderson,  the  wife 
of  the  Sheriff,  on  Main  near  Third ;  also  one  taught 
by  George  A.  Hawley  at  the  head  of  High  and 
First  streets,  where  I  never  tired  of  feasting  my 
eyes  on  the  magnificent  view  from  this  point. 

In  June,  1845,  I  was  sent  by  my  guardian,  Ben- 
jamin F.  Marsh,  of  Warsaw,  111.,  to  St.  Louis  where 
I  attended  Edgeworth  Seminary,  not  returning  to 
Keokuk  until  October,  1848. 

Remarkable  changes  had  taken  place,  and  in- 
stead of  the  small  town  I  had  left  was  quite  a  pre- 
tentious little  city.  There  had  been  built  numerous 
homes,  some  quite  elegant. 

The  Des  Moines '  Improvement  Company  had 
l>een  organized  bringing  to  the  town  such  men  as 
William  Leighten,  Guy  Wells,  William  Timberman, 
John  McCune  and  some  others.  Although  the  en- 
terprise was  not  a  success  they  made  their  homes 
in  Keokuk  ever  afterwards.  Several  of  them  built 
beautiful  houses  of  the  stone  taken  from  the  Des 
Moines  river  quarries;  namely,  Guy  Wells  one  on 
the  corner  of  Sixth  and  Timea  streets,  John  Mc- 
Cune one  on  Third  and  Franklin,  Gen.  S.  R.  Curtis, 
who  besides  being  a  talented  lawyer  was  interested 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        43 

in  this  improvement,  one  on  the  south  side  of  Sec- 
ond and  High  streets.  Rev.  Williams  had  also 
erected  the  stone  octagon  house  on  the  north  corner 
of  the  same  streets,  establishing  a  young  ladies'  sem- 
inary there;  later  it  was  sold  to  Mr.  X  t\  Davis  for 
a  residence.  C~*  &• 

Of  brick  houses  there  were  quite  a  number.  Ly- 
man  E.  Johnstone  had  erected  one  on  the  corner  of 
Second  and  Concert  streets,  William  McGavic  one 
near  the  corner  of  the  same  streets,  John  Cleghorn 
a  brick  on  Second  between  Blondeau  and  Concert, 
T.  W.  Claggett  one  on  the  corner  of  Third  and 
High,  Edward  Kilbourne  one  at  the  corner  of  Sec- 
ond and  Morgan,  Governor  Lowe  one  at  the  corner 
of  Third  and  Fulton,  General  Belknap  one  adjoin- 
ing, James  F.  Death  one  at  First  and  Exchange,  and 
Capt.  J.  C.  Ainsworth  a  brick  cottage  on  First 
street  between  Blondeau  and  concert. 

Of  frame  houses  there  were  quite  a  number. 
Dr.  E.  R.  Ford  had  put  up  a  very  pretty  Gothic 
cottage  on  Blondeau  between  Third  and  Fourth, 
Gen.  V.  P.  Van  Antwerp  one  on  High  between  the 
same  streets,  Dr.  J.  C.  Hughes  one  on  Second  and 
Exchange,  Dr.  Galland  one  on  Exchange,  General 
Bridgeman  one  on  First  and  High,  Ross  B.  Hughes 
one  at  First  and  Bank,  S.  F.  Miller  one  at  Third 
and  High,  A.  H.  Heaslip  a  brick  cottage  on  Second 
below  Timea,  and  H.  T.  Reid  had  not  only  moved 
his  family  here  from  Fort  Madison,  but  brought 


44         Pfn  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

his  house  also,  quite  a  good  sized  frame  of  two 
stories,  on  flat  boats  and  taken  it  up  to  the  corner 
of  Third  and  High  where  he  lived  in  it  for  several 
years,  until  judgment  titles  made  him  sufficiently 
wealthy  to  build  a  fine  brick  residence,  or  rather 
commence  one,  for  it  was  never  finished. 

The  Veranda,  a  large  brick  building,  was  erected 
on  Johnson  street  for  a  Court  House,  and  in  that 
the  Postoffice  was  located  with  Col.  William  Pat- 
terson as  postmaster.  On  Concert  street  was  built 
a  curious  frame  structure  by  Governor  Lowe  and 
a  man  by  the  name  of  Hummer,  the  plan  of  which 
was  said  to  be  given  by  spirits.  It  was  used  as  a 
residence  for  their  families,  for  a  Presbyterian 
church  on  Sundays,  and  for  spiritual  seances  during 
the  week,  with  a  resident  medium  named  Mary  Mar- 
grave who  made  some  wonderful  revelations. 

The  Market  House  was  sitated  on  Second  street, 
open  below  with  the  city  hall  above,  where  public 
meetings  were  held  as  well  as  public  entertainments. 
Two  or  three  churches  had  been  built:  A  Presby- 
terian on  the  alley  between  Blondeau  and  Concert  on 
Second,  and  a  Methodist  on  Fourth  and  Exchange. 

The  Rapids  Hotel  had  been  taken  clown  and  the 
material  sold  to  John  Burns  who  rebuilt  it  on  Blon- 
deau between  First  and  Second,  where  it  is  still 
standing.  Two  newspapers  were  being  published, 
the  Des  Moines  Valley  Whig,  edited  by  James  B. 
Howell,  and  the  Keokuk  Post,  by  a  man  named 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        45 

Reese.  There  were  two  drug  store,  one  kept  by 
Dr.  Boise  and  one  by  Mr.  Ayres  and  his  son  Horace 
Ay  res. 

The  hotels  were  also  two  in  number,  one  at  Fifth 
and  Main  kept  by  Mrs.  Giger;  and  the  fashionab/e 
hotel,  the  McFadclen  House,  kept  by  a  family  of 
that  name  on  Water  street  between  Main  and 
Johnson.  The  Laclede  Hotel  was  building  but 
was  not  opened  until  about  1850. 

Wholesale  stores  were  already  being  established, 
Cleghorn  &  Harrison,  and  Burns  &  .Rentgen  groc- 
ers ;  with  Cox  &  Shelly  in  dry  goods.  While  in 
retail  there  were  P.  D.  Foster  and  Samuel  Stark  - 
wather,  dry  goods,  and  S.  Hamill  grocers;  with 
Capt.  C.  F.  Conn,  Harry  Fulton  and  A.  H.  Heaslip 
clothiers.  And  pork  packing,  which  was  an  im- 
portant business,  had  as  representatives  J.  F.  Death 
and  Frank  Ray. 


46         7V//  Pictures  of  Early  }}'cstcrn  Days, 
CHAPTER  VII. 


HE  society  was  good  and  as  usual 
in  a  new  country  very  gay  with 
gallant  men  and  many  elegant 
women,  almost  every  state  in  the 
union  being  represented — men 
were  largely  preponderant.  Par- 
ties were  of  frequent  occurrence 
and  could  be  gotten  up  on  short 
notice  for  all  were  ready  for  fun  and  frolic.  And  in 
place  of  the  Frenchman  Cheney  who  played  for  the 
pioneers,  James  Orten,  familiarly  known  as  Jim, 
had  a  large  band  of  two  pieces,  himself  and  one 
other,  and  while  he  kept  time  with  his  foot  called 
off  figures,  for  in  those  days  the  waltz  or  gallop 
were  unknown  and  even  the  lancers  had  not  been 
introduced,  but  we  had  just  as  good  a  time  dancing 
quadrilles  with  such  figures  as  Do  Si  Ballanette, 
ladies  to  the  right,  and  the  Spanish  dance,  while  the 
parties  often  wound  up  with  Monie  Musk  or  Vir- 
ginia Reel.  It  might  1)e  going  back  somewhat  to 
relate  the  last  episode  in  the  life  of  poor  old  Cheney, 
the  fiddler,  well  known  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
where  he  was  an  important  personage,  making 
music  for  the  pioneer  dances.  He  lived  just  below 
Montbello  in  Illinois  and  when  wanted  at  the  Point 
would  cross  the  river  in  a  canoe,  which  was  often 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        47 

rather,  dangerous  for  a  sober  man,  which  he  some- 
times was  not.  One  night  there  was  a  party  at  Rat 
Row.  The  people  for  miles  around  were  invited. 
From  Warsaw  there  came  Major  and  Mrs.  Wilcox, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Aldrich,  Mr.  Montague  and  David 
Mathews,  making  the  trip  in  canoes  also. 

While  the  festivities  were  in  progress  a  dreadful 
thunder  storm  arose,  so  of  course  the  Warsaw  party 
stayed  all  night.  But  no  persuasion  could  induce 
Cheney  to  postpone  going  home  till  morning  as  he 
had  left  his  horse  hitched  just  across  the  river;  so 
in  the  midst  of  the  storm  he  put  off  on  his  dan- 
gerous trip.  Nothing  was  known  of  him  for  a 
week  or  two  afterwards  when  he  and  his  horse 
were  found  drowned  and  lodged  in  brush  and  drift 
wood  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river,  which  has  ever  since  been  called  Cheney 
creek. 

The  first  large  assembly  I  attended  after  my 
return,  was  the  Taylor  ball,  given  at  the  McFadden 
house  in  honor  of  the  election  of  Zachary  Taylor 
to  the  presidency.  It  was  a  most  elaborate  affair; 
the  ball  room  was  beautifully  decorated  and  the 
managers  sent  away  for  a  real  band.  The  toilets 
of  the  ladies  were  elegant  and  the  supper  sumptuous. 
We  danced  till  the  "wee  small  hours"  and  altogether 
it  was  an  event  to  be  remembered  with  pleasure. 
Five  different  men  invited  me  so  of  course  I  had 
a  grand  time.  I  even  remember  the  dress  I  wore 


48        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

on  the  occasion — a  white  suisse,  low  neck  and  short 
sleeves,  with  rosebuds  in  my  hair.  My  aunt  said 
I  looked  real  nice,  which  was  the  highest  compli- 
ment she  ever  paid  me  on  my  looks. 

The  elite  were  all  there;  many  names  come  to 
me  of  those  attending.  There  were  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Chittenden  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  McGavic,  both  re- 
centy  married;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lewis  R.  Reeves,  the 
latter  afterwards  Mrs.  Judge  Miller;  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Birdsall,  Captain  and  Mrs.  J.  C.  Ainsworth,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Dierdoff,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  P.  D.  Foster,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Lyman  E.  Johnstone,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  E.  H. 
Harrison,  Mr.,  and  Mrs.  Tel  ford,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Thomas  Anderson,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  F.  Darst,  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Boice,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harry  Fulton  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bridgeman ;  and  of  single  men  I  recall 
Frank  Bridgeman,  J.  Late  Curtis,  Daniel  Cramm, 
James  F.  Cox,  Dr.  Duree,  Capt.  Charles  Mor- 
rison, William  S.  and  Henry  Ivins,  Dr.  Sullivan, 
Leroy  McGavic,  C.  F.  Davis,  Joel  Mathews,  J.  P. 
Reede,  C.  E.  Stone,  Ross  B.  Hughes,  Charles  Brad- 
ford and  many  others. 

There  were  many  very  pretty  girls,  some 
of  them  beautiful.  Of  these  I  will  mention  Mary 
J.  Hughes  and  Ellen  Cole,  two  of  the  handsomest 
girls  ever  in  Keokuk. 

There  was  much  sociability  between  Warsaw 
and  Keokuk,  especially  in  winter  when  the  river 
was  frozen  over;  as  soon  as  the  ice  was  strong 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        49 

enough  some  one  would  break  a  road  and  sleighing 
parties  were  of  frequent  occurrence  with  supper  and 
dancing  at  the  Warsaw  House.  There  was  good 
sleighing  on  both  the  river  and  shore  for  three 
months  of  the  winter  1848-49.  There  was  also  a 
large  sleighing  party  to  Ft.  Madison,  where  we 
danced  and  stayed  all  night  at  the  hotel  kept  by 
Col.  C.  H.  Perry,  who  afterwards  became  a  resident 
of  Keokuk.  At  least  three  weddings  grew  out  of  that 
sleighride  and  one  or  two  that  were  in  anticipation 
were  indefinitely  postponed. 

In  1850  the  ferry  between  Keokuk  and  Hamil- 
ton was  established  and  the  dike  was  built,  but  as 
yet  the  town  of  Hamilton  was  only  in  name.  Rail- 
roads were  thought  of  but  not  built  and  the  only 
means  of  travel  was  by  the  river  or  in  the  old  Con- 
cord coaches,  which  carried  many  a  weary  passen- 
ger over  roads  almost  impassable. 

I  recollect  a  trip  I  made  from  Burlington  to 
Warsaw  in  the  spring  of  1848.  I  was  just  a  school 
girl  traveling  alone.  We  left  Burlington  in  a  great 
lumbering  coach  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
with  nine  passengers  on  the  inside  with  four 
horses  attached.  The  mud  was  hub  deep;  sev- 
eral times  we  were  nearly  mired  down  and  the  ve- 
hicle had  to  be  pried  out  with  rails.  We  did  not 
reach  Keokuk  until  nine  o'clock  that  night,  were 
driven  at  once  to  the  wharf  where  a  steamboat  was 
just  ready  to  start  down  the  river.  I  asked  the 


50        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western-  Days. 

agent,  Mr.  Daniel  Hine,  to  take  me  on  board,  paid 
a  dollar  for  my  passage  and  reached  Warsaw  at 
eleven  o'clock  that  night  more  dead  than  alive,  as 
I  had  been  sick  all  day  from  the  rolling  of  the 
coach. 

In  1848  the  house  on  the  corner  of  First  and 
Johnston  street,  built  by  James  Ivins,  was  sold  by 
him  to  his  brother,  Charles  Ivins,  who  remodeled 
it  into  a  hotel,  having  leased  to  a  Mr.  Emery,  who 
died  before  getting  it  into  running  order,  leaving 
his  widow  with  small  means.  Mr.  Ivins  kindly 
released  her  of  the  responsibility  and  while  waiting 
for  a  tenant  kept  the  house  open  himself,  his  son, 
William  S.  Ivins,  taking  temporary  charge.  As 
time  went  on  no  renter  was  found  and  Mr.  Charles 
Ivins'  family  kept  the  house  themselves  for  almost 
four  years,  giving  it  the  name  of  the  Ivins  House. 
It  was  a  most  comfortable  place  for  the  times. 
Many  of  the  old  residents  put  up  there  on  their  first 
arrival  in  town.  I  could  name  forty  or  fifty  promi- 
nent men  who  made  their  first  home  in  Keokuk  at 
the  Ivins  House.  Many  young  men  boarded  there 
and  it  was  very  lively  with  parties,  rides,  walks  and 
other  amusements.  In  1855  it  was  sold  to  a  man 
by  the  name  of  Bunnel  who  kept  it  for  a  number  of 
years. 

Steamboats  were  really  more  numerous  then 
than  they  are  at  present.  A  line  of  elegant  packets 
had  been  established  between  here  and  St.  Louis, 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         51 

one  of  which  was  a  remarkable  blower  and  was 
quite  appropriately  named  the  Boreas,  whose  escape 
puff  could  be  heard  from  Canton,  twenty  miles 
away;  this  may  seem  incredible  but  it  is  absolutely 
true;  I  have  heard  it  many  times  and  oft.  Most  of 
(the  others  could  be  heard  four  or  five  miles;  it  was 
before  the  introduction  of  steam  whistles  and  they 
were  all  high  pressure  engines. 

Weddings  were  of  frequent  occurrence  here,  but 
many  of  the  young  men  went  away  "for  the  girls 
they  left  behind  them."  Mrs.  Emery  opened  a 
boarding  house  on  Second  street  between  Main  and 
Johnson  streets,  and  here  it  was  quite  the  fashion 
for  the  newly  married  people  to  board.  Among 
these  I  remember  Capt.  C.  F.  Conn  and  wife,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Charles  McDonald,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  W. 
Rankin,  Judge  and  Mrs.  James  M.  Love,  Capt. 
Charles  Morrison  and  wife,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gil- 
bert Comstock,  besides  some  others  not  so  youthful 
who  made  their  first  married  home  with  Mrs. 
Emery. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Abram  Chittenden  and  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  William  McGavic  lived  in  apartments  over 
their  store  on  Water  street.  They  were  leaders 
in  much  of  the  gaiety,  in  most  of  which  I  partici- 
pated until  our  departure  for  the  West,  four  years 
after  my  marriage  to  Mr.  William  S.  Ivins. 


52         /V//  Pictures  of  Early  ]\'cstern  Days. 
CHAPTER  VIII. 


NOTABLE  epoch  was  marked  in 
the  history  of  the  United  States 
by  the  opening  of  California  to' 
settlers,  and  in  the  year  1849 
the  discovery  of  gold  made  the 
emigration  great,  but  in  the  year 
1853  the  exodus  of  enthusiastic 
emigrants  from  the  states  to  the 
Pacific  slope  had  reached  its  height.  Not  only  had 
the  wonderful  gold  deposits  of  California  been  de- 
veloped, but  the  remarkable  agricultural  resources 
of  the  whole  western  slope  had  been  demonstrated 
and  an  all  absorbing  interest  in  that  far  off  Eldorado 
and  land  of  sunshine  pervaded  the  entire  country, 
more  marked  perhaps  throughout  the  Mississippi 
valley  where  thousands  looked  longingly  towards 
that  Golden  Sunset  Land,  finally  to  turn  resolutely 
Westward  Ho,  all  undaunted  by  the  besetting  dan- 
gers of  the  overland  journey  or  the  perils  of  the 
tedious  voyage  around  Cape  Horn.  Among  these 
my  husband  and  I  decided  upon  the  former  mode 
of  travel  as  being  the  quicker  and  perhaps  less  dan- 
gerous. 

Blessed  with  the  fearlessness  of  youth  we  started 
bravely  forth  to  seek  fortune  and  a  new  home  with 
but  slight  conception  of  the  dangers,  difficulties  and 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         53 

hardships  we  were  to  encounter  and  knowing  little 
of  the  sterner  realities  of  life  upon  the  more  remote 
frontier. 

The  time  of  our  departure  was  in  the  spring  of 
the  year  as  early  as  the  weather  would  permit. 

The  previous  winter  months  were  spent  by  my- 
self in  busy  preparations  for  the  journey,  in  con- 
triving suitable  clothing  for  my  husband,  myself 
and  for  my  little  boy  of  a  year  old  and  in  putting 
up  such  preserves,  pickles  and  other  delicacies  as 
could  l>e  kept  to  become  most  acceptable  when  after- 
wards compelled  to  partake  of  cold  meals  as  we 
often  wrere  throughout  our  trip. 

Aside  from  these  the  provisions  were  such  as 
were  used  in  army  life  and  consisted  of  ham,  bacon, 
smoked  beef  and  venison,  crackers,  hard  bread  and 
flour,  tea,  coffee  and  sugar,  beans,  rice,  lard  and 
butter,  molasses,  vinegar  and  other  condiments.  No 
vegetables  were  taken,  the  process  of  canning  being 
then  unknown,  but  a  large  fruit  cake  was  put  in 
for  high  feasts,  together  with  wine,  brandy  and 
medicine. 

My  husband  occupied  most  of  the  winter  in  pur- 
chasing a  drove  of  cattle  and  such  horses  as  he 
would  need,  in  breaking  oxen  to  the  yoke  and  in 
fitting  up  the  wagons  of  the  outfit,  three  in  number, 
\vhich  were  worthy  of  description. 

They  were  strong  and  heavy,  not  unlike  those 
in  present  use  on  the  farm  and  often  met  with  on 


54        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

country  roads.  The  wagon  boxes  were  divided  into 
compartments  and  packed  with  the  supplies  not  in 
daily  use,  and  above  these  they  were  floored  or 
decked  over.  To  these  decks  were  attached  the  bows 
upon  which  were  stretched  heavy  duck  covers. 

To  this  extent  the  wagons  were  identical,  ex- 
cepting mine,  which  was  called  the  house  wagon, 
to  which  a  more  extended  description  will  be  ac- 
corded later.  The  baggage  wagon  was  stored  with 
bedding  and  articles  in  daily  use  consisting  mainly 
of  the  camping  outfit,  tent,  stove,  etc.,  extra  yokes 
and  chains  with  two  large  cans  for  carrying  water 
on  the  desert.  These  with  the  addition  of  the  drov- 
ers' baggage  filled  every  available  space. 

The  second  wagon  was  reserved  to  the  use  of 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Galland,  my  uncle  and  aunt,  who  had 
decided  at  a  late  moment  to  accompany  us,  being 
unwilling  that  I  should  undertake  the  journey  with 
no  other  woman  in  the  party.  This  was  made  as 
comfortable  as  possible,  in  fact  quite  cosy.  The 
third,  the  house  wagon,  differed  only  from  the  oth- 
ers only  in  construction  of  the  decking  which  ex- 
tended out  over  the  wheels,  making  the  interior 
quite  roomy.  Its  width  accommodated  a  large  hair 
mattress  and  bed  with  pillows,  bolsters,  etc.  Back 
of  these  at  the  head  of  the  bed  was  room  for  a  side 
saddle  and  a  large  box  for  clothing,  which  could 
be  used  for  a  table  when  meals  were  taken  in  the 
wagon.  At  the  forward  end  was  a  wide  spring  seat 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         55 

with  cushions  and  buffalo  robes.  The  forward  com- 
partment beneath  the  deck  was  made  readily  acces- 
sible by  means  of  a  trap  door,  where  we  always 
kept  some  provisions  and  such  articles  as  might  be 
needed  in  an  emergency,  with  a  small  can  of  water 
sufficient  for  two  days'  consumption.  The  back 
board  was  arranged  to  let  down  with  chains  so  as 
to  form  a  cupboard  wherein  wrere  stored  provisions 
for  .daily  use,  and  was  most  convenient  when  pre- 
paring meals.  The  wagon  top  was  lined  with  thick 
comforts  making  it  impervious  to  wind  and  weather, 
and  from  the  center  swung  a  large  lantern.  Along 
the  sides  were  long  boxes  like  window  gardens 
where  were  kept  sewing  materials  and  various  odds 
and  ends  dear  to  the  housewife's  heart.  Above  these 
suspended  to  the  bows  by  straps  hung  a  shot  gun 
with  flasks  and  horns  of  amunition.  The  fire  arms 
were  kept  loaded  until  an  accidental  discharge  of 
the  gun  engendered  a  greater  degree  of  caution,  but 
of  this  more  anon.  We  are  yet  many  days  and 
hundreds  of  miles  from  this  point  in  our  chronicle, 
and  it  were  ill  to  anticipate. 

By  the  first  of  April  everything  was  in  readi- 
ness and  the  party  made  up,  consisting  of  my  uncle 
and  aunt,  my  husband  and  myself  and  little  boy, 
five  drovers  and  a  young  German  cook;  in  all  ten 
adults  and  one  child.  Some  few7  days  were  spent 
in  arranging  the  last  details  and  on  the  fifth  of  the 
month  the  start  was  made. 


56        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

The  day  was  anything  but  auspicious,  the  chill 
east  wind  blew  a  gale  and  the  occasional  gleams  of 
sunshine  that  struggled  through  the  dull  and  leaden 
sky  only  served  to  accentuate  the  gloomy  and  bleak 
desolation  that  pervaded  the  scene.  But  the  hearts 
of  the  little  band  were  brave  and  hopeful  and  the 
farewells  were  cheerily  said.  The  wagons  were 
started  in  the  forenoon  in  charge  of  the  men  going 
out  some  ten  miles  to  a  point  where  the  cattle  were 
herded,  and  my  uncle  and  aunt  with  Mr.  Ivins  and 
myself  and  baby  boy  went  out  later  to  spend  the 
night  at  the  farm  house  and  be  ready  for  an  early 
start  in  the  morning. 

The  following  morning,  April  sixth,  the  regular 
line  of  march  was  taken  up  and  the  eventful  journey 
of  many  months  of  danger,  hardship  and  privation 
was  well  under  way. 

Heading  the  little  train  was  the  house  wagon, 
then  followed  respectively  the  wagon  of  my  uncle 
and  aunt,  the  baggage  wagon  and  lastly  the  cattle, 
a  hundred  of  them  \vith  the  drovers  in  the  saddle. 
Everything  was  new  and  bright  and  during  the  first 
few  clays  presented  quite  an  imposing  appearance.  • 

The  roads  were  almost  impassable ;  for  weeks 
it  had  rained  almost  unremittingly  and  they  had 
become  rivers  and  lakes  of  mud  and  mire  that  be- 
came worse  as  the  train  pushed  on.  Ten  miles  a 
day  was  the  greatest  possible  distance  made,  and 
half  the  time  was  spent  in  doubling  teams,  which 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         57 

would  make  ten  yoke  of  oxen  to  a  wagon,  to  pull 
them  out  of  the  mud  holes  and  ruts  while  the  rain 
came  down  in  torrents. 

The  train  halted  at  night  where  good  pasture 
could  be  obtained  for  the  stock,  the  family  stopping 
at  farm  houses  with  the  drovers  camping,  for  whom 
Carl,  the  German  cook,  prepared  meals. 

On  Sunday,  April  ninth,  we  reached  Oskaloosa, 
the  drive  through  town  being  made  as  the  church 
bells  were  ringing  for  morning  service.  The  sound 
filled  my  heart  with  longing  for  friends  at  home 
who  were  worshiping  in  the  dear  little  church  which 
would  know  us  no  more  for  years,  but  no  regrets 
were  spoken  and  we  moved  on  at  a  snail's  pace. 

To  add  to  the  general  depression  my  little  boy 
was  attacked  with  congestion  of  the  lungs  and  the 
train  laid  by  at  a  place  called  What  Cheer  with  bur 
small  hopes  of  his  recovery,  but  fortunately  my 
uncle  was  a  skillful  physician  and  brought  him 
through  when  death  seemed  almost  inevitable.  We 
were  not  comfortable  at  the  inn  and  my  uncle 
thought  best  to  move  on  and  carry  the  little  one  on 
a  pillow,  so  we  proceeded  on  our  way,  some  one 
walking  and  carrying  him  for  many  days.  How- 
ever, the  change  seemed  to  be  of  benefit  and  he  re- 
covered rapidly. 


58         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 
CHAPTER  IX. 

HE  State  of  Iowa  is  three  hundred 
miles  across,  the  road  leading  up 
a  divide  between  two  or  three 
inland  streams  and  through  a 
fine  country,  but  still  made 
dreary  by  the  cold  rains  o-f  the 
early  spring.  Passing  farms  and 
villages,  fording  creeks  and  fer- 
rying rivers,  April  seventeenth  we  reached  the  Fa- 
bian river,  where  for  the  first  time  it  was  necessary 
to  camp  and  sleep  in  the  wagons.  Here  Mr.  Ivins 
found  it  advisable  to  substitute  fresher  oxen,  for 
those  driven  were  very  tired.  It  was  distressing  to 
witness  the  struggles  of  the  poor  beasts  to  keep  from 
being  yoked,  but  after  hours  of  hard  work  it  was 
accomplished  and  we  drown  down  a  steep  hill  ex- 
pecting to  ford  the  stream  and  drive  right  on.  What 
was  our  disappointment,  however,  to  find  the  river 
so  sw;ollen  by  the  rains  as  to  be  impassable  except  in 
a  dug  out  made  of  a  hollow  log.  Here  was  a  di- 
lemma; fortunately  the  cattle  could  swim  and  some 
of  the  men  had  to  do  the  same  in  order  to  keep 
them  together,  but  how  to  get  the  wagons  and  fam- 
ily over  was  the  question.  However,  Mr.  Ivins  soon 
devised  a  way. 

Unloading  the  lumber  wagon  he  launched  it  like 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         59 

a  boat,  then  taking  the  family  in  it  he  towed  it  some 
distance  up  the  stream  and  floated  it  across  guided 
by  himself  in  the  dug  out.  In  this  way  by  many 
successive  trips  the  whole  outfit  was  gotten  over. 
It  was  sundown  when  the  last  load  was  landed. 
My  uncle,  who  was  not  much  of  a  water  man,  was 
thrown  into  the  stream  by  the  upsetting  of  the  dug 
out  early  in  the  fray,  but  fortunately  with  no  serious 
consequences.  The  fire  was  made  and  Carl  got 
supper  while  my  aunt  and  I  made  the  beds  and 
cared  for  the  baby  for  the  night,  and  a  more  weary 
party  never  sought  their  downy  couches. 

The  next  few  days  were  quite  monotonous,  the 
usual  routine  in  camp  and  the  steady  gait  of  the 
oxen  on  the  road  brought  us  to  Council  Bluffs  April 
twenty-first  where  we  stopped  a  short  distance  out 
of  the  town  pasturing  the  drove,  while  the  family 
staid  at  the  farm  house  and  the  men  camped  in  the 
yard.  Here  we  remained  nine  days. 

Not  being  suited  with  his  help,  Mr.  Ivins  changed 
here  for  an  entirely  new  set  of  men,  all  excepting 
Carl,  and  the  final  preparations  were  made,  for  our 
road  now  lay  beyond  civilization. 

After  a  good  rest  at  Council  Bluffs  we  were 
quite  ready  for  the  forward  move  and  on  the  morn- 
ing of  May  first  the  little  train  was  again  in  motion, 
driving  through  the  streets  of  the  town  and  across 
the  wide  flat  to  the  Missouri  river  to  be  ferried 
over. 


60         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Da  vs. 

On  reaching  the  flat  we  found,  however,  that 
there  were  at  least  five  hundred  wagons  before  us 
with  thousands  of  cattle  waiting  to  cross  and 
were  told  that  we  must  wait  our  turn,  which 
probably  would  not  come  for  several  days.  My 
husband  was  in  no  mood  for  waiting,  so  watching 
his  opportunity  he  rushed  in  while  some  slower  per- 
son \vas  getting  ready  and  before  night  we  were  on 
the  Nebraska  side  and  made  our  camp  where  the 
city  of  Omaha  is  now  situated.  To  celebrate  our 
fortunate  start  we  killed  a  fine  calf  and  feasted  on 
the  last  fresh  meat  we  had  for  three  months,  except- 
ing occasionally  when  some  one  would  kill  a  jack 
rabbit  or  a  sage  hen,  although  they  were  not  very 
plentiful. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  morning  of  May  second 
we  took  up  our  line  of  march  toward  the  Golden 
\Yest  on  the  broad  well  beaten  road,  which  was 
lined  with  vehicles  of  every  description,  cattle, 
horses,  sheep  and  mules  with  men,  women  and  chil- 
dren walking  to  save  the  beasts  of  burden.  We 
were  almost  always  in  sight  of  trains  for  the  first 
five  hundred  miles,  further  on  as  the  roads  branched 
off  leading  to  different  points  or  passes  we  were 
more  alone. 

It  was  a  bright,  beautiful  morning  and  our  cour- 
age was  renewed  by  having  made  so  successful  a 
start  west  of  the  Missouri  river.  After  luncheon 
Mr.  Ivins  went  ahead  to  arrange  about  crossing  the 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         6r 

Elk  .Horn  river,  which  is  the  first  branch  of  the 
Platte  on  the  north  side,  as  our  road  was  to  take 
us  that  way.  He  also  would  look  for  a  convenient 
camping"  ground  for  the  night.  He  had  been  gone 
but  a  short  time  when  the  sky  became  overcast  and 
a  fearful  storm  arose  with  wind,  rain  and  hail  which 
came  down  in  torrents.  The  train  had  to  be  stopped 
and  the  oxen  turned  around  to  be  sheltered  by  the 
wagons,  while  the  men  crept  under  them  for  pro- 
tection. I  was  lying  down  with  my  little  lx>y  un- 
heeding the  storm  and  was  singing  as  was  my  usual 
habit,  but  could  hear  the  poor  drovers  below  me 
complaining  and  bewailing  their  lot  in  no  mild 
terms.  Suddenly  one  of  them  exclaimed,  "By 
George!  if  she  ain't  a  singinV  My  song  ceased  at 
once;  not  so  with  the  storm  which  lasted  over  an 
hour;  then  the  sun  came  out  and  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey  but  did  not  reach  Elk  Horn  till  after 
dark,  where  we  found  Mr.  Ivins  waiting  for  us 
and  anxious  at  our  delay.  He  had  selected  a  good 
camp  ground  and  we  were  soon  arranged  for  the 
night,  but  had  to  be  content  with  a  cold  supper  as 
we  had  nothing  for  fuel.  From  this  on  for  hundreds 
of  miles  our  only  fuel  was  sage  brush  and  buffalo 
chips  which  are  anything  but  pleasant  to  burn. 

As  soon  as  Mr.  Ivins  came  into  the  wagon  he 
said:  "Well,  whom  do  you  think  are  here?  The 
Crams.  I  have  just  come  from  their  tent  where  I 
left  Mrs.  Cram  with  her  dress  tucked  up  around 


62        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

her  standing  on  the  only  dry  spot  in  the  tent  holding 
a  bird  cage  and  the  girl  trying  to  get  supper."  Now 
the  Cram  train  had  been  a  source  of  much  worry 
to  me  and  so  deserves  a  special  explanation. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        63 

CHAPTER  X. 

R.  Cram's  train  consisted  of  a  party 
from  our  home  town  of  Keokuk 
and  was  composed  of  six  per- 
sons besides  drivers  and  serv- 
ants. They  were  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Cram,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  George, 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Neuse.  The 
first  two  ladies  were  sisters  and 
had  been  dear  friends  of  mine  from  childhood.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  we  had  planned  to*  go  west  together. 
But  as  Mr.  Ivins  arranged  to  take  a  drove  of  cattle 
and  Mr.  Cram  wanted  to  go  with  horses  and  spend 
less  time  on  the  trip,  \ve  gave  up  traveling  together, 
only  promising  to>  see  as  much  of  each  other  as 
possible  on  the  first  part  of  the  journey,  but  of 
course  later  on  we  would  be  far  behind.  Three 
months  would  be  the  limit  to  their  trip,  while  to 
ours  there  was  none,  with  every  prospect  of  a 
tedious  journey. 

The  contrast  was  just  as  great  between  our 
mode  of  preparation.  Their  train  consisted  of  three 
large  heavy  covered  spring  wagons  painted  black, 
such  as  were  used  by  the  old  stage  lines  for  mud 
wagons  in  winter.  They  were  somewhat  like  an 
ambulance  but  opened  at  the  side  with  the  driver's 
seat  in  front.  There  were  folding  beds  inside. 


64        Pen  Pictures  of  Early+Western  Days. 

leaving  room  for  small  chairs  and  sewing  tables, 
work  baskets,  bird  cages  and  pretty  knick  knacks 
around;  and  the  women  were  tastefully  dressed, 
and  had  a  good  girl  to  do  the  cooking,  and  taking  all 
together  they  were  very  stylish.  Mr.  Cram  rode  a 
white  mule  with  jingling  accutrements,  and  they 
had  an  elegant  marquee  tent  and  camp  equipage 
which  was  carried  in  a  lumber  wagon,  and  all  were 
drawn  by  fine  horses ;  and  really  they  were  "no  end 
of  swell,"  and  the  contrast  worried  me  not  a  little. 

The  ladies  of  the  party  did  not  cross  the  state 
of  Iowa  in  the  wagons,  but  went  to  St.  Louis  by 
boat  and  thence  up  the  Missouri  river  on  the  large 
steamer  Kentucky  which  was  owned  by  Mrs. 
Cram's  father,  he  taking  it  to  Council  Bluffs  to  be 
used  as  a  ferry  boat  during  the  rush  of  emigration. 
They  had  been  at  Council  Bluffs  two  weeks.  Their 
journey  so  far  had  been  a  pleasure  trip  only,  as 
they  had  remained  on  the  boat  waiting  for  the  water 
to  subside.  Their  wagons  were  ferried  across  the 
same  day  with  ours,  but  before  noon.  They  had 
driven  out  as  far  as  Elk  Horn  where  they  were 
again  \vaiting  their  turn  to  be  ferried  over.  This 
might  not  come  for  days  as  there  were  hundreds 
there  before  them  waiting  for  the  same  thing. 

The  river  had  overflowed  its  banks  and  the 
water  extended  for  miles  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river.  So  far  we  seemed  the  more  fortunate,  and 
I  quite  congratulated  myself  that  my  house  was 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        65 

at  least  dry,  although  it  had  only  a  duck  cover. 
My  little  Dutchman  was  becoming  most  reliable  and 
trustworthy  and  not  at  all  afraid  of  the  weather. 
While  on  the  road  he  took  care  of  my  little  boy, 
and  in  camp  took  entire  charge ;  and  I  will  say  now 
that  he  was  a  true,  faithful  friend  when  friends  were 
scarce,  never  faltering  in  his  affectionate  care  for  me 
and  mine.  May  success  and  happiness  attend  him 
wherever  he  may  be. 

We  retired  early  and  after  a  good  night's  rest 
awoke  by  times  in  the  morning;  upon  looking  out 
I  saw  a  perfect  sea  of  white  wagon  tops  and 
exclaimed :  "Oh !  we  shall  be  so  long  waiting  our 
turn  to  be  ferried  over."  My  husband  replied :  "I 
do  not  intend  to  wait,"  and  started  out  to  recon- 
noiter ;  soon  returning  in  great  haste,  he  said  :  "If 
you  will  hurry  we  can  get  across  before  any  one 
else  is  ready."  Things  were  just  thrown  into  the 
wagons,  and  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  be  the  first 
to  be  ferried,  because  \ve  were  for  once  the  early 
birds.  Mr.  Ivins  then  went  back  and  had  the  cattle 
driven  into  the  stream  some  distance  below,  where, 
by  keeping  them  away  from  the  shore,  they  at  last 
struck  out  for  the  other  side,  soon  reaching1  it  in 
safety,  where  the  drovers  herded  them  till  the 
wagons  were  ready  to  start. 

We  drove  on  about  five  miles  to'  high  ground 
where  we  camped  for  the  rest  of  the  day,  but  no 
Cram  train  came  in  sight  for  four  or  five  days.  The 


66        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

next  stream  to  cross  was  Loup  Fork,  the  second 
longest  branch  of  the  Platte;  this  we  did,  however, 
without  difficulty.  The  cattle  had  learned  what 
was  expected  of  them  when  driven  into  the  water, 
and  at  once  made  for  the  other  shore  where  we 
camped  for  that  night. 

The  morning  of  May  fifth  saw  us  moving  on  at 
the  usual  rate  of  about  twenty-five  miles  a  day.  We 
stopped  at  noon  for  luncheon  after  which  I  decided 
to  ride  on  horse  back,  which  I  often  did  in  the  earlier 
stages  of  the  journey.  My  uncle  rode  most  of  the 
time,  so  I  always  had  company.  After  I  had 
mounted  Mr.  Ivins  asked  me  to  go  and  start  %up 
some  of  the  drove  which  had  lagged.  The  horse 
knew  just  how  to  do  that  so  it  would  be  no  trouble. 
I  saw  that  the  saddle  girth  needed  tightening  and 
called  to  one  of  the  men  to  come  and  fix  it.  He 
ran  towards  me  throwing  up  his  hands  and  calling 
me  to  hold  on.  This  startled  the  horse  which  at 
once  began  stepping  backwards,  the  saddle  slipping 
with  every  step,  and  before  I  could  stop  him  I  was 
on  the  ground  with  his  great  hoof  just  coming  down 
on  my  face.  My  arm  was  up  holding  on  to  the 
bridle.  I  let  go  of  this  and  pushed  his  foot  with 
all  my  might,  taking  the  skin  off  my  arm  from  the 
elbow  to  the  w7rist.  I  succeeded,  however,  in  keep- 
ing him  from  stepping  full  on  my  face,  but  for 
weeks  I  was  greatly  disfigured  with  my  blackened 
eyes  and  swollen  nose.  My  ride  was  postponed  for 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        67 

that  day;  the  excitment  was  great  in  the  small 
party  for  I  was  a  most  important  personage  in  their 
estimation,  especially  that  of  my  husband,  for  we 
were  like  boy  and  girl  starting  out  to  seek  our 
fortunes,  I  being  at  that  time  only  twenty,  and  he 
just  a  few  years  older.  A  few  days  afterwards, 
however,  I  would  have  my  ride,  making-  another 
attempt  in  company  with  my  uncle.  The  guide 
book  said  that  after  leaving  Loup  Fork  there  were 
no  more  trees  for  five  hundred  miles.  We  were 
quite  skeptical  and  were  sure  that  a  clump  of  green 
some  distance  from  the  road  must  be  trees,  so1  we 
proceeded  to  investigate,  riding  off  in  great  glee. 
It  proved  to  be  a  ledge  of  rocks  covered  with  bushes, 
and  to  our  consternation  an  immense  gray  wolf 
walked  out  to  meet  us.  We  were  not  slow  in  getting 
back  to  the  road,  quite  willing  in  the  future  to  accept 
the  guide  book. 

The  whole  country  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach 
was  composed  of  low  sand  hills  covered  with  coarse 
grass,  cactus  and  sage  brush,  with  the  Platte  on  one 
side,  along  whose  banks  the  road  led  most  of  the 
time.  We  could  see  the  emigrant  trains  on  the  road 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  On  one  occasion, 
looking  across  we  saw  a  large  herd  of  buffalo  come 
rushing  down  a  hill  towards  the  river,  trampling 
down  both  train  and  people  in  its  mad  career,  and 
on  into  the  river  before  they  could  escape.  Many 


68        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

persons  must  have  been  injured,  but  we  could  not 
ascertain  if  such  were  the  case. 

The  Platte  is  a  most  peculiar  river.  On  stoop- 
ing- down  and  looking  across  the  water  seems  to 
round  up  like  an  over-filled  goblet,  and  has  a  smoky 
taste  like  buckskin  tanned  by  the  Indians. 

We  were  in  the  midst  of  the  rainy  season,  and 
every  afternoon  were  treated  to  the  most  terrific 
thunder  storms  I  ever  witnessed,  which  came  up 
about  four  o'clock,  the  thunder  and  lightning  snap- 
ping and  cracking  around  like  whip  cords.  Unless 
we  camped  early  supper  was  out  of  the  question, 
and  on  many  nights  a  cold  eolation  had  to  satisfy  us. 
One  night  in  particular  the  storm  was  so  violent 
that  the  men  could  not  guard  the  cattle.  Since 
leaving  Loup  Fork  we  had  been  warned  to  beware 
of  Indians  and  it  was  safer  to  have  a  guard,  but  this 
night  it  was  given  up.  We  seemed  to  be  right  in 
among  the  clouds,  and  in  the  morning  passed  two 
newly  made  graves  of 'men  who  were  killed  by  light- 
ning the  night  before.  We  traveled  on  at  the  usual 
rate  for  several  days  without  incident.  Neither 
Carl  or  I  knew  how  to  make  bread,  and  we  were 
very  tired  of  batter  cakes  and  poor,  heavy  biscuits. 
One  evening  we  camped  near  a  very  nice  looking 
family.  The  woman  was  baking  bread  and  it  looked 
most  tempting.  I  thought,  what  a  fine  thing  it 
would  be  if  we  could  have  such  bread.  So  I  took 
courage  and  called  on  my  neighbor  of  the  night  to 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        69 

ask  for  information.  She  seemed  quite  willing  to 
teach  me  and  gave  me  some  yeast  with  instructions 
how  to  use  it.  As  I  never  kept  house  it  was  not 
strange  that  I  did  not  know.  We  had  thrown  our 
stove  away  and  had  no  way  to  bake  except  in  a 
reflector  and  the  wind  always  blew  into  that  which- 
ever way  it  came,  making  things  taste  of  sage,  and 
the  flavor  was  anything  but  good ;  all  of  which  I 
stated  in  pretty  strong  terms.  She  then  offered  me 
a  Dutch  oven  which  she  said  was  too  large  for  her 
use,  which  I  gladly  accepted.  She  also  suplied  me 
with  yeast  sufficient  to  last  me  all  summer  with 
care.  I  went  home  in  triumph;  sent  Carl  after  the 
Dutch  oven,  and  at  once  proceeded  to  try  my  hand 
at  the  new  method.  I  did  just  as  my  kind  neighbor 
directed,  and  in  the  morning  had  two  loaves  of  ele- 
gant bread  which  Carl  baked  by  making  little  fires 
of  sage  twigs  on  the  lid  and  under  the  oven,  which 
did  not  look  as  if  they  were  doing  any  good,  but 
the  bread  came  out  a  beautiful  brown.  After  that 
Carl  improved  on  the  teacher,  made  his  sponge  and 
bread  over  night,  punched  it  down  a  little  in  the 
morning  and  baked  one  loaf  while  he  was  getting 
breakfast  and  another  while  we  were  eating  and 
getting  ready  to  start.  I  never  saw  such  bread  or 
tasted  any  as  good  before,  and  never  expect  to  again. 
Upon  the  whole  we  were  having  rather  a  good  time; 
were  all  well,  were  becoming  inured  to  privations, 
and  things  were  moving  along  quite  satisfactorily. 


70        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 
CHAPTER  XL 

|Y  this  time  we  had  reached  a  point 
opposite  Grand  Island,  Neb. 
After  a  long  day's  drive,  had 
camped  near  the  river,  supper 
was  over,  the  guards  stationed, 
and  we  had  all  retired  with  no 
expectation  of  danger  or  harm. 
All  was  quiet  until  about  mid- 
night, when  suddenly  without  any  warning  or  ap- 
parent cause,  the  whole  one  hundred  head  of  cattle 
started  up,  went  wild  and  stampeded,  running  right 
over  the  guards  in  their  frenzy,  and  were  off  like 
the  wind.  The  noise  was  like  the  roar  of  Niagara 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  all  was  silent.  The 
guards  followed  and  the  other  men  joined  in  the 
chase,  leaving  my  uncle  and  aunt  and  me  quite  alone 
in  the  camp.  After  hours  of  running  they  brought 
back  about  sixty,  all  the  others  having  escaped 
entirely.  There  was  no  more  sleep  for  them  or  us 
that  night.  The  poor  creatures  seemed  perfectly 
terror  stricken,  and  it  took  the  whole  force  to  keep 
them  from  rushing  off  again.  When  daylight  came, 
however,  their  fears  seemed  to  subside.  As  soon  as 
it  was  light  in  the  morning  Mr.  Ivins  prepared  to 
go  in  search  of  those  that  were  lost.  Selecting  his 
most  reliable  man,  Clark  by  name,  he  made  ready  for 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        71 

a  three  days'  journey.  No  entreaties  of  mine  could 
dissuade  him  and  he  assured  me  there  was  no  dan- 
ger, but  I  could  not  be  convinced.  After  exhausting- 
all  persuasion  in  vain  I  had  Carl  put  up  a  hamper 
of  food,  as  much  as  they  could  carry,  for  the  horses 
were  so  completely  worn  out  with  the  night's  chase 
that  they  were  obliged  to  go  on  foot.  So  taking 
the  hamper  and  a  roll  of  blankets  they  departed  on 
their  perilous  expedition.  Going  directly  away  from 
the  road  they  plunged  at  once  into  the  wild  unex- 
plored country,  filled  with  buffalo,  wolves  and  the 
more  terrible  hostile  Indians.  It  was  with  a  heavy 
heart  I  saw  my  husband  start  on  that  fearful  jour- 
ney, but  to.  him  fear  was  unknown,  and  he  laughed 
at  my  anxiety.  They  soon  found  the  trail  of  the 
cattle,  which  they  followed  steadily  all  day,  at  night 
sleeping  on  the  ground.  As  soon  as  it  was  light 
they  resumed  their  way,  at  a  rapid  gait,  still  keeping 
their  eyes  on  the  ground  and  beginning  to  have 
hopes  of  overtaking  them. 

They  had  walked  in  this  way  till  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  for  some  cause  Mr. 
Ivins  raised  his  head,  and  glancing  around  he  saw 
silently  following  them  five  Indians,  and  exclaimed  : 
"My  God,  Clark,  look  at  the  Indians!" 

The  savages  on  seeing  that  they  were  discovered, 
drew  up  their  guns  and  took  aim  at  the  two  men, 
but  did  not  fire,  as  my  husband  beckoned  to  them 
to  come  near.  They  rushed  up  and  danced  a  war 


72        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

dance  around  their  prisoners,  whooping  and  yelling 
like  mad.  Mr.  Ivins  pretended  to  think  them 
friendly  and  explained  to  them  by  signs  that  he 
was  hunting-  cattle,  representing  the  horns  and  man- 
ner of  running.  They  gave  him  to  understand 
that  they  had  seen  them  in  a  certain  direction,  and 
ordered  the  two  men  to  move  on  with  them.  My 
husband  refused  but  they  pointed  their  guns  at  them 
again,  in  a  most  threatening  manner,  and  he  con- 
cluded that  "discretion  was  the  better  part  of  valor," 
so  they  walked  on  until  the  sun  was  almost  clown. 
Again  Mr.  Ivins  halted  and  signified  his  intention  of 
having  supper,  and  began  building  a  fire.  The  In- 
dians still  insisted  upon  his  going  on,  but  he  would 
not  look  at  them  and  pretended  not  to  understand. 
As  soon  as  the  fire  blazed  up  one  of  the  Indians 
kicked  it  out  and  cocking  his  gun  ordered  Mr.  Ivins  to 
march  in  no  gentle  terms,  so  on  they  went  till  almost 
dark  and  the  usual  storm  was  arising.  Finally, 
reaching  a  small  creek  where  there  were  willows, 
they  held  a  council  and  deciding  to  camp  began  cut- 
ting willows  for  a  wigwam.  Mr.  Ivins  was  heavily 
armed  with  a  six  shooter  and  large  bowie  knife  and 
he  at  once  began  cutting  willows,  using  his  bowie 
knife  which  was  bright  and  sharp.  One  of  the 
Indians  wanted  to  take  it.  Mr.  Ivins  gave  it  to  him 
as  a  matter  of  course.  He  examined  it  closely,  then 
taking  a  willow  sapling  cut  it  into  small  pieces, 
exclaiming  with  every  stroke,  "Whoa!"  After  my 
husband  thought  he  had  used  it  long  enough,  he 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        73 

took  it  and  again  assisted  in  building  the  wigwam. 
The  frame  work  being  finished  they  took  Mr.  Ivins' 
blankets  to  line  it  and  made  quite  a  shelter.  How- 
ever, it  was  small  protection  against  the  Nebraska 
storms.  The  Indians  then  examined  the  hamper 
and  took  what  food  they  wanted,  discarding  the 
pork,  which  they  called  "coche,"  but  eating  all  the 
other  kinds.  Supper  over,  they  went  into  the  wig- 
wam taking  their  prisoners  with  them,  and  laid 
down  placing  the  two  men  between  them. 

By  this  time  the  rain  came  down  in  torrents 
and  the  water  wras  soon  six  inches  deep  where  they 
lay.  The  Indians  with  scanty  clothing  suffered 
terribly,  grunting  and  groaning  constantly.  It  was 
as  dark  as  Egypt  and  as  dreary.  In  the  middle  of 
the  night,  without  the  slightest  apparent  cause,  they 
gave  simultaneously  the  most  terrific  whoop,  and 
sprang  up  dragging  their  captives  out  of  the  wig- 
wam with  the  evident  intention  o*f  dispatching  them. 
As  soon  as  they  were  released  Mr.  Ivins  told  Clark 
to  get  back  into  the  wigwam  as  rapidly  as  possible, 
and  he  did  the  same.  One  of  the  Indians  remained 
in  the  wigwam,  and  to  this  circumstance  they  prob- 
ably owed  their  lives  at  that  time,  as  had  they  fired 
into  the  tent  they  were  in  clanger  of  killing  their 
partner.  In  a  little  while  the  rascals  crept  back  and 
laid  down,  but  there  was  no  more  sleep. 

When  the  sun  rose  bright  and  clear  they  got  up 
and  made  a  breakfast  out  of  the  provisions  left  in 


74        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

the  hamper,  but  seemed  in  no  hurry  to  resume  their 
journey.  One  of  their  number  amused  himself  by 
representing  to  Mr.  Ivins  how  they  would  shoot  and 
scalp  them,  going  through  the  motions  with  great 
gusto.  Mr.  Ivins  pretended  to  think  it  a  joke  and 
laughed  with  him.  They  asked  how  many  times 
his  revolver  would  shoot,  and  he  explained  that  it 
was  one  more  times  than  there  were  Indians. 

My  husband  instructed  Clark  that  if  an  attack 
were  made  upon  them  that  he  should  jump  at  one 
Indian  and  grab  his  gun,  shoot  another  and 
that  he  would  manage  the  other  three.  The  vil- 
lains, however,  knew  nothing  of  this.  About  eleven 
o'clock  in  the  morning  Mr.  Ivins  made  up  his  mind 
that  it  was  time  to  get  away,  so  endeavored  to  make 
them  understand  that  he  must  goi  to  his  wife  and 
baby  on  the  road. 

He  showed  them  his  ammunition,  and  proceeded 
to  divide  with  them,  giving  to  each  and  shaking  the 
flasks  to  show  that  he  had  given  them  an  equal 
share.  He  also  took  a  paper  of  pins,  which  he  had 
in  his  pocket,  giving  some  to  each  one;  they  were 
so  pleased  with  these,  sticking  them  all  over  their 
blankets. 

He  now  directed  Clark  to  take  down  the  blankets 
and  roll  them  up  and  be  ready  to  start.  One  of  the 
Indians  wanted  part  of  one  of  the  blankets  for  leg- 
gings; upon  Clark  refusing  to  let  him  have  it  he 
became  greatly  enraged.  Mr.  Ivins  seeing  this  took 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         75 

the  blanket  from  Clark  as  if  he,  too,  were  offended 
and  cut  in  two  just  as  his  honor  wanted,  giving  him 
his  choice  of  the  pieces,  upon  which  he  became  much 
interested  in  arranging  them,  and  went  some  little 
distance  off.  This  one  seemed  to.  be  the  chief  and 
was  the  most  overbearing-. 

Mr.  Ivins  now  saw  that  this  was  their  oppor- 
tunity, so  told  Clark  to  start  on  and  not  look  back. 
As  he  started  my  husband  shook  hands  with  each 
one,  said  good-bye  and  walked  after  his  companion. 
He  went  rapidly,  not  looking  back  for  fear  of  orders 
to  return,  but  expecting  a  bullet  every  minute; 
neverthless  kept  straight  on  until  he  was  beyond 
gunshot,  when,  glancing  back,  he  saw  the  Indians 
huddled  tog-ether  talking  and  wildly  gesticulating, 
all  excepting  the  cross  one  who  was  still  engaged 
with  his  costume.  Just  then  the  two  men  went  over 
a  small  rise  of  ground;  they  immediately  started 
into  a  run  and  kept  that  pace  for  many  miles.  My 
husband  was  convinced  that  the  Indians  fully 
intended  to  shoot  them,  but  were  deterred  from 
doing  so  by  his  kindly  treatment  of  them.  Of 
course,  if  they  had  looked  back  and  disobeyed  orders 
it  would  have  given  an  excuse  for  firing  upon  them. 


76        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Da\s. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

LL  day  the  two  men  steadily  pur- 
sued their  way,  having  given  up 
the  idea  of  going  further  to  look 
for  the  cattle,   which  were  too 
far  away  by  this  time.     All  day 
they    walked    over    plains    and 
sand   hills    covered    with    sage 
brush  and  cactus,  until  their  feet 
almost  gave  out  and  their  boots  became  unbearable. 
Mr.  Ivins  discarding  his  walked  in  his  stocking  feet 
till  they  were  worn  out,  and  then  in  his  bare  feet, 
which  were  filled  with  the  needles  of  the  cactus. 
Still  they  toiled  on,   passing  hundreds  of  buffalo 
who  would  just  look  at  them,  and  not  quit  grazing 
or  even  rise  if  lying  down. 

Mr.  Ivins  had  taken  his  course  towards  Platte 
river,  guided  only  by  the  wind.  It  was  a  cloudy 
afternoon  and  he  had  no  other  means  of  judging 
the  points  of  the  compass.  A  dozen  times  Clark 
stopped,  refusing  to  proceed  further  in  that  direc- 
tion, declaring  that  they  were  going  away  from 
the  road,  but  as  my  husband  kept  on  he  would 
follow,  not  daring  to  be  left  alone  or  wishing  to 
desert  his  companion. 

About  nine  o'clock  that  night  they  found  the 
road,  striking  it  about  fifteen  miles  ahead  of  where 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         77 

they  left  us.  Mr.  Ivins  directed  us  before  leaving 
that  we  should  travel  about  five  miles  each  day 
during  his  absence,  not  anticipating  the  difficulties 
that  would  beset  us.  The  first  day  we  had  gone 
the  allotted  distance  and  camped  again  on  the  bank 
of  the  river.  Supper  was  over,  and  as  all  seemed 
quiet  we  felt  quite  secure;  but  for  fear  of  another 
stampede  we  had  stationed  the  wagons  at  right 
angles  with  the  river,  that  forming  one  side,  with 
chains  fastened  securely  from,  the  wheels  of  the 
three,  thus  making  a  sort  of  fence,  the  open  side 
to  be  guarded  by  the  men ;  then  I  had  twelve  yoke 
•of  oxen  yoked  up  and  chained  to  the  wheels.  Into 
the  hollow  square  I  had  the  cattle  and  horses  driven. 
The  guards  took  their  places  and  the  family  went 
to  their  quarters.  I  could  not  sleep,  so  did  not  go 
to  bed  and  was  reading*.  About  midnight,  just 
as  the  night  before,  there  \vas  a  sudden  rush,  right 
over  the  guards  and  away  w7ent  the  cattle  again 
like  the  wind.  Those  chained  to  the  wheels  ripped 
and  tore  in  their  mad  frenzy,  and  I  thought  they 
would  take  the  wheels  off  in  their  terror,  but  they 
were  securely  chained  and  after  a  while  calmed 
down.  It  was  not  a  pleasant  experience  to  be  in 
the  wagons  while  they  tugged  with  such  force  as 
to  almost  pull  them  to  pieces.  When  they  became 
quiet  I  looked  out.  Nothing  was  to  be  seen  or 
heard  but  the  breathing  of  the  poor  f rigiitened  crea- 
tures ;  all-the  others  were  gone  and  the  men  follow- 
ing on  horses  and  on  foot.  Towards  morning  they 


78        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

came  driving-  them  all  back,  none  having-  gotten 
away  that  night. 

We  had  an  early  breakfast  and  started,  thinking- 
it  better  to  have  them  on  the  road  than  to  stay  in 
one  place.  As  yet  there  was  no  news  of  my  husband 
and  I  was  very  uneasy  about  him.  The  poor  ani- 
mals were  nearly  worn  out,  so  we  took  a  long  rest 
at  noon,  then  made  a  short  drive  and  camped  some 
distance  from  the  river,  quite  near  the  road.  That 
night,  with  the  exception  of  the  regular  storm  which 
was  not  severe,  was  more  restful  to  the  most  of  the 
train,  but  my  anxiety  increased  when  no  word  came 
from  my  husband  who  was  out  in  that  desolate 
country  in  such  great  danger. 

The  next  day  we  made  the  appointed  five  miles, 
camping  as  before,  but  away  from  the  river,  near  the 
road.  The  cattle  were  becoming  more  quiet,  and 
we  hoped  that  the  worst  was  over,  but  before  we 
could  have  supper  the  usual  storm  broke  in  all  its 
fury.  The  tent  was  blown  dow,  the  thunder  and 
lightning'  were  so  terrific  that  the  men  could  not 
guard  the  stock,  the  rain  and  hail  came  down 
in  sheets  and  darkness  settled  down  on  us  like  a 
pall.  My  poor  husband  was  away  with  no  protec- 
tion, where  I  did  not  know,  and  my  distress  cannot 
be  described.  If  there  were  only  something  that  I 
could  do  it  might  be  some  relief,  so  I  tried  to  keep 
a  beacon  light  for  him,  with  a  lantern  raised  on  a 
wagon  tongue,  which  the  wind  blew  down  as  often 
as  we  propped  it  up. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         79 

After  a  while  the  camp  became  silent  and  the 
gloom  deepened.  Alone  with  my  baby  boy  in  the 
wagon  I  fully  realized  the  situation,  and  was  certain 
that  I  should  never  see  my  husband  again.  As  the 
hours  wore  on  I  became  almost  frantic.  My  aunt 
hearing  my  sobs  tried  to  comfort  me  with  loving 
words,  but  both  she  and  my  uncle  were  old  people 
and  could  not  come  to  me  in  the  fearful  storm. 

My  senses  were  unusually  acute  and  about  two 
o'clock  I  thought  that  I  heard  a  faint  hello.  I  lis- 
tened; it  was  repeated,  and  now  surely  it  was  a  call. 
I  sprang  to  the  front  of  my  wagon,  dashed  up  the 
curtain  and  shouted  with  all  the  strength  of  my 
not  weak  lungs,  again  and  again ;  and  truly  it  was 
a  call  nearer,  and  I  knew  the  voice  of  my  poor  hus- 
band. It  was  some  little  time  before  they  reached 
the  camp,  and  when  he  came  into*  the  wagon  our 
meeting  was  very  silent.  We  could  not  talk  then, 
and  it  was  a  long  time  before  he  told  me  of  all  his 
dreadful  trip  and  truly  wonderful  escape. 

I  got  out  dry  clothes  for  him,  bathed  his  head, 
and  oiled  his  face  which  was  blistered,  bathed  his 
poor  feet,  and  tried  in  every  way  to  make  him  com- 
fortable. He  was  utterly  worn  out,  and  it  took 
many  days  to  pick  the  cactus  needles  out  of  his  feet. 
In  the  morning  he  told  me  of  his  narrow  escape, 
and  I  said  then  for  the  first  and  only  time,  "Let  us 
go  back;"  but  he  replied,  "No,  we  will  go  on  to- 
morrow." So>  we  again  took  up  our  journey  with 


8o        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

what  was  left  of  our  fine  herd,  thankful  to  be  to- 
gether once  more. 

We  were  then  nearing  Chimney  Rock,  which 
is  an  immense  shaft  of  granite  resembling  a  smoke 
stack,  on  the  south  side  of  Platte  river,  in  sight  of 
which  we  traveled  five  days.  The  river  here  makes 
a  great  bend,  the  road  still  leading  up  its  banks. 
The  cattle  were  growing  footsore  and  weary  and 
every  day  we  feared  that  some  of  them  would  give 
out.  The  air  was  filled  with  odors  that  were  not 
of  "Araby  the  Blest,"  the  road  being  lined  with 
carcasses  of  dead  animals,  and  I  had  to  carry  my 
camphor  bottle  in  my  hand  most  of  the  time.  I  had 
a  serious  cause  of  anxiety  at  this  time,  although 
not  personally  concerned.  Some  stock  dealers  in 
California  had  sent  east  for  ten  thousand  sheep, 
which  were  being  driven  overland  in  charge  of  hired 
drovers.  They  had  started  with  them  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Platte,  but  finding  very  poor  grass- 
determined  to  try  the  other  side.  At  the  head  of 
Grand  Island,  Nebraska,  they  attempted  to  swim 
the  sheep  across.  The  flock  becoming  frightened, 
rushed  onto  the  island  which  was  under  water,  and 
no  efforts  could  get  them  off  for  twenty- four  hours. 
Standing  in  the  water  so  long  made  their  feet  tender, 
and  as  soon  as  they  stepped  into  the  alkalie  dust 
they  became  sore  and  many  of  the  poor  creatures 
laid  down  in  the  road,  refusing  to  go  any  further, 
and  had  to  be  left.  They  were  immediately  ahead 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        81 

of  us,  and  every  morning  we  would  pass  the  remains 
of  those  that  the  wolves  had  devoured  the  night 
before.  All  day  we  would  drive  past  the  little  crea- 
tures knowing  what  to  expect  for  them.  'It  dis- 
tressed me  beyond  measure.  A  week's  rest  would 
have  saved  them,  but  the  men  would  not  wait,  s<» 
rushed  them  on,  leaving  from  twenty  to  fifty  a  dav 
for  two  or  three  weeks.  I  begged  so  hard  to  save 
one  little  lamb  that  my  husband  was  willing,  so 
I  took  it  into  the  wagon,  washed  its  feet,  oiled  and 
wrapped  them  up,  thinking  that  I  was  going  to 
have  a  fine  pet,  but  it  was  too  large  to  keep  in  such 
close  quarters.  It  would  not  even  try  to  walk,  so 
I  was  obliged  to  leave  it,  and  another  monster  of 
a  grey  wolf  had  a  feast  that  night. 


82         Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

T  was  now  the  latter  part  of  June. 
We  had  reached  a  point  of  the 
river    opposite     Fort    Laramie, 
where  we  turned  off  the  Platte, 
which    we    had    followed    up   to 
this  time,   into   what   the  guide 
book    called    the     Black    Hills. 
Ascending  a  steep  hill,  we  drove 
onto  a  small,  level  plateau  and  camped.    I  walked  to 
one  side  and  looking  down  a  precipice  saw  a  deep 
gorge  with  the  river  tumbling  and  dashing  through, 
with  none  of  the  calm,  gentle  flow  we  had  witnessed 
for  weeks.     This  was  our  last  sight  of  the  Platte 
river.     Here  the  first  antelope  and  mountain  goats 
were  in  sight,  but  kept  at  a  safe  distance. 

When  the  morning  came  the  wind  was  blowing 
a  gale,  making  traveling  impossible.  All  day  we 
were  shut  up  in  the  wagon  with  the  curtains  fast- 
ened closely  down,  with  everything  outside  anchored 
to  the  rocks,  and  the  men  in  a  ravine  some  distance 
away  guarding  cattle.  It  was  a  day  to  be  remem- 
bered, and  we  w^ere  glad  w'hen  the  sun  \vent  down. 

The  following  morning  was  like  spring  and  we 
got  off  in  good  season,  now  coming  into  the  moun- 
tains in  earnest.  We  halted  at  noon  on  the  bank 
of  a  beautiful  little  stream  called  Goose  creek.  It 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        83 

was  filled  with  speckled  trout.  Mr.  Ivins  took  out 
tackle  and  went  fishing.  I  went,  too,  but  talked 
so  much  that  he  became  disgusted  and  sent  me  off. 
Not  having  any  more  fishing  tackle  I  fixed  up  a 
thread  and  pin  hook,  and  to  my  great  surprise 
caught  a  lot  of  little  beauties  before  he  had  a  bite. 
We  staid  some  hours,  until  we  had  caught  a  fine  fry 
for  supper,  and  reluctantly  left  the  spot.  Among 
our  drove  was  an  immense  red  ox,  too  large  to 
yoke  and  we  had  no  mate  for  him.  I  never  saw 
so  large  an  one;  he  always  led  the  drove  and  was 
gentle  as  a  dog.  Mr.  Ivins  procured  a  bell  for  him, 
to  suit  his  size,  and  he  carried  himself  with  great 
dignity.  He  always  slept  near  the  wagons  and  was 
a  great  pet.  When  we  crossed  small  streams  the 
men  would  jump  on  his  back  and  ride  over.  There 
was  something  really  noble  about  him.  One  evening- 
Mr.  Ivins  said  to  me,  "If  we  get  Rouser,"  as  we 
called  him,  "through,  I  will  get  a  thousand  dollars 
for  him."  I  laughed  at  his  high  figures,  and  we 
strolled  to  where  the  old  fellow  was  lying  down, 
resting  as  we  supposed.  Mr.  Ivins  examined  his 
feet  and  said,  "I  am  afraid  they  are  growing 
tender."  He  looked  hollow  eyed  and  we  were  anx- 
ious about  him,  for  fear  he  might  be  alaklied.  The 
next  day  he  seemed  listless  but  kept  up  with  the 
drove.  We  camped  early.  By  this  time  he  did  not 
want  to  eat  but  seemed  very  thirsty,  and  would 
stay  near  the  wagons  as  if  he  did  not  like  to  be 
alone.  As  night  came  on  he  grew  worse  rapidly, 


84        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

and  by  bed  time  we  knew  that  our  poor  dumb  friend 
was  doomed.  He  moaned  like  a  human  being  in 
pain  and  would  get  up  and  try  to  follow  us.  We 
gave  him  medicine,  but  it  did  no  good,  and  he  would 
look  at  us  with  his  great  brown  eyes  in  the  most 
appealing  manner.  His  groans  became  more  dis- 
tressing, and  before  daylight  poor  Rouser  had 
crossed  his  last  river.  We  could  not  bury  him,  so 
left  him  with  his  big  bell  strapped  around  his  neck. 

Our  drove  of  cattle  was  growing  less,  forty  were 
lost  at  Grand  Island,  some  others  had  died,  one  a 
fine  cow  giving  milk,  and  now  we  took  our  coffee 
black. 

Leaving  Goose  Creek  Mountains  we  traveled 
over  a  plain  covered  with  curious  formations  of 
rock,  called  Pulpit  Rocks,  from  their  resemblance 
to  church  furniture.  They  were  from  ten  to  twenty 
feet  high,  apparently  thrown  there  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature,  with  the  level  plain  surrounding 
them.  The  road  wound  in  and  out  among  them  and 
they  were  very  interesting. 

July  first  we  came  to  the  Sweetwater  Moun- 
tains, and  crossing  the  first  range  made  our  camp 
on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  a  beautiful  stream, 
cold  and  clear  as  crystal.  We  were  quite  near  Inde- 
pendence Rock.  This  is  an  immense  rock  rising  out 
of  a  level  plain  seventy  or  an  hundred  feet  high,  on 
the  sides  of  which  hundreds  of  emigrants  had  cut 
their  names.  The  top,  which  is  almost  flat,  has 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        85 

an  area  of  three  or  four  acres  and  is  covered  with 
vegetation.  It  is  a  most  singular  hill,  being  almost 
perpendicular  on  all  sides.  A  number  of  men  were 
hard  at  work  hoisting  a  deserted  wagon  to  the  top, 
intending"  to  roll  it  off  to  celebrate  Independence 
day,  so  near  at  hand. 

The  next  day  we  went  a  few  miles  up  the  stream 
to  Devil's  Gorge,  a  wild  and  romantic  place.  The 
huge  rocks  seem  to  have  separated  to  make  room 
for  the  river  which  dashes  through  the  deep  gorge, 
rushing  and  foaming  like  a  torrent  for  half  a  mile, 
then  spreads  out  into  a  calm,  gentle  river  again 
with  grassy  banks  and  pebbly  bottom.  We  remained 
here  over  the  Fourth,  and  celebrated  by  opening 
a  demijohn  o<f  wine,  and  demolishing'  that,  and  a 
large  fruit  cake  which  was  baked  for  the  occasion 
in  our  far  away  Iowa  home. 

Our  road  led  now  through  the  mountains  and 
up  into  the  Rockies,  leaving  Sweetwater  on  the 
morning  of  July  fifth.  We  were  reaching  a  high 
altitude  going  steadily  up,  although  the  road  was 
not  very  steep,  arriving  at  South  Pass  the  same  day. 
I  rode  here  on  horseback  for  the  last  time,  past 
banks  of  snow  grown  yellow  with  age,  which  gave 
no  signs  of  melting,  although  the  sun  was  shining 
brightly. 

At  this  place  we  again  overtook  the  Cram  party 
and  traveled  together  for  several  days,  when  they 
left  us  to  hurry  forward. 


86        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

My  uncle  also  decided  that  he  should  be  getting 
on  faster,  and  joined  two  young  men  who  were 
endeavoring  to  make  good  time,  thinking  to  try 
and  reach  our  destination  and  be  ready  for  us  when 
we  should  get  there,  which  wished  for  event  seemed 
a  long  way  in  the  future.  It  was  with  a  sorrowful 
heart  that  I  saw  the  preparations  for  their  departure, 
but  I  knew  it  was  best,  and  as  I  had  begun  to  learn 
endurance  I  kept  a  brave  face  till  they  were  out  of 
sight ;  then  I  gave  up  and  felt  as  if  I  were  deserted 
by  my  best  friends,  and  tears  "made  furrows  in  my 
grief-worn  cheeks/' 

At  this  time  my  husband  had  rather  a  thrilling 
experience.  Two  of  his  cattle  had  been  found  by 
a  train  back  of  us,  and  they  had  sent  word  for  him 
to  come  after  them.  He  had  no  difficulty  in  iden- 
tifying them  as  they  were  all  branded  with  his 
initials.  He  left  us  one  bright  morning  to  go  back 
for  them.  After  spending  the  night  with  the  hos- 
pitable friends  of  his  steers,  he  started  on  with  them 
early  in  the  morning.  He  drove  quite  rapidly  in 
order  to  overtake  us  in  the  evening.  He  hurried 
them  so  that  they  were  pretty  tired,  so  stopping  be- 
side the  road  at  noon  to  let  them  graze;  he  staked 
out  his  horse,  and  making  a  pallet  of  his  blankets 
was  preparing  to  take  a  good  nap.  Just  as  he  was 
comfortably  settled  two  men  rode  up  and  said : 
"Stranger,  we  will  just  take  these  steers.''  Mr. 
Ivins  sprang  up  and  cocking  his  revolver,  said : 
"Will  you?  Let  me  see  you  try."  They  attempted 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        87 

to  parley  but  the  six  shooter  was  a  powerful  con- 
vincer,  and  they  rode  off  with  it  still  pointed  in  their 
direction,  ready  for  service  if  needed.  By  this  time 
the  noon  hour  was  over  and  Mr.  Ivins  drove  the 
steers  home  in  triumph,  in  time  to  make  the  evening 
meal.  We  now  hoped  that  we  might  reach  Cali- 
fornia by  September  first.  We  had  crossed  the 
divide,  the  crest  as  it  were,  for  from  South  Pass 
the  streams  flowr  west,  southwest,  while  on  this  side 
of  that  point  they  flow  in  an  opposite  direction. 

Driving  over  a  range  of  mountains  and  descend- 
in  a  steep  hill  we  struck  Green  River,  this  being  so 
deep  and  rapid  we  ferried  over.  There  was  a  small 
settlement  here,  just  the  ferryman  and  his  asso- 
ciates. 

We  now  turned  southwest  towards  Salt  Lake 
Valley,  where  we  intended  to  rest  and  recuperate 
ourselves  and  the  stock  in  some  of  the  grassy  val- 
leys near  the  city.  Soon  we  came  into  mountains 
so  steep  and  rocky  that  it  was  all  the  cattle  could 
do  to  get  over  them.  About  noon  we  came  to  the 
foot  of  one  with  a  rocky  surface,  perfectly  bald,  and 
so  steep  that  in  order  to  climb  the  road  the  cattle 
had  to  be  driven  zigzag.  My  husband  and  I  looked 
at  it  in  dismay,  for  how  were  the  dear  little  boy 
and  I  ever  to  reach  the  top  of  that  terrible  hill. 
After  long  deliberation  Mr.  Ivins  devised  a  plan. 
After  hitching  ten  yoke  of  oxen  to  my  wagon,  he 
took  a  rope  ninety  feet  long,  as  large  as  my  wrist, 


88        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  J  Vest  em  Days. 

with  iron  hooks  at  either  end.  This  he  fastened 
securely  into  the  yoke  of  the  lead  oxen,  then  into 
eacli  successive  yoke  till  it  reached  the  wagon,  in 
which  I  took  my  seat  hack  on  the  bed  with  my 
little  boy  in  my  arms.  The  rope  was  then  brought 
into  the  wagon  and  wrapped  around  us  several 
times  and  well  fastened.  Then  with  a  man  holding 
one  side  of  the  vehicle  and  my  husband  the  other 
the  drivers  urged  the  poor  oxen  up  the  dreadful 
road,  where  the  least  misstep  would  have  precipi- 
tated us  to  the  bottom.  In  places  the  wagon  just 
hung  by  the  tongue,  and  I  hung  onto  the  rope  for 
dear  life,  indeed.  In  this  manner  we  at  last  reached 
the  summit.  The  other  wagon  was  brought  up  in 
the  same  way  but  without  any  passengers.  Then 
the  cattle  were  driven  up,  which  took  most  of  the 
day. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         89 
CHAPTER  XIV. 


LOWLY  toiling  on  we  arrived  at 
Echo  Canyon.  Here  the  scenery 
is  almost  beyond  description. 
The  cliffs  on  either  side  of  the 
gorge  are  several  hundred  feet 
high.  Looking  up  from  the  bank 
of  Echo  Creek  the  trees  look  like 
small  shrubs.  The  sun  only 
shines  in  its  dim  recesses  a  short  time  during  each 
day,  and  in  most  places  the  walls  are  quite  perpen- 
dicular. Echo  Creek,  a  small  mountain  stream,  runs 
quite  through  the  ravine,  emptying  into  Bear  River 
at  the  foot.  The  road  crosses  it  dozens  of  times, 
so  that  the  banks  were  worn  away  by  the  numerous 
wagons  and  cattle  going  over  it,  and  made  a  steep 
pitch  driving  both  in  and  out  of  it,  the  water  being 
kept  muddy  from  the  same  cause. 

We  had  traveled  all  day  through  the  magnificent 
scenery  and  were  nearing  the  end  o<f  the  canyon. 
The  stream  grew  larger  and  the  banks  more  steep. 
I  had  ridden  all  day  and  held  on  perseveringly  at 
every  crossing  and  now  began  to  be  afarid  that  I 
should  be  thrown  out.  My  husband  thought  that 
there  could  be  some  other  way  arranged  for  me 
to  cross,  so  I  got  out  and  stood  on  the  bank 
watching  the  team  take  my  wagon  through  an  ex- 


96        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  } Test  cm  Days. 

tremely  bad  crossing.  As  it  went  down  into  the 
water  there  was  a  sudden  rumbling,  and  the  next 
moment  the  large  bog  containing  all  my  trinkets, 
keep-sakes  and  the  better  clothing  which  was  ready 
for  wearing  when  we  reached  our  journey's  end. 
plunged  into  the  creek  just  in  front  of  the  wheel 
which  crushed  into  the  side  of  the  box,  breaking  it 
in,  and  the  contents  were  scattered  into  the  mud  and 
slush.  All  my  pretty  clothes  were  spoiled.  I 
screamed  and  tried  to  stop  them,  but  just  had  to 
stand  by  and  witness  the  destruction  of  my  valu- 
able box.  After  we  got  across,  the  things  were 
gathered  up  and  dumped  into  it  and  all  loaded  into 
the  lumber  wagon.  We  went  on  a  mile  or  two 
further  and  crossed  Bear  River,  went  up  a  small 
hill  and  stopped  to  examine  the  wreck  and  dry 
the  clothes.  Everything-  was  ruined  beyond  help. 
We  spread  them  out  to  dry,  which  did  not  take  long, 
as  the  sun  was  very  hot.  Mr.  Ivins  mended  the 
box  and  piled  them  in  to  wait  for  months  to  be 
washed.  We  staid  there  all  night  and  in  the 
morning  went  up  a  long  hill,  where  we  saw  some 
machines  for  making  beet  sugar  which  the  Mor- 
mons had  taken  that  far  and  then  abandoned. 

We  were  now  in  the  midst  of  high  mountains, 
and  in  a  few  days  passed  through  Emigrant  Can- 
yon, coming  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  from  which 
Brigham  Young  first  saw  Salt  Lake  Valley.  The 
view  is  truly  magnificent;  the  whole  valley  lies 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         91 

stretched  out  before  yon,  with  its  varied  hues  of 
vegetation,  with  lakes  and  mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance. I  do  not  wonder  that  those  poor  wanderers 
thought  it  the  Promised  Land  after  their  long, 
weary  journeyings.  The  air  is  so  pure  and  clear 
one  cannot  believe  that  objects  which  seem  quite 
near  may  be  miles  away.  We  remained  here  some 
hours  to  take  in  fully  the  grandeur  of  the  scene, 
then  drove  down  through  the  mountains  and  into 
one  of  the  grassy  valleys  about  eight  miles  from 
Salt  Lake  City,  where  we  camped  for  a  week,  both 
men  and  animals  enpoying  the  needed  rest  to  pre- 
pare us  for  the  still  long  journey.  As  the  grass 
was  fine  the  stock  were  figuratively  in  clover. 

Mr.  Ivins  spent  the  days  in  the1  city  visiting 
places  of  interest  and  enjoying  the  change,  while  I 
staid  at  the  camp  and  had  a  quiet  time,  which  was 
mast  grateful  to  me  after  the  strain  and  anxiety 
of  the  past  four  months.  My  little  boy  here  learned 
to  walk  for  the  second  time  after  his  severe  illness, 
stepping  high  in  the  tall  grass. 

We  also  had  an  opportunity  to  get  the  wagons  in 
order,  to  clean  house  as  it  were,  leaving  many  arti- 
cles to  lighten  the  loads. 

About  the  tenth  of  July,  we  again  proceeded 
on  our  way,  driving  into  the  city  and  spending  the 
day,  my  husband  taking  me  to  many  places  of 
interest.  About  sundown  we  drove  out  to  the  hot 
springs  and  made  our  camp.  Here  there  are  two 


92         Pen  f^  id  it  res  of  Early  JJrcsieni  Days. 

springs  coming  ont  of  the  base  of  a  ledge  of  rocks 
at  the  right  of  the  road.  One  is  cold  and  beauti- 
fully clear,  while  the  other  is  almost  boiling  hot, 
and  only  a  short  distance  apart.  The  little  streams 
from  them  ran  across  the  road  and  emptied  into 
a  natural  basin,  forming  a  pool  large  enough  for 
bathing  and  swimming.  It  was  a  beautiful  moon- 
light night.  The  men  decided  to  go  swimming  and 
had  great  fun.  The  water  was  warm  and  cold 
in  waves  and  I  could  hear  their  shouts  and  laghter 
whenever  they  struck  a  change  of  temperature. 

While  at  Salt  Lake,  Mr.  Ivins  thought  best  to 
take  another  man,  and  on  looking  around  for  that 
purpose  found  a  young  man  by  the  name  of  Louis 
Smith  who  had  taken  passage  with  a  train  from 
Council  Bluffs.  Becoming  dissatisfied  he  left,  for- 
feiting" his  fare  for  the  remainder  of  the  way,  it 
being  paid  to  California. 

He  determined  to  work  the  rest  of  his  journey, 
and  had  taken  under  his  protection  a  man  from 
the  samq  company  much  older  than  himself  and 
was  not  willing  to  leave  him.  Louis  wanted  very 
much  to  come  with  us,  and  asked  Mr.  Ivins  to  take 
his  friend.  Mr.  Ivins  replied  that  he  had  neither 
work  or  provision  for  another  man.  Louis  asked 
what  food  he  lacked,  and  was  told  an  hundred 
pounds  of  flour  would  be  needed.  "Well,"  said  he, 
"I  have  just  ten  dollars  left;  if  you  will  take  him 
I  will  give  you  that  to  buy  some."  Mr.  Ivins  did 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.         93 

not  wish  to  take  it  but  Louis  insisted  that  he  should, 
so  they  all  came  to  the  camp.  I  liked  the  young 
Kentuckian  from  the  first  and  we  were  soon  fast 
friends.  He  was  well  educated,  pleasant  and  full 
of  fun,  making  light  of  hardships,  and  in  the  midst 
of  the  intense  realities  with  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded a  happy  heart  was  a  most  desirable  pos- 
session. 

Our  road  now  wound  up  the  valley  past  thrifty 
looking  farms  and  ranches  till  we  came)  to  Bear 
River  again.  The  course  of  this  river  being  south 
and  west,  it  makes  a  great  bend  so  that  the  emi- 
grant road  crosses  it  both  going  into  and  coming- 
out  of  Salt  Lake  Valley.  Great  Salt  Lake  lies  quite 
off  to<  the  left  some  ten  or  twelve  miles,  and  was  in 
sight  most  of  the  time,  as  the  road  was  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  on  high  ground.  At  one  of  the 
farm  houses  we  traded  my  side  saddle  for  a  sack 
of  flour,  which  made  us  easy  again  in  regard  to 
provisions. 

After  three  days'  travel  we  crossed  Bear  River 
the  second  time  camping  on  its  banks,  where  w?e 
spent  part  O'f  the  next  day.  The  dust  wras  terrible, 
a  foot  or  more  deep,  and  at  every  step  flew  up  in 
clouds  filling  the  air.  I  was  obliged  to  wear  a  veil 
and  silk  cap  and  stand  it  as  best  I  might. 

Soon  after  striking  Bear  River  we  overtook  an 
immense  drove  of  cattle,  about  one  thousand,  which 
were  being  taken  to  California  in  charge  of  drovers, 


94        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

no  owner  being  along.  We  had  traveled  all  the 
forenoon  in  their  dust  and  it  was  perfectly  unbear- 
able. We  all  stopped  for  luncheon  near  the  same 
place.  After  our  party  were  through  eating,  Mr. 
Ivins  ordered  our  men  to  hurry  and  get  into  the 
road  before  them  in  order  to  go  faster  and  so  escape 
their  dust.  The  drovers  saw  our  maneuver,  and 
with  oaths  and  shouts  rushed  their  drove  into  the 
road  just  as  my  wagon  reached  the  same  point.  The 
excitement  made  the  cattle  wild,  and  the  whole 
thousand  rushed  off  pell  mell,  with  my  wagon  in 
the  midst.  John  Gilpiirs  ride  was  tame  compared 
with  that.  A  stampede  of  cattle  must  be  seen  to 
be  appreciated.  They  become  perfectly  reckless, 
trampling  down  whatever  comes  in  their  path.  And 
so  away  we  all  went  together.  I  had  lain  down 
with  my  little  Charley  to  take  a  nap,  but  sprang 
up  and  threw  up  the  curtain  to  see  what  was  the 
commotion.  The  noise  was  like  thunder  and  they 
fairly  shook  the  earth.  The  dust  was  so  thick  that 
all  I  could  discover  was  a  sea  of  backs  with  my 
fine  yoke  of  oxen  in  the  middle,  and  amidst  it 
all  was  the  lowing  of  the  cattle  and  the  shouts  and 
oaths  of  the  miserable  ruffians  chasing  the  panic- 
stricken  animals,  who  were  crazed  with  fright. 

At  the  start  my  driver  had  jumped  to  the  head 
of  the  near  ox  in  the  wheel  yoke  of  my  team,  to 
which  he  hung  by  the  horns,  constantly  calling 
whoa.  The  faithful  creatures  were  thrown  back 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        95 

on  their  haunches  and  were  being-  dragged  by  the 
four  front  yoke.  We  rushed  on  in  that  way  for 
more  than  a  mile,  my  teami  keeping  straight  in 
the  middle  of  the  road.  In  one  place  we  went 
through  a  deep  ditch  where  the  least  deviation  would 
have  overturned  the  wagon,  but  my  trusty  team 
never  swerved.  After  what  seemed  hours  the  com- 
bined efforts  of  the  driver  and  those  two  noble  oxen 
brought  us  to  a  slower  pace,  and  the  drove  got  be- 
yond us,  still  running.  We  finally  came  to  a  stand- 
still, and  in  a  few  minutes  my  husband  overtook  us 
pale  with  afright,  to  mid  Charlie  and  me  clasped 
in  each  others  arms,  most  thankful  to  have  escaped 
with  only  a  severe  shaking  up.  So  we  drew  up  and 
camped  till  the  next  morning  to  be  sure  that  those 
villains  would  be  far  beyond  us. 


96        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  H'cstcni  Days. 
CHAPTER  XV. 

EARING  Fort  Briclger,  the  guide 
book    said,    beware    of    Indians. 
We  had  seen  a  great  many  all 
along  but  had  not  been  molested 
since  leaving  the  Platte  and  had 
not  kept  guards,  as  we  thought 
that   they    frightened   the  stock. 
Here,    however,    we    again    set 
pickets  for  the  night.     Towards  morning  w'e  heard 
several  shots  not  far  off  and  knew  that  the  redskins 
were  haunting  us,   but  they  did  not  come  to  the 
camp. 

Leaving  Fort  Briclger  off  to  our  left  we  kept  on 
over  hills  and  valleys,  plains  and  mountains,  passing 
some  fine  scenery,  but  for  the  most  part  barren 
wastes  covered  with  sage,  cactus  and  alkalie  dust. 
One  day  we  came  to  a  large  creek  with  willows,  a 
few  cotton  wood  trees  and  some  coarse  grass; 
crossing  this  we  found  the  ground  covered  with 
what  resembled  blocks  of  wood  sawed  perfectly 
smooth,  all  were  petrified  and  some  were  broken. 
1  wished  greatly  to  keep  a  specimen,  as  I  wished 
to  do  from  different  localities,  but  my  husband  ob- 
jected, saying  we  would  do  well  if  we  got  ourselves 
through  without  taking  a  load  of  stone.  So  with 
many  regrets  I  would  pass  them  by.  After  a  few 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        97 

days  we  arrived  at  a  rather  pleasant  place  with  good 
feed,  called  Grass  Valley.  Here  we  decided  to 
rest  for  a  few  days,  and  overtaking  our  friends, 
the  Cram  party,  had  a  most  enjoyable  visit.  We 
traveled  together  for  several  days,  Mrs.  Cram 
gladly  riding  with  me.  Their  horses  were  getting 
so  weak  and  poor  that  the  ladies  of  the  party  walked 
most  of  the  time. 

About  August  first  we  reached  the  head  of  Hum- 
bolt  River.  Our  only  milch  cow  had  grown  foot 
sore  and  weary,  refusing  to  go<  any  further.  We 
tried  every  means  in  our  power  to  help  her  along, 
coaxing,  driving"  and  bathing  her  feet,  but  she  was 
discouraged  and  we  had  to  leave  her  lying*  by  the 
road,  with  the  certainty  that  the  wolves  would  kill 
and  devour  her  before  another  day. 

Our  pleasant  visit  came  to  an  end  all  too  soon, 
and  one  morning  our  friends  left  us,  driving  off 
on  a  trot,  while  my  trusty  team  of  ten  horns  kept 
up  their  steady,  swinging  gait.  The  poor  dear 
cattle  seemed  to  know  how  we  had  come  to  love  and 
depend  upon  them.  They  were  not  so  many  now, 
and  I  had  learned  to>  know  each  one,  and  no  woman 
ever  cared  more  for  her  span  of  well-kept  horses 
than  did  I  for  my  trusty  oxen,  Buck  and  Berry,  the 
faithful  creatures  who  walked  at  the  wheel  of  my 
wagon  every  step  of  the  long  road  from  the  Missis- 
sippi River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  saved  the 
lives  of  my  children  and  myself  on  more  than  one 


98        Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

occasion.  Honor  to  their  memery!  On  reaching 
California  I  would  not  consent  to  their  being  sold 
to  butchers,  and  my  husband  sold  them  to  a  farmer 
who  promised  to  keep  them  till  they  died  of  old 
age,  and  I  think  he  did. 

Our  road  now  followed  the  Humbolt  River  for 
three  hundred  miles,  scarcely  leaving  its  banks.  \Ye 
crossed  it  many  times  in  search  of  good  grass. 
At  first  it  was  like  a  small  creek,  which  could  be 
forded,  but  gradually  increased  in  size  till  it  became 
a  deep  river.  At  our  last  crossing  my  husband  was 
obliged  to  prop  the  wagon  bed  up  on  blocks  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  standards  that  held 
it  in  place,  and  draw  it  across  with  ropes.  The  men 
and  stock  swam  over,  but  Charlie  and  I  were  in 
the  floating  wagon  where  the  least  mishap  would 
have  let  it  drift  off  down  the  stream.  When  we 
reached  the  shore  my  ultimatum  was  announced, 
that  from  this  on  there  would  be  no  more  crossings 
of  Humbolt  for  me,  that  I  was  fully  satisfied  with- 
out another  experience  of  that  kind.  So  we  trudged 
along  till  we  reached  the  sink  of  the  Humbolt,  Sep- 
tember fourth. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.        99 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

RRIVING  at  the  sink  of  the  Hum- 
bolt,  we  stopped  before  driving 
to  a  camping  place  to  be  sure  that 
it  would  be  a  desirable  location. 
There  were  numerous  camps  in 
sight.  Suddenly  my  husband 
exclaimed,  "By  George!  There 
are  Cram's  wagons."  "Oh  non- 
sense/' I  replied,  "they  are  through  long  before 
this."  So  to  convince  me  he  helped  me  step  up 
onto  the  wagon  tongue — the  only  lookout  in  that 
dead  level — to  see  for  myself.  Sure  enough,  there 
were  the  long,  low  black  tops  of  the  three  wagons, 
and  the  surroundings  of  what  had  been  the  most 
stunning  outfit  that  had  crossed  the  plains  that  year 
out  of  many  thousand. 

It  was  just  noon  when  we  drove  up  and  halted 
beside  them.  Of  course  there  were  the  usual  greet- 
ings, questions  to  ask,  and  rejoicings  to  meet  again. 
They  had  cured  their  hay,  as  was  the  custom,  to 
feed  on  the  desert,  and  were  busy  packing,  expect- 
ing to  start  in  an  hour  or  two. 

Their  plan  was,  to  drive  five  miles  on  to  where 
the  road  leaves  the  sink  or  lake  of  the  Humbolt, 
and  rest  there  a  while,  then  go  on  and  cross  the 
desert  of  forty  miles  that  night.  Mr.  Ivins  said; 


ioo      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

"Well,  I  am  going  to  cross  tonight,  too."  I  really 
thought  he  must  be  joking,  but  found  him  to  be 
in  sober  earnest.  This  dreaded  desert  is  a  perfectly 
barren,  alkalie  plain  stretching  from  the  Hnmbolt 
to  the  Truckee  River,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  with 
no  water  except  some  hot  soda  springs  near  the 
middle  of  the  drive.  It  is  best  to  make  the  trip  at 
night  as  the  heat  is  intense. 

When  the  Cram  train  left  my  husband  said  to 
me:  "If  you  will  have  Carl  cook  and  prepare 
things  here  I  will  go  and  make  the  hay."  The  sink 
of  the  Humbolt  is  partly  lake  and  partly  meadow 
covered  with  coarse  grass,  long  and  luxuriant.  The 
cattle  had  been  driven  into  it  and  were  having  a 
fine  meal.  It  was  then  about  one  o'clock.  It  was 
necessary  to'  cross  the  lagoon  in  order  to  find  the 
best  grass  for  hay. 

The  lumber  wagon  was  unloaded  and  the  box 
taken  off;  it  was  then  launched  like  a  boat,  when 
with  implements  brought  for  the  purpose  the  hay- 
makers embarked,  were  poled  across,  and  were 
soon  doing  the  farming.  They  cut  and  dried  grass 
till  almost  sun  clown,  then  loading  it  into  the  box 
boat  brought  it  over  where  it  had  to  be  unloaded, 
the  box  placed  on  the  wheels  and  then  loaded  up 
again.  There  were  also  two  large  tanks  to  be  filled 
with  water,  which  had  first  to  be  put  in  place. 
Meanwhile,  Carl  and  I  had  worked  like  bees,  baking 
bread,  dried  currant  pies,  pork  and  beans  and  cook- 


Pen-  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       101 

ing  dried  apples  and  rice,  had  sorted  over  things 
discarding'  every  superfluity,  and  when  the  hay- 
makers returned  supper  was  ready  and  my  wagon 
packed  and  arranged  for  the  night.  The  cattle 
had  fed  well  and  were  rested,  and  by  dark  we  were 
ready  for  the  move.  Little  Charlie  was  put  to  bed 
and  I  followed.  The  horses  were  so  worn  down 
that  they  were  not  fit  to  ride  so  the  men  walked, 
and  drove,  and  the  long  dreaded  journey  across  the 
desert  was  begun. 

About  ten  o'clock  \ve  reached  the  point  where 
the  road  turns  away  from  the  sink  and  stopped  to 
rest,  when  my  husband  came  into  the  wagon  to  lie 
down  awhile.  Suddenly  we  heard  a  familiar  voice 
exclaim,  "Well,  how  did  you  get  here?"  My  hus- 
band sprang  up  and  out  to  find  Mr.  Cram  on  the 
white  mule,  who  told  us  that  his  train  was  only  a 
short  distance  off  ready  to  start  again.  The  two 
men  went  away  together  to  see  the  women  oi  the 
party  and  Mr.  Ivins  did  not  come  into>  the  wagon 
again.  It  was  very  dark  but  the  wrhite  road  could 
be  plainly  discerned.  After  a  short  rest  our  train 
pulled  out  and  I  went  to  sleep,  but  was  dimly  con- 
scious that  our  speed  was  much  greater  than 
usual. 

The  poor  cattle  seemed  to<  realize  the  danger 
of  delay  in  that  alkalie  plain,  which  \vould  prove  a 
veritable  Death  Valley  to  them  if  found  tardy.  At 
midnight  the  cattle  were  fed  and  watered  and  then 


IO2      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

hurried  forward  till  four  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
when  we  came  to  deep  sand  which  extended  to 
the  Truckee  river  some  ten  miles.  The  order  was 
now  given  to  unyoke  the  oxen,  and  men  and  beasts 
laid  down  on  the  ground  to  rest  for  an  hour.  We  had 
hardly  gotten  settled  when  Mr.  Cram,  who  seemed 
ubiquitous  came  jingling  up,  and  with  the  most  ex- 
travagant exclamations  of  astonishment  inquired 
by  what  road  we  came,  saying  his  train  was  miles 
behind.  On  explaining  we  found  that  having  no 
means  to  carry  water  they  had  turned  off  the  road 
at  Hot  Springs  to  cool  some  for  their  horses,  ana 
we  had  passed  while  they  were  there. 

After  a  short  rest  we  resumed  our  weary  way. 
At  seven  o"clock  I  got  up  and  raising  my  curtains 
to  take  a  view  of  the  surroundings,  what  was  my 
surprise  to  see  Mrs.  Cram  and  Mr.  Ivins  walking 
in  front  of  our  train  in  the  sand  which  was  shoe  top 
deep.  I  called  to  them,  and  Mrs.  Cram  came  in 
to  ride  and  take  breakfast  with  me. 

The  animals  seemed  to  smell  the  water  to 
which  we  were  coming,  running  so  fast  that  men 
had  to  be  sent  forwrard  to  keep  them  back.  About 
ten  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Truckee  River,  a  clear, 
cool  mountain  stream  with  good  grass  near.  The 
cattle  did  not  seem  thirsty  but  rushed  into  the  water 
and  stood  laving  their  sides  and  cooling  their  feet; 
while  we  tired  mortals  sat  around  on  the  grass 
resting  and  congratulating  ourselves  that  one  of  the 


Pen-  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       103 

most   dreaded   stages   of   our   journey   was   safely 
passed. 

We  decided  to  remain  at  Truckee  that  night, 
making  our  camp  as  soon  as  the  other  friends  ar- 
rived. After  spending  a  pleasant  evening  together 
we  decided  that  we  would  not  part  company  again, 
and  kept  our  good  resolution  for  the  space  O'f  three 
days.  After  remaining"  at  Truckee  all  night  we 
again  plodded  on. 

We  turned  directly  away  from  the  river  into  the 
foot  hills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  that 
forenoon  coming  to  the  first  forest.  The  trees  were 
very  large  and  beautiful,  and  it  seemed  grand  after 
the  long  dusty  roads  over  which  we  had  traveled 
so  long,  and  the  shade  and  odor  of  the  pines  was 
most  refreshing.  Louis  Smith  was  wild  with  en- 
thusiasm insisting  that  I  should  take  a  walk  with 
him  in  the  woods. 

After  the  evening  work  was  done  he  began  car- 
rying the  large  pine  cones  with  which  the  ground 
was  covered,  making  ready  for  a  jubilee.  He  kept 
at  work  till  it  was  quite  dark,  building  pile  after 
pile  for  bonfires.  Then  began  his  celebration  by 
setting  fire  to  them  one  at  a  time,  and  when  the 
blaze  was  highest  and  the  roar  loudest,  he  would 
whistle,  sing  darkey  songs,  dance,  pat  juba  and 
shout,  making  the  woods  resound.  If  any  of  the 
men  went  to  bed  he  would  pull  them  out,  won- 


1O4      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

tiering  if  they  had  no  glory  in  their  souls.  This 
he  kept  up  till  midnight,  when  we  begged  him  to 
quiet  down,  but  I  was  sorry  to  stop  his  fun. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       105 
CHAPTER  XVII. 


EXT  day  our-  road  was  over  some 
low  mountains  covered  with 
loose  shingly  rocks  which  moved 
at  every  step.  Mr.  Cram  and  I 
took  a  long  walk  and  had  a  very 
serious  conversation,  in  which 
he  urged  me  as  a  brother  to 
influence  my  husband  to  remain 
with  them  for  the  remainder  of  the  journey,  saying 
that  it  would  be  best  on  many  accounts,  particularly 
on  my  own.  After  passing  the  shingly  mountains, 
we  came  down  into  a  beautiful  valley  called  Truckee 
meadow,  with  fine  grass  and  plenty  of  water,  Sep- 
tember eighth.  The  place  seemed  made  expressly 
to  feed  and  strengthen  up  the  half-starved  stock, 
thus  enabling  them  to  haul  the  loads  over  the 
Sierras. 

As*  soon  as  he  discovered  the  grass  to  be  so 
fine  Mr.  Cram  declared  his  intention  of  remaining 
there  two  weeks.  Of  course  our  doing  so  was  out 
of  the  question,  and  my  husband  replied,  "Time 
is  too  precious  with  us ;  we  must  leave  tomorrow/' 
and  they  walked  out  to  where  the  stock  were  luxuri- 
ating in  the  fragrant  grass.  Our  sturdy  cattle 
were  all  right,  but  their  horses  were  perfectly  worn 
out  and  miserably  poor.  If  they  laid,  or  which  was 


106      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

more  often  the  case,  fell  down,  they  could  not  get 
up  without  help.  The  men  would  take  blankets 
and  slip  under  them  and  set  them  on  their  feet, 
then  they  could  walk  or  stagger  along;  all  but  the 
white  mule  which  was  as  jolly  as  ever. 

In  the  morning  I  went  to  make  a  farewell  visit 
to  Mrs.  Cram  and  found  her  sitting  on  a  box  crying 
bitterly;  upon  inquiry  I  found  that  the  precious  box 
contained  all  their  pretty  keepsakes  and  elegant 
wardrobe,  and  that  it  must  be  left,  as  the  horses 
could  not  haul  anything  further,  and  that  she  would 
have  nothing  in  which  to  make  a  respectable 
appearance  upon  reaching  civilization.  While  we 
were  condoling  with  each  other  upon  our  trials, 
our  husbands  came  up  and  wanted  to  know  the 
cause  of  the  present  trouble.  Upon  being  informed 
Mr.  Ivins  said :  "Oh,  don't  cry,  I  will  take  your 
lx)x  to  Marysville  and  leave  it  at  the  Adams  express 
office  subject  to  your  order.  How  will  that  suit 
you?''  She  at  once  accepted  the  offer  and  was  all 
smiles. 

"\Vell,"  said  Mr.  Cram,  "if  you -are  so  willing 
to  do  a  good  turn  perhaps  you  will  take  a  box  for 
me."  Mr.  Ivins  assured  him  that  he  would  gladly 
do  so,  and  both  boxes  were  loaded  into  our  lumber 
wagon  without  delay.  The  second  box  contained 
a  complete  set  of  carpenter's  tools,  which  if  we 
had  known  would  have  saved  us  much  trouble  a  few 
days  later,  and  ignorance  was  not  bliss  in  this 
instance. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       107 

Carl  had  taken  a  lot  of  provisions  out  of  the 
wagon  toi  sun,  and  as  there  was  a  trading  post 
near  by  the  proprietor  was  looking  around  to  see 
what  the  emigrants  would  sell  or  leave.  He  imme- 
diately wanted  some  of  our  supplies.  We  were 
sure  by  this  time  that  we  would  have  provisions 
to'  spare,  so  Mr.  Ivins  sold  him  an  hundreds  pounds 
of  flour  for  a  dollar  a  pound,  and  a  large  ham  for 
thirty  dollars,  both  of  which  he  carried  off  in  tri- 
umph. It  seemed  a  big  price  but  it  was  worth  all 
that  to  bring  them  that  far.  We  still  had  a  month's 
provision,  and  expected  to  reach  Marysville  in  two 
weeks  at  most. 

After  a  most  delightful  visit  with  our  life-long 
friends,  on  the  morning  of  September  ninth  we 
bade  them  good-bye  with  many  tears  on  my  part, 
for  I  needed  friends  then  if  ever,  and  \ve  were 
starting-  on  a  perilous  road  over  the  mountains. 
The  ascent  of  the  Sierras  began  now  in  earnest. 
The  road  was  very  rough,  in  many  place  covered 
with  round  boulders  which  made  it  almost  impas- 
sible. I  was  obliged  to  lie  down  most  of  the  day. 
In  the  afternoon,  as  he  usually  did,  Mr.  Ivins  went 
forward  to  look  for  a  camping  place.  We  often 
had  to  leave  the  road  to  find  good  grass.  There 
were  places  about  twenty-five  miles  apart  where  it 
could  be  found,  that  being  a  day's  journey  for 
oxen.  After  he  went  away,  the  road  becoming 
somewhat  smoother,  I  went  to  sleep,  not  waking  till 
quite  late. 


io8      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Da\s. 

I  foiind  Carl  driving  my  team.  On  asking 
where  my  regular  driver  was  Carl  told  me  that 
soon  after  Mr.  Ivins  left  Henry  had  taken  a  sack 
of  crackers  out  of  the  wagon  and  gone  away,  saying 
that  he  was  tired  of  being  so  slow,  and  that  a  few 
days  would  take  him  to  settlements.  There  was 
nothing  to  be  done,  as  we  could  not  overtake  him, 
but  we  feared  the  worst.  It  was  growing  late  and 
there  were  still  no  signs  of  my  husband  and  I  was 
greatly  worried.  It  was  almost  sundown,  when 
we  heard  away  off  to  the  right  a  faint  hello,  and 
saw  Mr.  Ivins  coming  towards  us.  We  waited 
till  he  came  up  when  he  lectured  us  roundly  for 
being  sa  heedless  in  not  watching  for  him.  He 
had  found  a  fine  camp  a  mile  or  so  off  the  road,  and 
had  been  trying  to  attract  our  attention  for  some 
time  in  order  to  go*  there,  but  we  were  past  the 
turn  off.  I  wanted  to  go  back  but  he  was  cross 
and  said,  "No,  we  will  go  on  till  wre  find'  another 
place,"  and  on  we  went. 

I  retired  to  my  abiding  place  too  distressed  to 
say  anything  more.  It  was  dusk  when  we  drove 
up  to  what  seemed  to  be  a  small  lake,  and  the 
order  was  given  to  unyoke.  The  cattle  were  driven 
to  the  lake  to  drink  but  turned  away  without  tast- 
ing the  water.  What  was  our  consternation  to  find 
it  to  be  an  alkalie  lake,  which  looked  like  ashes 
and  water  mixed,  not  fit  to  be  used  at  all,  and  all 
together  the  outlook  was  most  distressing.  Carl 
made  the  fire  and  cooked  the  supper  by  the  light 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       109 

of  a  dim  lantern,  making  the  coffee  out  of  a  little 
water  which  was  left  over  in  the  cans,  keeping 
about  a  quart  to  drink.  I  fixed  my  house  and  Carl 
brought  me  my  supper  but  I  could  not  eat  and  spent 
the  time  in  tears.  Little  Charlie  was  put  to  bed  and 
Mr.  Ivins  retired  also.  After  all  was  quiet  I  lighted 
my  lamp  and  sat  down  to  sew.  I  had  been  quietly 
at  work  making  a  small  wardrobe  out  of  some  of 
the  clothes  which  were  in  the  broken  box  before 
mentioned,  for  I  realized  that  I  might  need  it  before 
we  arrived  in  California,  or  very  soon  after.  There 
was  only  one  more  garment  to  finish  and  I  thought 
that  I  had  better  get  it  done.  I  sewed  till  about  ten 
o'clock.  Outside  the  poor,  thirsty  cattle  lowed,  the 
coyotes  barked  and  snarled,  the  owls  hooted  and 
the  night  hawks  screamed.  It  seemed  as  if  we 
were  deserted  by  God  and  man.  I  thought  that  I 
would  go  to  bed  and  sleep  if  possible,  but  found 
that  I  could  not  helpi  myself;  that  now,  indeed, 
trouble  was  in  store  for  us.  I  woke  my  husband 
and  told  him  the  situation.  He  would  not  believe 
me  at  first,  but  was  soon  convinced,  and  God  only 
knows  the  fear  and  agony  o<f  that  dreadful  night. 
I  tried  to  be  brave  for  the  sake  of  my  husband  and 
child,  and  at  three  o'clock  there  came  to  us  a  dear 
little  daughter,  with  no  one  near  to  help,  comfort 
or  relieve. 

After  doing  what  he  could  for  me,  my  husband 
wrapped  the  little  one  in  a  blanket  and  laid  her  in 
my  arm.  It  had  turned  very  cold  and  a  dreadful  chill 


no      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

came  on.  My  husband  put  warm  covers  over  me 
and  tried  to  warm  me  by  holding  me  in  his  arms. 
A  bed  had  been  made  for  Charlie  on  the  spring  seat. 
He  was  put  there  and  we  watched  for  daylight  with 
aching  hearts.  At  the  first  faint  glimmer  of  dawn 
Mr.  Ivins  dispatched  a  man  on  horseback  with  a 
can  for  water  to  Pea  Vine  springs.  It  was  five 
miles  and  breakfast  was  late  that  morning.  My 
husband  inquired  of  the  first  train  that  came  past 
for  some  elderly  woman  to  come  in  and  see  me 
and  the  somewhat  unexpected  guest.  About  ten 
o'clock  a  good  Samaritan  came  in,  looked  at  the 
baby,  said  a  few  kind  words  to  me  and  left  me  to 
my  fate. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       1 1 1 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


TAYING  at  this  place  was  of 
course  impossible.  So  after  noon 
they  hitched  up  and  drove  about 
five  miles  to  a  reasonably  good 
camping  place  and  laid  by  for 
three  days.  It  is  useless  to  say 
how  I  got  along.  I  simply  en- 
dured without  complaint.  I  was 
so  sure  that  both  the  baby  and  I  would  die  that  all 
fear  \vas  gone.  I  was  not  even  nervous,  and  waited 
for  the  end,  only  anxious  about  my  husband  and 
little  boy.  Charlie  just  worshiped  the  little  sister 
and  was  so  good  and  sweet,  sitting  by  me  so  pa- 
tient and  gentle.  I  might  have  known  that  I  was 
the  mother  of  an  angel  even  then.  My  out-door 
life  kept  me  from  taking  cold,  and  I  made  the  best 
of  the  somewhat  difficult  situation  and  was  quite 
cheerful  when  my  husband  was  with  me.  Carl, 
my  little  Dutchman,  Avas  a  friend  in  the  fullest 
sense  of  the  word,  and  all  the  men  were  gentle  and 
quiet,  knowing  that  the  little  woman  who  had 
shared  their  hardships  was  in  dire  necessity  and 
danger. 

It  was  impossible  for  us  to  stop  longer  as  the 
snow  would  soon  begin  to  fall  in  the  mountains,  so 
I  told  my  husband  that  I  was  able  to  travel  and 
wre  resumed  our  journey. 


ii2      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

The  roads  were  very  rough,  up  and  down  hills, 
or  rather  mountains,  with  here  and  there  a  level 
stretch,  making  our  progress  very  slow.  On  the 
morning  of  September  fourteenth  we  came  to  a 
most  dangerous  part  of  the  road,  called  the  Devil's 
Elbow.  It  was  a  huge  ledge  of  rocks  with  one 
corner  jutting  out  into  the  road  which  had  led 
along  the  brow  of  a  mountain  for  miles.  There 
was  just  room  for  a  wagon  to  go  around  and  none 
to  spare.  The  turn  was  very  short,  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  road  was  a  precipice  of  thousands 
of  feet  down.  Just  before  we  came  to  this  Mr. 
Ivins  threw  up  the  curtain  of  the  wagon  to  let  me 
see  the  grandeur  of  the  scene.  We  were  near 
the  summit  of  the  Sierras  above  the  clouds.  There 
were  just  the  notched  and  jagged  edges  of  the 
mountains  in  view,  with  the  tops  of  the  trees  when 
the  clouds  lifted  for  a  few  moments.  I  did  not 
know  of  the  narrow  pass  till  we  were  quite  up  to  it. 
Then  my  husband  told  me  I  must  not  be  afraid, 
that  he  would  take  good  care  of  his  little  family. 
He  put  two  men  with  the  oxen  to  guide  and  drive 
them,  leaving  the  drove.  All  the  others  with  my 
husband  went  on  the  lower  side  of  the  wagon, 
pushing  it  towards  the  rock,  and  with  great  caution 
we  passed  it  in  safety.  The  other  wagon  was  less 
troublesome,  being  narrower  and  not  having  so 
precious  a  load. 

The  cattle  were  driven  around  crowded  up 
towards  the  rock.  My  poor,  tired  husband  breathed 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       113 

easier  when  the  last  creature,  man  or  beast,  was 
past  the  dangerous  place,  where  a  single  slip  or 
misstep  would  have  precipitated  the  unfortunate 
object  hundreds  of  feet  clown  the  cliff.  We  hurried 
on,  that  night  camping  on  the  summit. 

The  morning  of  September  fifteenth,  three 
cheers  were  given  with  a  will,  in  honor  of  our  safe 
deliverance  from  dangers  passed,  and  the  prospect 
of  a  speedy  drive  down  the  western  slope.  Ho\\  - 
ever,  we  were  too  sanguine  as  the  result  proved. 
When  all  was  ready  to  start  Carl  was  directed  to 
drive  my  wagon  to  the  front,  as  usual.  We  had 
gone  only  about  an  hundred  yards  when  striking 
a  stump  the  hind  axletree  was  broken  short  off. 
Mr.  Ivins  looked  at  the  damage,  ordering  the  other 
wagon  and  stock  driven  down  to  a  level  place  about 
a  mile  further  on,  which  he  had  seen  when  recon- 
noitering  the  road.  The  driver  whipped  up  and  in 
turning}  out  to  pass  us  struck  a  stone  and  snap 
went  the  coupling  pole  of  that  wagon,  so  there  we 
were  stuck  fast. 

Our  tools  had  all  been  lost  or  left,  and  Mr.  Ivins 
had  only  an  axe,  hatchet  and  jack-knife  with  which 
to  repair,  and  no  iron  or  lumber  of  any  kind.  It 
had  rained  and  sleeted  all  the  morning,  freezing 
onto  the  top  of  the  wagon  which  now  began  to 
melt  and  run  through,  and  for  the  first  time  on  the 
journey  my  bed  was  getting  wet  with  no  way  to 
help  it,  and  we  were  almost  frozen. 


H4      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

I  covered  up  the  babies  as  well  as  I  could  and 
tried  to  keep  them  warm,  thinking  little  of  myself. 
My  husband  coming  in  to  find  how  I  was  getting 
on,  seeing  the  state  of  things,  broke  down  for  the 
first  time,  exclaiming,  "Oh !  I  shall  lose  you  yet  on 
this  dreadful  journey." 

Dear  little  Charlie  tried  to  comfort  us  in  his 
baby  fashion,  but  the  tears  would  come  and  we  wept 
together. 

My  husband  was  chilled  through,  and  alto- 
gether discouraged,  hardly  knowing  what  to  do  and 
seemed  to  depend  on  me  for  advice.  He  had  eaten 
no  breakfast  as  Carl  could  not  cook  in  the  storm, 
and  I  saw  that  he  could  not  plan  or  work  until  he 
could  be  made  more  comfortable,  and  needed  warm 
clothing  first  of  all.  So  putting  them  on  we  all 
crept  under  the  covers  till  we  got  warm.  It  was 
also  important  that  he  should  have  a  nourishing 
meal;  as  there  was  a  trading  post  near  I  asked 
him  to  go  and  see  what  he  could  find.  He  did  so, 
buying  a  dried  applie  pie  and  a  glass  of  milk,  for 
which  he  paid  a  dollar,  but  it  did  him  many  times 
that  amount  of  good. 

While  he  was  eating  his  luncheon  he  related 
his  mishaps  to*  the  trader,  who  told  him  that  a  short 
distance  further  on  was  a  wagon  that  had  been 
broken  down  by  the  snow,  which  fell  to  the  depth 
of  twenty-five  feet  there  in  winter,  and  perhaps 
he  might  find  something  with  which  to  repair 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       115 

the  damage.  He  went  at  once  and  found  the  axles 
still  whole,  but  they  were  for  a  narrow  tread,  while 
ours  was  a  wide  tread  wagon.  He  brought  them 
back  however,  glad  to  find  anything  in  this  case  of 
necessity.  Coming  back  to  the  camp  he  dispatched 
two  men  to  cut  a  slim  pine  sapling,  as  there  were 
no  other  trees  there.  With  that  and  chains  he 
soon  fixed  the  lumber  wagon.  Then  turning  his 
attention  to  my  house  he  proped  it  up,  taking  off 
the  hind.  axle.  Placing  them  in  the  fire  together 
with  those  he  had  found  would  char  them,  then 
shape  them  down  in  a  slanting  manner  until  they 
were  of  the  proper  width ;  then  taking  a  bolt  heated 
it  red  hot  and  bored  holes  in  them,  and  with  a 
strong  bolt  and  nut  fastened  them  together.  Put- 
ting the  wheels  on  he  found  they  fitted,  so  we  were 
in  running  order  once  more. 

It  would  have  facilitated  matters  greatly  if  we 
had  known  that  Mr.  Cram's  box  contained  a  com- 
plete set  of  carpenter's  tools.  By  the  time  the 
repairing  was  done  it  was  almost  night,  so  we 
hitched  up  and  drove  down  to  the  level  place  before 
spoken  of  and  camped  for  the  night,  tired  but 
happy. 

September  sixteenth  we  started  early,  glad  to 
leave  that  land  of  break-downs,  that  day  passing  a 
mining  camp  called  Seventy-Six,  where  we  heard 
that  a  man  came  there  the  day  before  nearly  worn 
out  and  starving,  and  knew  from  the  description 


n6      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

that  it  must  have  been  our  deserter,  Henry.  No 
one  knew  -where  he  had  gone,  however,  and  we 
never  heard  of  him  again.  We  began  to  see  now 
and  then  a  mining  camp  or  solitary  shanty.  The 
roads  were  not  so  bad,  although  we  traveled 
slowly  with  the  wheels  locked,  it  being  down  grade, 
through  the  Beckworth  Cut  Off,  and  into  a  fine 
opening  called  Grass  Valley,  where  we  remained  a 
day  for  the  cattle  to  have  a  good  feed.  A  ranch- 
man visited  us  here,  who  had  tried  for  half  a  day  to 
overtake  us,  to  induce  Mr.  Ivins  to  come  to  his 
ranch  and  be  company  for  him  and  his  wife.  All 
he  asked  was  that  we  should  come  and  live  in  one 
of  his  houses;  that  he  should  have  all  the  pasture 
he  needed,  and  that  an  hundred  dollars  a  month 
would  be  the  salary,  with  nothing  to  do  but  what 
he  wished.  But  our  faces  wrere  straight-forward, 
and  ease  had  no  charms  for  us  then.  A  mine  owner 
made  a  more  liberal  offer  still  if  we  would  only  stop 
with  him.  Women  were  scarce  and  most  attrac- 
tive to  the  poor,  homesick  men  alone,  so  far  from 
their  families,  and  I  was  treated  like  a  superior 
being.  I  had  by  this  time  begun  to  get  put  of  the 
wagon  in  the  evening.  The  weather  was  lovely  and 
we  went  on  our  way  rejoicing. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       117 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Y  September  twentieth  we  arrived 
at  Mount  Hope  Branch,  eight 
miles  out  of  Marysville.  As  we 
came  down  the  mountains  we 
had  a  beautiful  view  of  Sacra- 
mento  Valley,  with  its  varied 
hues  of  green,  russet  and  brown, 

with   the   Sacramento   river   running  like   a   silver 

thread  towards  the  \vest. 

The  good  grass  at  Mount  Hope  induced  us  to 
rest  there  for  five  days  taking  a  new  lease  of  life. 
My  husband  went  into  the  town  each  day,  de- 
lighted to  meet  men  who  could  talk  of  something 
besides  the  worn  out  subjects  of  g-rass,  water,  bad 
roads  and  alkalie  dust. 

On  the  twenty-fifth  of  September  we  proceeded, 
going  into  Marysville  in  the  afternoon.  What  came 
near  proving  a  most  serious  accident  occurred  on 
this  short  drive.  Quail  were  very  numerous  along 
the  road  and  Mr.  Ivins  could  not  resist  the  temp- 
tation to*  shoot  some,  so  came  to  the  wagon  and 
took  out  his  gun.  After  bagging  a  dozen  or  two 
he  brought  it  back  and  put  it  in  its  place,  fastened, 
as  he  supposed,  by  the  straps  to  the  wagon  bows. 
The  children  and  I  were  asleep,  and  he  was  careful 
not  to  disturb  us.  On  going  over  a  rough  place 


u8      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

in  the  road  the  gun  fell  down  close  to  my  head  and 
went  off  within  a  few  inches  of  my  face,  setting 
fire  to  the  cover.  I  was  so  stunned  for  a  few  min- 
utes, that  I  did  not  know  what  had  occurred.  The 
screams  of  the  children  recalled  me,  but  even  then 
I  did  not  know  what  had  happened  till  Mr.  Ivins 
rushed  up  in  great  affright  and  exclaimed  :  "Oh ! 
are  you  shot?"  and  blaming  himself  for  careless- 
ness. By  this  time  the  cotton  cover  had  burst  into 
a  blaze,  and  it  took  hard  work  to  extinguish  it.  I 
began  to  think  I  bore  a  charmed  life.  It  was  a 
dreadful  shock  and  had  I  been  at  all  nervous  would 
have  gone  hard  with  me.  But  so  far  I  had  been 
perfectly  cool  in  every  danger  we  had  encountered, 
a  trait  I  inherited  from  my  father  who  was  a  sol- 
dier, an  officer  in  the  regular  army. 

At  Marysville  Mr.  Ivins  drove  at  once  to  the 
express  office  and  deposited  the  boxes  belonging  to 
our  friends,  the  Crams,  and  passing  through  the 
town  made  our  camp  under  some  large  willow  trees 
on  the  bank  of  Feather  River,  where  we  staid  two 
days. 

We  were  now  on  the  level  road  leading  to.  Sac-' 
ramento.  Our  men  still  remained  with  us,  and 
would  do  so  till  we  reached  that  place.  The  heat 
was  intense  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  but  the  morn- 
ings and  evenings  were  cool  and  pleasant.  Our 
camp  was  close  to  the  stage  road  leading  to  Sacra- 
mento. It  was  a  beautiful  sight  to  see  those  elegant 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western'  Days.       119 

mahogany  colored  coaches,  trimmed  with  gold, 
drawn  by  four  spans  of  fine  horses,  with  shining 
harness,  going  at  a  full  gallop  on  a  road  level  as 
a  floor. 

September  2Qth  we  broke  up  our  pretty  camp, 
starting  down  the  same  road,  but  at  quite  a  dif- 
ferent gait.  The  heat  was  frightful,  the  poor  cattle 
suffering  dreadfully,  to  say  nothing  of  human  be- 
ings. I  began  to  feel  quite  bright  and  enjoyed 
seeing  the  farms,  ranches  and  other  signs  of  civili- 
zation. The  sun  beat  down  furiously.  Among  the 
drove  I  noticed  a  poor  little  red  steer  who  was 
almost  overcome  and  could  not  find  any  shade,  pant- 
ing for  breath;  with  his  tongue  hanging  out  he 
would  run  a  little  ways  and  then  stop.  I  watched 
him  curious  to  know  why  he  did  so,  and  found 
that  it!  was  from  one  telegraph  pole'  to  another, 
where  he  would  back  up  into  the  long  slim  line  of 
shade  it  cast.  After  a  while  he  discovered  a  little 
shade  behind  the  wagon,  and  kept  close  to  it  for 
shelter. 

About  noon  we  came  to  a  wayside  inn,  putting 
up  there  for  the  rest  of  the  day  and  night.  The 
people  kept  the  floors  and  porches  wet  to  cool  the 
air.  The  next  morning  we  resumed  our  march, 
and  the  twenty-eighth  of  September  arrived  at  a 
point  near  Sacramento,  making  our  camp  on  the 
American  river  under  some  beautiful,  large  live 
oak  trees. 


I2O      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

My  husband  and  all  the  men  went  into  town 
except  Carl,  who  staid  with  me.  Louis  Smith  ex- 
pected to  receive  a  letter  from  a  brother  living  in 
Stockton  advising  him  what  he  should  do.  The 
others  went  to  look  for  work,  and  Mr.  Ivins  to 
decide  upon  a  place  to  take  his  family.  I  was  almost 
jubilant,  for  now  I  began  to  see  the  end  of  this  most 
trying  and  tedious  journey. 

After  they  had  all  gone  Carl  made  me  a  com- 
fortable couch  where  Charley,  baby  and  I  had  a  nice 
change  from  the  close  quarters  of  our  wagon  home. 
We  had  named  the  little  girl  Sierra  Nevada,  in 
honor  of  her  birth  place.  She  was  doing  well  and 
was  an  object  of  great  interest  to  us  all.  I  did  not 
want  to  give  her  that  name,  but  her  father  wished 
it  so  I  consented.  Carl  and  I  had  a  long  consulta- 
tion as  to  what  was  best  for  him  to  do.  He  did  not 
want  to  leave  us,  and  I  certainly  did  not  wish  to 
have  him  do  so,  and  we  settled  it  that  he  should 
stay  until  some  desirable  opportunity  presented 
itself.  He  seemed  very  happy  that  he  was  so  well 
provided  for,  and  I  was  also,  that  I  could  still  have 
my  faithful  Carl.  Late  in  the  afternoon  Mr.  Ivins 
came  back  to  tell  me  that  he  had  rented  a  ranch 
across  the  river,  five  miles  from  the  city.  The  pro- 
prietor had  a  young  wife  who  would  be  delighted 
to  have  a  neighbor  and  companion.  There  was  a 
nice  cottage  and  plenty  of  land,  and  that  we  were 
to  go  over  to  it  the  next  day,  stopping  in  the  city 
to  buy  furniture  on  the  way.  I  was  wild  with  de- 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       121 

light  and  could  scarcely  believe  that  I  should  so 
soon  be  in  a  home  of  my  own.  Clark  and  the  others, 
except  Louis,  soon  returned  to  stay  the  night,  get 
their  possessions,  say  good-bye  and  each  go  their 
way  the  following  morning. 

Just  as  supper  was  ready  Louis  came  dashing 
up,  exclaiming,  "I  have  it  and  you  must  share  my 
luck."  After  the  small  excitement  was  over  he  an- 
nounced that  he  had  received  a  letter  from  his 
brother  at  Stockton,  enclocing  a  draft  for  one  hun- 
dred dollars,  and  that  we  should  have  it  all  but 
enough  to  take  him  to  Stockton.  Of  course  that 
was  out  of  the  question,  but  it  was  most  generous 
in  Louis,  and  we  appreciated  his  kindness  greatly. 
Louis  was  almost  offended  but  had  to  give  up  his 
plan. 

The  men  seemed  loathe  to  say  good-bye,  but  by 
nine  o'clock  next  morning  all  were  gone  except 
Louis,  who  lingered  to  go  into  the  city  with  us  and 
say  good-bye  there.  At  ten  o'clock  we  were  again 
on  the  road,  Louis  driving  my  wagon  to  be  with  me 
a  while  longer,  to  tell  me  all  his  hopes  and  fears, 
and  how  much  he  loved  us.  My  tears  would  come, 
for  I  had  learned  to  look  upon  the  noble  boy  almost 
as  a  brother.  When  we  reached  the  city  he  left  us 
with  a  sorrowful  face,  and  I  never  saw  him  again. 

Carl  came  and  drove  my  wagon  for  a  while  as 
we  passed  through  the  street,  but  soon  my  husband 
came  and  took  his  place  and  Carl  went  to  the  other, 
the  cattle  following  from  force  of  habit. 


122      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

Emigrant  teams  were  plenty,  but  mine  was  an 
extra  good  one  and  we  had  not  gone  far  into  the 
city  until  some  one  said :  "Hello,  stranger,  what 
will  you  take  for  that  wagon  ?"  Mr.  Ivins  replied  : 
"One  hundred  dollars."  The  answer  was :  "Well, 
unload/'  I  got  out  with  the  children,  the  l^ed  and 
other  contents  were  loaded  into  the  lumber  wagon, 
and  a  place  fixed  for  us  to  ride  the  short  distance 
we  expected  to  go.  We  had  not  yet  reached  the 
business  part  of  the  city.  Shortly  after,  another  per- 
son exclaimed,  "Hello,  Ivins,  when  did  you  get  in?" 
And  a  man  whom  my  husband  had  known  in  a 
neighboring  town  to  ours  in  Iowa  made  himself 
known,  asked  where  we  were  going  and  invited  us 
to  his  brother's  house  to  dinner ;  said  that  his  family 
were  on  their  way  to  the  coast  by  land;  describing 
that  part  of  the  state  as  a  land  flowing  with  milk  and 
honey,  fine  feed  and  fat  cattle,  the  hills  covered  with 
flowers  and  wild  oats,  and  even  Paradise  itself 
would  be  dull  compared  with  its  glories;  also,  that 
we  would  reach  there  in  three  days,  going  right 
along  with  them ;  that  he  had  some  cows  that  could 
go  along  with  our  drove;  that  he  would  help  drive 
them,  and  that  Mrs.  Hunt,  his  wife,  could  assist 
me  if  need  be,  and,  in  fact,  everything  be  lovely. 
I  was  bitterly  opposed  to  the  plan,  but  my  husband, 
contrary  to  his  usual  good  judgment  believed  all 
Hu'nt  told  him,  and  it  did  no  good  for  me  to  object. 
Accordingly  he  wrote  to  the  man  whose  ranch  he 
had  engaged,  giving  it  up.  We  staid  all  night  at 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       123 

the  Hunts,  starting  early  in  the  morning  for  Para- 
dise, ordinarily  called  Petaluma.  We  could  not 
cook  now,  having  no  conveniences,  so  bought  pro- 
visions for  the  trip  already  cooked.  Among  other 
eatables  Mr.  Ivins  bought  a  stack  of  pies  a  foot  high. 
They  were  made  with  rancid  lard  and  it  made  me 
sick  to*  even  look  at  them,  and  with  things  thrown 
into  the  wagon  as  they  were,  our  culinary  depart- 
ment was  somewhat  demoralized.  I  was  terribly 
cramped  for  room,  so  that  Mr.  Ivins  was  obliged  to 
sleep  on  the  ground,  which  he  had  never  done  be- 
fore. 

,  We  endured  the  first  night,  and  the  next  day  I 
tried  to  pack  things  to  be  more  comfortable,  but 
it  was  of  no  use  and  the  second  one  I  laid  down 
in  the  crowded  place  with  my  little  ones  and  forgot 
my  troubles  for  three  days.  How  the  poor  chil- 
dren fared  I  never  knew. 

There  was  no  stopping  nowr.  We  would  be 
obliged  to  pasture  the  stock  which  would  cost  at 
least  thirty  dollars  a  day,  which  we  could  not  af- 
ford to  pay.  No>  one  came  near  me.  Mr.  Ivins  and 
Carl  had  to  drive  team  and  cattle,  while  the  Hunts 
were  absorbed  in  their  own  affairs.  Their  cows 
were  going  with  our  drove,  and  that  was  all  they 
wanted  of  us  anyway.  My  husband  said  that  the 
baby  cried  most  of  the  time,  and  dear,  twenty- 
months-O'ld  Charley  would  alternately  pet  it  and  cry 
himself.  Carl  would  sometimes  take  him  in  his 


124      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

arms  and  carry  him  while  driving  cattle;  and  my 
husband  walked  all  day  and  drove  oxen  with  a  burn- 
ing fever.  This  state  of  things  lasted  for  three 
days,  when  my  uncle,  Dr.  Galland,  overtook  us. 
They  had  reached  Marysville  after  we  left  there, 
coming  by  way  of  Carson  Valley.  Having  received 
letters  from  me  that  we  were  going  to  the  coast  and 
being  uneasy  about  me,  he  took  horse  and  followed, 
reaching  us  at  the  third  nights'  camp  below  Sacra- 
mento. 

My  uncle  seeing  my  condition  tried  to  rouse  me 
without  avail.  So  taking  out  medicine  he  admin- 
istered it,  helped  to  care  for  the  children  and  took 
his  place  by  the  camp  fire  to  watch  with  me.  The 
next  morning  I  was  still  delerious.  My  uncle  had 
Mr.  Ivins  ride  his  horse  and  staid  with  me,  cared 
for  the  children,  still  giving  me  medicine.  He  tried 
to  have  us  stop  but  the  urgency  of  the  case  would 
not  admit  of  it. 

The  roads  were  good,  but  nothing  worried  or 
aroused  me.  That  night  again  my  uncle  watched 
with  me  \vhile  the  others  slept.  I  was  burning  up 
with  fever,  and  he  gave  me  all  the  water  I  wanted 
to  drink.  .  The  poor  little  baby  wailed  and  moaned, 
but  it  was  too  cold  to  take  it  out  of  the  wragon- 
Some  time  towards  morning  he  heard  me  moving, 
and  coming  to  me  found  me  up  on  my  knees  in  the 
front  of  the  wagon  with  my  baby  in  my  arms  trying 
to  throw  it  out.  He  reasoned  with  me,  asking  me 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       125 

what  I  wanted  to  do,  talked  to  me  and  soothed  me, 
saying,  "My  child,,  it  is  your  baby."  I  looked  at 
him  for  a  few  minutes  trying  to  understand.  All 
at  once  I  smiled  and  said :  "Why,  so  it  is,"  and 
quietly  laid  down  with  it  in  my  arms,  and  both  fell 
asleep.  The  morning  found  me  free  from  fever  but 
very  weak.  My  uncle  at  once  went  on  to  Petaluma 
and  hiring  a  spring  wagon  sent  it  back,  with  orders 
to  have  my  bed  laid  in  it  and  hurry  back  with  me 
to  the  hotel.  But  the  Hunt  family  crowded  into  it, 
giving  me  just  a  seat.  Charley  was  put  on  a  cushion 
at  my  feet,  and  I  held  the  baby  in  my  lap.  As  we 
rode  along  I  would  reel  from  side  to  side,  and  had 
to  hold  on  with  all  my  poor  strength  to  keep  from 
falling  out.  In  this  way,  about  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  we  drove  up  to  the  hotel  at  Petaluma, 
where  my  uncle  had  engaged  rooms  for  us.  My 
friend,  Mr.  I.  G.  Wicker  sham,  met  me  and  lifting 
me  out  carried  me  into  the  parlor  and  set  me  in  a 
chair,  and  I  again  forgot  my  troubles. 


126      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


\YAS  put  to  bed  and  my  uncle 
watched  over  me  for  two  weeks, 
when,  thanks  to  his  skill,  I  be- 
gan to  improve.  By  this  time 
my  children  were  both  sick  and 
my  husband  down  with  moun- 
tain fever.  And  altogether  we 
were  in  a  most  deplorable  state. 
We  were  paying  twenty-five  dollars  a  week  at  the 
hotel  with  very  poor  accommodations.  Our  cattle 
were  turned  loose  in  the  hills  with  no  one  to  look' 
after  them  but  Carl,  and  he  just  a  half-grown  boy. 
As  soon  as  he  could  leave  us  my  uncle  hurried  back 
to  Marysville,  sold  his  outfit  and  brought  my  aunt 
back  to  Petaluma,  where  they  at  once  rented  a  house, 
and  took  us  all  home  to  nurse  us  back  to  health; 
and  most  gently  and  tenderly  did  they  care  for  us 
and  help  us  regain  our  exhausted  strength.  Had 
it  not  been  for  them,  my  more  than  father  and 
mother,  this  family  would  have  ended  then  and 
there.  As  it  was,  with  all  their  care,  the  month  of 
February  found  me  just  able  to  begin  housekeeping 
in  a  small  cottage  of  two  rooms  which  my  husband 
had  built,  lined  with  cloth  and  papered;  poor  and 
cheap  as  it  was,  it  w-as  a  veritable  palace  to  me,  for 
was  it  not  my  home,  after  six  months  spent  in  an 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       127 

ox  wagon.     The  cosy  nest  was  our  home  for  eight 
months. 

The  town  which  contained  only  four  hundred 
inhabitants  when  we  arrived  there  grew  quite  rap- 
idly. But  change  was  the  order  of  events,  and  we 
kept  pace  with  them.  Our  cattle  were  still  in  the 
hills,  hut  the  owner  could  now  see  to  them,  and 
they  were  fat  and  fine. 

We  had  made  many  friends,  mostly  men,  but 
gentlemen  who  were  enterprising,  enthusiastic  and 
who  never  said  fail.  My  husband  now  decided  to 
go  into  the  stock  and  dairy  business.  He  took  a 
ranch  about  two  miles  from  town',  suited  to  the  pur- 
pose, built  a  house  and  we  were  soon  at  home  to 
our  friends  there.  The  hills  closed  in  on  every  side, 
although  the  road  to  town  was  perfectly  level,  going 
through  the  valleys.  It  was  beautiful  to  look  at,  but 
lonely  in  the  extreme.  We  were  nearly  a  mile  from 
the  nearest  neighbor,  and  they  only  men.  I  was 
alone  with  my  children  most  of  the  time  for  the 
first  four  months,  by  husband  being  away  attending 
to  business  interests.  There  was  an  Indian  village 
about  two  miles  further  on  called  The  Rancharee, 
and  so  many  Indians  passed  the  house  drunk  and 
disorderly  that  I  was  in  a  constant  state  of  fear. 
There  were  also  California  lions  in  the  hills  about, 
and  coyotes  so  bold  that  they  stole  our  provisions, 
which  I  tried  to  keep  in  a  sort  of  cage  hung  outside ; 
to  say  nothing  of  grizzly  bears,  for  a  mother  and 


128      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

two  cubs  were  killed  only  half  a  mile  from  the  house 
soon  after. we  moved  out  there,  and  just  across  the 
road  was  a  ledge  of  rocks  which  I  was  sure  sheltered 
rattle  snakes.  Mr.  Ivins  ridiculed  the  idea,  but  go- 
ing- there  one  day  to  gather  wild  roses  I  heard  a 
sound  that  I  could  not  mistake,  so  I  charged  little 
Charley  not  to  cross  the  road.  Time  proved  that  I 
was  right,  for  two  years  afterwards  a  person  going 
there  heard  the  same  sound  and  set  fire  to  the  bushes 
covering  the  ledge,  when  hundreds  of  the  reptiles 
crawled  out  and  were  killed. 

It  \vas  some  time  before  we  got  into  running- 
order  for  cheese  and  butter  making,  but  when  we 
did  found  it  a  most  lucrative  business,  a  great  deal 
of  work  but  fine  profit.  A  dollar  a  pound  for  butter 
and  fifty  cents  for  cheese  will  do  very  well  when 
you  have  eighty  cows  giving  milk,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  growing  calves  and  pigs,  and  money  flowed 
in  plentifully. 

Mr.  Ivins  was  so  \vell  pleased  that  he  wanted  to 
build  a  better  house  and  make  it  a  permanent  home, 
but  I  could  not  think  of  spending  my  life  and 
raising  my  children  there,  and  was  dissatisfied  and 
homesick  for  companions  and  more  refined  sur- 
roundings. 

We  were  constantly  having  some  grand  scare 
or  hairbdeadth  escape.  An  incident  worth  relating 
occurred  soon  after  we  moved  out  to  the  ranch.  Mr. 
Ivins  had  bought  three  hundred  chickens,  paying  a 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       129 

dollar  apiece  for  them,  and  had  built  a  chicken 
house  of  red  wood  slabs  on  the  hillside  back  of  the 
house,  near  a  clear  spring  which  gave  us  our  water 
supply.  In  a  short  time  they  began  to  disappear. 
It  was  a  mystery  where  they  went  as  the  door  was 
locked  at  night,  and  there  was  just  an  opening  less 
than  two  feet  square  for  them  to  go  in  and  out. 
One  night  I  was  awakened  by  the  excited  breathing 
of  my  husband  who  was  dressing  himself  as  fast  as 
possible.  He  said  there  was  a  commotion  among 
the  fowls,  and  rushed  off  to  see  what  it  could  be. 
While  he  was  gone  I  dressed  myself  and  called  the 
hired  man.  In  a  short  time  Mr.  Ivins  came  back 
and  told  me  that  there  was  something  in  the  chicken 
house,  and  that  he  had  fastened  up  the  small  door, 
and  for  us  to  go  with  him  and  see  what  was  the 
matter.  So  John  took  the  ax,  Mr.  Ivins  his  gun 
and  I  a  piece  of  candle,  and  proceeded  to  the  scene 
of  action.  The  only  noise  was  the  fluttering  of  the 
chickens.  Mr.  Ivins  opening  the  large  door,  set  the 
candle  on  the  ground  inside,  and  as  he  did  so  saw 
the  blazing  eyes  of  some  animal.  Stepping  back 
quickly  and  fastening  the  door  he  took  aim  straight 
at  the  eyes  and  fired.  The  chickens  flew  in  all  di- 
rections putting  out  the  candle.  At  the  same  mo- 
ment there  was  a  terrific  crash  and  something  came 
across  the  house  almost  knocking  off  the  slabs.  We 
all  ran  in  different  directions.  After  waiting  a 
while  as  there  was  no  more  noise  we  proceeded  to 
investigate.  We  had  no  more  ammunition,  so  it  was 


130      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

rather  a  dangerous  undertaking.  Procuring  another 
candle  Mr.  Ivins  opened  the  door  by  degrees,  and 
seeing  the  creature  still  immovable  went  in  and 
found  it  to  be  an  immense  lynx,  as  large  as  a  six 
months  old  calf.  His  solitary  load  of  shot  had  taken 
effect  directly  between  the  eyes.  We  dragged  his 
catship  down  to<  the  house  setting  him  up  on  the 
back  porch  where  he  was  an  object  of  much  curi- 
osity. My  little  boy  called  it  the  big  pussy. 

One  lovely  day  in  the  latter  part  of  the  summer 
Mr.  Ivins  went  to  Tomales  for  a  load  of  vegetables. 
It  being  fifteen  miles  out  he  started,  very  early, 
taking  the  ox  team  which  served  for  all  occasions, 
sometimes  as  a  carriage.  After  he  left  the  hours 
dragged  slowly,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  day  were 
a  week  long,  that  night  never  would  come.  Drunken 
Indians  rode  past  making  the  air  hideous  with  their 
whoops  and  howls,  but  no  other  human  being  came 
in  sight.  After  what  seemed  a  day  almost  intermin- 
able the  night  closed  down.  I  put  my  little  ones 
to  bed  and  waited.  Outside  the  cloth  and  paper 
house  the  coyotes  barked,  and  there  were  all  sorts 
of  alarming  sounds.  I  felt  as  if  I  should  almost 
die  of  fright.  I  could  not  leave  or  carry  my  chil- 
dren, and  the  nearest  neighbor  was  almost  a  mile 
away.  It  was  midnight  when  I  heard  a  shout  on 
the  hill  back  of  the  house,  and  shortly  after  my  hus- 
band came,  driving  the  big  ox  wagon  straight  down 
a  steep  hill  a  half  mile  high,  without  any  signs  of 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       131 

a  road.  He  had  turned  off  the  main  road  to  find  a 
shorter  route  and  had  driven  over  hills  and  ravines, 
which  he  could  do  as  there  were  few  trees.  But 
I  think  it  was  the  only  time  that  a  loaded  wagon 
was  ever  driven  straight  up  and  down  those  Peta- 
luma  hills.  All  the  vegetables  in  the  state  would  hot 
have  tempted  me  to  live  over  again  that  dreadful 
day.  I  knew  of  the  grizzly  bears  that  had  been 
killed  so  near  the  place,  and  although  my  husband 
assured  me  that  dead  grizzlies  would  not  hurt  me, 
I  was  afraid  there  might  be  live  ones  left. 


1 32      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

CHAPTER  XXL 

HILE  we  were  waiting  for  affairs 
to    get    into   running   order    for 
business,  we  had  leisure  to  take 
many  short  trips  to  places  of  in- 
terest   in    the    vicinity,    one    of 
which    was    particularly    enjoy- 
able.    Quite    a    party    was    ar- 
ranged to  go  on  a  clam  bake  to 
Tomales   Bay  on  the  ocean,  fifteen  miles  distant, 
camping  over  night.     There  were  about  thirty  in 
the  party.    We  started  at  ten  o'clock  one  lovely  June 
morning,  a  merry  party,  in  all  sorts  of  conveyances, 
even  to  a  lumber  wagon  bedded  with  hay — mostly 
men,  as  women  were  scarce. 

The  ride  wras  through  the  foothills  of  the  coast 
range  of  mountains  which  were  covered  with  wild 
oats,  California  poppies  and  other  wild  flowers,  with 
now  and  then  live  oak  trees  looking  very  like 
orchard  trees,  with  wide  spreading  shade.  We 
stopped  at  noon  in  a  convenient  spot  with  a  small 
spring  for  our  picnic  lunch.  Driving  on  just  before 
sunset  we  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  last  hill.  On 
reaching  the  summit  a  magnificent  sight  met  our 
eyes.  No  words  can  express  the  grandeur  of  the 
scene.  Beyond  the  small  promontory  which  makes 
the  bay,  the  Pacific  stretched  one  grand  expanse  of 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       133 

water,  smooth  as  glass,  the  sun  hanging  red  above 
it,  and  in  the  foreground  the  little  bay  with  its  green 
borders  coming  close  to  the  shore.  We  drew  up 
and  waited  to  see  the  sun  sink  like  a  ball  of  fire  into 
the  water,  then  driving  on  down  the  hill,  made  our 
camp,  and  while  the  men  were  putting  up  the  tents 
got  supper  and  made  the  beds  before  dark.  There 
was  little  sleep  for  we  sat  by  the  camp-fire  and  told 
stories  and  sang  songs  till  far-  into  the  beautiful 
moonlight  night ;  then  after  the  women  and  girls 
had  retired  the  men  serenaded  us  until  almost  morn- 
ing. After  breakfast  most  of  the  party  went  across 
the  bay  to  the  main  shore,  leaving  a  Mrs.  Thompson 
and  me  at  the  camp,  as  we  both  had  children  with 
us.  They  crossed  the  bay  in  small  boats,  taking 
baskets  to  bring  back  the  spoils,  returning  about 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  loaded  down  with 
clams,  muscles,  sea  weed  and  beautiful  shells.  Mr. 
Ivins  had  found  a  number  of  beautiful  shells  com- 
monly called  sea  eggs,  fine  specimens,  not  large 
but  perfect.  On  reaching  the  camp  as  he  took  his 
basket  down  from  his  shoulder  where  he  had  carried 
it  he  crushed  all  but  two.  I  still  treasure  one  of 
them  as  a  memento  of  a  most  enjoyable  trip.  After 
having  a  fine  dinner  of  clams  and  other  fish,  we 
started  home  about  six  o'clock.  The  moonlight  ride 
was  beautiful,  as  we  did  not  reach  Petaluma  till 
after  midnight. 


134      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 
CHAPTER  XXII. 

IFRIEND  of  ours,  Mr.  Hulet,  had 
married  the  daughter  of  an  old 
Spaniard,  Signor  Bohockus, 
who  owned  many  leagues  of 
land,  one  of  the  early  Spanish 
grants.  Those  old  land  owners 
kept  many  retainers  dependent 
upon  them,  and  when  money 
was  needed  he  would  have  his  flocks,  herds  and 
manather  of  horses  which  roamed  over  his  broad 
acres  of  hill  and  meadow  driven  up,  and  as  many 
as  were  needed  sold,  at  which  time  money  would 
be  plenty.  The  round-up  generally  lasted  two  weeks, 
after  which  there  was  a  good  time,  ending  with  a 
fandango  and  barbecue.  Everybody  for  miles 
around  was  invited.  Mr.  Hulet  had  asked  us  to 
come  to  the  next  one,  which  would  be  in  the  spring. 
One  night  about  nine  o'clock  a  spring  wagon  drove 
up  with  a  message  from  Mr.  Hulet  to  come  to  the 
fandango,  that  he  would  send  us  home  whenever 
we  wanted  to  come. 

We  at  once  dressed  and  taking  the  baby,  left 
Charley  with  John.  After  a  drive  of  five  miles  we 
arrived  at  the  place  of  festivties.  The  whole  house, 
a  large  adobe,  was  thrown  open  and  brilliantly 
lighted,  and  dancing  was  going  on  to  the  music  of 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       135 

Spanish  guitars.  We  entered  and  were  most  cor- 
dially greeted  by  the  host,  and  introduced  as 
Signor  and  Signora  Ivins.  The  baby  was  taken 
to  the  nursery,  a  long  room  having  beds  and  cra- 
dles, with  nurses  in  attendance,  where  there  were  at 
least  thirty  babies  being  cared  for.  The  little 
Sierra  was  a  most  accommodating  child,  and  opened 
her  big  blue  eyes  very  wide  to  .see  the  small  Spanish 
boys  of  six  months  old  or  less  dressed  in  short  pants, 
bolero  jackets,  and  the  finest  of  linen  cambric 
shirts,  trimmed  with  dainty  thread  and  Valenciennes 
lace,  and  cunning  silk  socks  and  slippers.  They 
were  too  comical  and  pretty. 

We  returned  to  the  salon  and  joined  the  throng. 
Mr.  Hulet  brought  up  a  tall  Spaniard,  mentioned 
my  name  and  his.  He  bowed  and  offered  his  arm 
which  I  took,  and  we  stepped  into  the  circle  of 
waltzers.  One  could  not  help  dancing  with  such 
a  partner,  so  round  and  around  we  went.  I  could 
not  ask  him  to  stop,  but  we  did  when  the  music 
ceased.  Later  Mrs.  Hulet  took  me  to  the  supper 
room  to<  see  the  tables  before  they  were  demolished, 
and  to  the  kitchen  where  the  waiters  were  carving 
a  whole  ox,  which  had  been  roasted  and  was  steam- 
ing hot.  It  was  all  so  interesting  to  me,  but  strange ; 
so  like  a  foreign  country.  At  one  o' clock  I  took  my 
sleeping  baby  and  the  conveyance  took  us  home 
after  a  most  delightful  evening.  One  of  my  friends 
sent  me  a  fine  pony  and  I  was  getting  quite  inde- 
pendent, riding  into  town  often,  also  going  witk  my 


136      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

husband  to  hunt  cattle,  and  it  was  delightful  riding 
over  these  beautiful  hills.  One  clay  I  was  going  into 
town;  the  wind  was  blowing  a  gale,  there  was  a 
long  ravine  to  pass  through  where  the  sweep  was 
greatest;  when  about  the  middle  of  this  I  saw  a 
carriage  coming1,  out,  and  what  was  my  surprise 
and  delight  to  meet  our  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cram, 
,011  their  way  out  to  visit  us.  They  had  a  big  laugh 
at  my  expense.  I  suppose  that  I  looked  the  perfect 
country  woman,  my  hat  blown  onto  the  back  of  my 
neck,  my  riding  skirt  filled  with  wind  and  the  pony, 
Flossy,  going  at  a  keen  gallop.  I  turned  back  with 
them,  glad  to  welcome  them,  and  we  had  a  week 
to  be  remembered,  filled  with  reminiscences  of  our 
never-to-be-forgotten  journey,  and  anticipations  for 
the  future. 

And  now  work  began  in  earnest.  Making  butter 
and  cheese  is  no  child's  play,  although  I  had  plenty 
of  help  and  every  convenience  for  making  it  as 
easy  as  possible,  and  it  brought  in  lots  of  yellow 
gold.  The  knowledge  of  our  prosperous  business 
became  known  and  visitors  were  numerous  at  the 
ranch  to  see  the  process  which  I  had  learned  front 
an  eastern  cheese-maker,  and  to  eat  the  curd  and 
drink  the  milk  and  cream.  One  August  day,  when 
we  felt  more  tired  than  usual  a  purchaser  came,  and 
in  an  hour's  time  everything  was  sold,  including 
four  tons  of  cheese  on  the  shelves.  In  another  hour 
I  was  getting  clothes  ready  for  my  children  and 
preparing  to  leave  that  land  of  grizzlies,  coyotes  and 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       137 

rattlesnakes — the    latter    a    local    institution,    how- 
ever. 

In  a  few  days  we  bade  good-bye  to  the  lonely 
ranch,  which  I  even  then  began  to  regret,  spending 
the  last  two  weeks  at  the  home  of  my  uncle,  Dr. 
Galland,  in  Petaluma.  Our  passage  was  engaged 
on  the  steamer  Sierra  Nevada,  which  sailed  Sep- 
tember fifth.  Our  friends,  when  they  found  that 
we  had  decided  to  leave,  did  everything  in  their 
power  to  keep  us,  and  I  began  to  fear  that  we  had 
made  a  mistake  in  leaving  the  state,  but  my  uncle 
and  aunt  intended  to  return  east  in  the  spring,  and 
there  were  other  dear  friends  at  the  end  of  the  an- 
ticipated journey.  If  my  husband  engaged  in  busi- 
ness again  it  would  be  permanent,  for  as  he  said  he 
never  put  his  hand  to  the  plow  and  looked  back. 
The  days  passed  all  too  quickly.  The  clear  friends 
just  showered  us  with  kindness,  but  they  could  not 
hold  back  Father  Time. 

The  small  stream  upon  which  Petaluma  is  sit- 
uated is  an  arm  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  is  very 
crooked,  the  tide  coming  in  twice  a  day,  and  there 
is  a  run  of  five  miles  in  order  to  make  two,  and 
the  little  steamer  could  only  come  in  and  out  with 
the  tide.  We  were  to  go  by  the:  Isthmus  o*f  Nica- 
ragua, in  order  to  visit  a  place  near  San  Juan,  where 
Mr.  Ivins'  sisters  had  lived,  and  were  looking  for- 
ward to  a  pleasant  journey. 

On  the  morning  of  September  fourth  the  house 


138      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

was  crowded  with  friends,  mostly  men,  to  say  good- 
bye, and  wish  us  Godspeed.  There  were  few  women 
there  then  and  I  had  been  treated  like  a  queen  by 
them  all,  and  my  husband  was  proud  and  happy  to 
have  it  so.  The  captain  of  the  boat  said  he  would 
wait  for  us  as  long  as  possible,  but  the  bell  kept 
ringing,  and  finally  a  messenger  came  to  say  that 
we  must  come  at  once  or  there  would  be  no  water. 
So  with  about  thirty  as  escort  we  rushed  down  to 
the  boat  wdiich  pushed  off  at  once.  When  \ve  ar- 
rived at  the  end  of  the  creek,  about  five  miles  down, 
two  hack  loads  of  friends  were  there  before  us 
to  say  one  more  good-bye,  which  was  sorrow- 
fully given,  for  now  we  began  to  realize  what  we 
were  giving  up,  and  that  a  long  weary  road  lay 
between  us  and  the  old  home  in  Iow7a.  We  arrived 
in  San  Francisco  in  the  afternoon,  stopped  at  a 
hotel  till  the  next  afternoon  when  we  went  on  board 
the  steamer,  selected  our  room  and  seats  at  table, 
and  at  four  o'clock  the  huge  steamer  \vith  seven 
hundred  passengers  on  board  left  her  moorings  and 
slowly  steamed  out  of  the  Golden  Gate  into  the 
broad  Pacific,  "Btorne  on  the  sand  of  the  sea  and  the 
swelling  hearts"  within  her. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       139 
CHAPTER  XXIII. 


HE  sun  was  low  in  the  horizon  as 
we  took  our  course  south  past 
the  rocks  which  guard  the  Gold- 
en Gate,  where  numerous  seals 
and  sea  lions  were  rolling  and 
basking  in  the  balmy  September 
evening.  For  a  few7  hours  all 
went  well,  the  accommodations 

were  of  the  best  while  joy  and  gladness  seemed  to 

rule  the  hour. 

I  had  with  me  as  traveling  companion  a  young 
girl,  a  sister  of  my  friend,  Mrs.  Cram,  who  was 
returning  to  the  States,  from  a  visit  to  her  sister  at 
Shasta  City,  California.  Her  vivacity  soon  at- 
tracted a  number  of  young  people  and  drew  around 
us  a  pleasant  circle  of  gentlemen.  My  room  was 
headquarters  for  a  merry  company,  and  while 
I  was  too  sea-sick  to  take  any  part  in  the  enjoyment, 
it  was  pleasant  to  have  them  near  me.  For  twelve 
days  I  battled  with  that  miserable  ailment  during 
the  day,  but  after  dark  I  could  make  up  for  lost 
time.  M'r.  Ivins  was  not  much  better  and  the  two 
children  wrere  just  qualmish  enough  to  make  them 
quiet  and  gentle.  The  days  were  uneventful,  much 
after  the  order  of  all  ocean  trips,  a  world  in  itself, 
till  we  reached  the  Gulf  of  California,  where  we 


140      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

encountered  a  terrific  storm.  The  steamer  which 
was  a  side-wheeler  rolled  from  side  to  side.  As 
our  berths  were  across  from  the  cabin  to  the  guards 
at  one  moment  I  would  be  standing  on  my  feet  and 
the  next  on  my  head.  The  barber  shop  was  torn 
away  and  part  of  one  of  the  wheel  houses.  The 
great  danger  was  that  the  engines  would  give  out, 
in  which  event  we  would  certainly  have  been  found- 
ered. The  passengers  were  ordered  to  their  rooms, 
the  captain  assuring  us  that  if  human  exertion  could 
save  us  he  would,  but  there  must  be  no  confusion. 
We  watched  anxiously  for  morning  with  but  faint 
hope  of  escaping  shipwreck.  However,  with  morn- 
ing when  the  sea  became  more  calm,  I  returned  to 
to  my  normal  condition.  We  made  but  one  stop 
between  San  Francisco  and  the  isthmus,  at  a  small 
coaling  station  called  Mansanillo  on  the  coast  of 
Mexico.  This  of  course  was  an  important  event  to 
both  ourselves  and  the  natives  who,  half-clothed, 
rowed  around  us  in  boats,  and  pelted  us  with 
oranges  till  we  were  all  well  supplied  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  journey  on  the  Pacific.  After  many 
days  spent  out  of  sight  of  land  the  little  village  with 
its  bamlxx)  and  adobe  houses  and  luxurious  vegeta- 
tion looked  very  beautiful.  We  longed  to  go  on 
shore,  but  this  was  impossible,  as  we  wyere  anchored 
some  distance  out  in  the  bay.  We  traveled  several 
days  in  sight  of  one  of  the  Mexican  volcanoes  which 
was  in  a  state  of  eruption ;  one  can  scarcely  imagine 
the  grandeur  of  the  sight.  At  night  the  flames 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       141 

mounted  almost  to'  the  zenith,  while  during  the  day 
it  seemed  a  dense  cloud  of  black  smoke,  a  verit- 
able pillar  of  fire  which  went  before  us  for  several 
days,  reminding  us  of  the  children  of  Israel.  We 
were  too  great  a  distance  to  distinguish  the  outline 
of  the  mountain,  but  the  knowledge  that  in  this 
instance  distance  lent  safety  to  our  position  con- 
soled us  for  the  loss.  We  also  caught  a  faint  sight 
of  the  water  volcano,  a  much  more  uncommon  phe- 
nomenon. The  weather  was  so  intensely  warm  that 
we  \vere  obliged  to  keep  our  doors  open  for  ventila- 
tion, and  whenever  I  raised  up  to  relieve  myself 
the  gentleman  across  the  cabin  seemed  to  be  keeping 
me  company.  One  day  I  laughed,  sick  as  I  was; 
he  returned  my  sickly  smile  and  this  was  our  intro- 
duction. That  evening  when  I  came  out  of  my 
room  he  was  waiting  to  make  himself  known  to  me, 
and  give  me  his  name  and  address,  when  I  intro- 
duced him  to-  my  husband  and  friend.  He  proved 
to  be  a  Mr.  Coleridge  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.  We 
quite  condoled  with  each  other,  deciding  that  we 
had  the  worst  cases  of  mal  de  mere  on  the  steamer. 
From  that  on  he  became  quite  confidential,  told  me 
that  he  was  coming  home  to  marry  the  sweetest 
girl  in  the  States,  that  all  his  worldly  goods  were 
done  up  in  a  bandana  handkerchief,  that  if  he  lost 
that  he  might  as  well  jump  overboard  at  once.  I 
did  not  tell  him,  although  I  wanted  to  do  so,  that 
I  was  wearing  at  that  time  a  skirt  quilted  full  of 
double  eagles,  which  I  was  sure  weighed  a  ton.  I 


142      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

had  also  made  a  chamois  skin  vest  for  my  husband 
done  in  the  same  way,  so  we  were  by  no  means 
featherweights. 

The  steamship  company  charged  fifty  per  cent, 
to  take  care  of  our  money  for  us  and  then  we  were 
in  danger  of  losing  it.  There  was  a  revolution  going 
on  in  Gautamala,  and  Walker's  filibusters  had  over- 
run the  country  and  were  confiscating  everything 
available,  as  we  found  to  our  discomfiture  before 
reaching  the  steamer  on  the  Atlantic  side.  Another 
special  friend  was  a  gentleman  by  the  name  of 
Springer,  a  bachelor,  who  approached  us  through 
my  little  three-year-old  boy,  who  seemed  a  veritable 
little  man,  never  having  had  playmates  and  from 
the  journeys  he  had  made.  As  there  were  no  other 
children  on  board  mine  were  the  pets  and  playmates 
of  every  one  and  I  had  very  little  care  of  them. 

September  seventeenth  we  arrived  at  San  Juan 
Del  Sur,  and  disembarked  to  take  transfer  hacks  for 
the  twelve  miles  of  land  carriage  over  the  mountains 
lying  between  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Lake  Nica- 
ragua. These  vehicles  were  like  an  excursion  car 
with  seats  running  lengthwise,  with  the  driver  out- 
side. Our  party  of  fourteen  completely  filled  one, 
but  the  team  of  four  mules  was  all  too  small  to  draw 
the  load.  Walker's' men  had  taken  all  the  good  ones 
leaving  only  these  miserable  church  mice. 

We  started  on  our  perilous  journey  about  ten 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  making  a  steady  ascent  for 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       143 

six  miles  to  the  summit  and  nearly  the  same  dis- 
tance down,  to  the  little  town  of  Virgin  Bay  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  on  Lake  Nicaragua.  We  had 
not  proceeded  far  before  the  men  were  compelled  to 
walk,  who  from  time  to  time  were  joined  by  the 
women,  till,  to  my  dismay,  I  found  myself  alone 
with  my  children  and  the  driver,  they  having  dis- 
tanced us,  being  able  to  out-walk  the  little  mules. 
We  had  a  large  hamper  of  provisions  done  up  before 
leaving  the  steamer,  which  was  very  fortunate,  for 
these  same  Walker's  men  had  confiscated  most  of  the 
provisions  also,  leaving  the  inhabitants  almost  desti- 
tute, and  most  of  the  passengers  went  hungry. 

It  was  some  time  after  noon  when  we  reached 
the  summit  and  halted  at  a  shanty  built  of  bamboo, 
where  water,  lemonade  made  of  limes,  and  I  suppose 
stronger  drinks  were  sold.  The  party  had  all 
left  their  packages  and  satchels  in  the  hack  except 
Mr.  Coleridge  who  very  carefully  carried  his  red 
bandana  bundle.  They  were  all  out  of  sight  when 
we  drove  up,  but  lying  on  the  counter  in  plain  view 
was  the  precious  bundle.  I  saw  at  once  that  he  had 
laid  it  down  to  rest  and  walked  off  and  forgotten 
it,  and  the  proprietor,  a  native,  had  not  suspicioiied 
its  value.  I  very  indifferently  asked  the  driver  to 
hand  it  to  me,  and  I  put  it  with  my  belongings. 
After  the  driver  had  refreshed  himself  and  given 
the  poor  mules  water  we  started  again,  had  not  gone 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  when  we  met  Mr. 


144      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

Coleridge  coming  back  on  a  run ;  his  face  was  crim- 
son with  the  heat  and  he  seemed  almost  exhausted. 
I  tried  to  attract  his  attention,  but  he  shook  his 
head  and  kept  on.  I  then  called  and  held  up  the 
bundle,  when  he  stopped  and  got  into  the  hack 
almost  given  out.  He  thanked  me  profusely  for 
bringing  it  to  him,  but  did  not  divulge  its  contents. 
Mr.  Springer  also  entrusted  to  me  a  good  sized  grip, 
and  in  return  said  that  he  would  take  charge  of 
little  Charlie  all  the  way  over  if  I  would  claim  that 
as  my  satchel ;  so  altogether  I  was  quite  weighed 
down  with  responsibility.  It  was  well  I  did  not 
realize  the  great  danger  that  surrounded  us,  for  the 
filibusters  on  one  side  and  revolutionists  on  the 
other  were  no  respecter  of  persons.  I  have  never 
understood  why  we  were  not  molested.  The  com- 
pany had  troops  to  guard  the  baggage  and  treasure 
which  consisted  of  bags  of  gold.  This  was  hauled 
across  the  entire  isthmus  in  two-wheeled  carts 
drawn  by  Spanish  oxen  having  horns  nearly  or  quite 
a  yard  across,  to  which  were  attached  strips  of 
wood  with  chains  leading  from  them  to  the  carts. 
The  oxen  were  driven  by  native  teamsters.  After 
an  hour  or  so,  to  my  great  relief,  we  over- 
took our  party  and  I  begged  them  not  to  leave 
me  again. 

It  was  almost  dark  when  we  reached  Virgin  Bay 
and  were  driven  at  once  to  the  depot.  Rain  was 
beginning  to  fall  and  standing  room  was  at  a  pre- 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       145 

mium.  We  decided  to  open  our  hamper  and  have 
supper,  but  had  to  spread  it  in  a  very  small  space 
and  stand  as  best  we  could.  It  was  rather  poor 
eating  with  nothing  to  wash  it  down.  Mr.  Springer 
mysteriously  disappeared  and  after  quite  a  lapse  of 
time  returned  with  a  Mexican  drinking  cup  filled 
with  chocolate.  He  passed  it  around  in  true- loving- 
cup  fashion,  and  when  it  was  drained  some  one  else 
would  take  his  turn  in  getting  it  filled.  In  this 
way  we  made  quite  a  comfortable  meal,  considering 
the  place  and  circumstances.  However,  with  a 
scarcity  of  food  we  thought  ourselves  very  fortu- 
nate, as  most  of  the  people  were  entirely  without. 
When  we  had  finished  and  were  putting-  up  our 
supplies  Mr.  Springer  said  to  me,  "Mrs.  Ivins,  the 
cup  is  yours."  I  gladly  accepted  it  and  still  cherish 
it  as  a  memento  of  rather  an  uncommon  experience. 
It  is  quite  a  curiosity,  made  of  some  kind  of  a  nut, 
carved  while  soft  into  queer  patterns  by  the  natives 
who  generally  carry  them.  They  are  usually  small, 
but  this  is  the  largest  we  saw. 


146      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 
CHAPTER  XXIV. 

•H^Tj^H^  a  scow  face(i  with  sheet  iron  the 
passengers  were  being  taken  out 
to  the  lake  steamer  about  fifty  at 
a     time    by    the    light    of    pine 
torches,  which  occupied  most  of 
HHCiBaBB       the  night.    We  were  to  go  in  the 
last  trip,  and  were  all  on  board, 
Mr.  Ivins  bringing  up  the  rear 
with  the  valuable  hamper.     As  he  stepped  onto  the 
gunwale  his   foot  slipped  throwing  him  headlong 
into  the  midst  of  us.     Just  at  this  moment  a  voice 
called  out  of  the  darkness,  "Is  there  a  man  here  by 
the  name  of  Ivins  ?"     My  husband  replied  from  his 
prostrate  position,  "Yes,  I  am  right  here;  what  do 
you  want?"     The  captain  of  the  scow  said  that  he 
had  orders  to  look  after  us  and  make  our  trip  across 
as  pleasant  as  possible.    This  was  an  agreeable  sur- 
prise, which  we  learned  was  due  to  Mr.  Ruggles, 
the  steamship  company's  agent  on  the  isthmus,  a 
friend  of  my  husband's  sister,  Mrs.  Anderson,  who 
had  gone  with  her  husband  to  Nicaragua  for  the 
benefit  of  his  health.    He  died  shortly  after,  leaving 
her  among  strangers,  but  who  proved  to  be  friends. 

The  company  offered  her  great  inducements  to 
remain  and  open  a  hotel  for  the  accommodation  of 
travelers.  Having  decided  to  do  so  she  erected  a 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       147 

building  of  bamboo  quite  large  and  roomy,  where 
she  lived  for  five  years.  The  officers  of  the  company 
were  most  kind  to  her,  bringing  her  supplies  from 
New  York  and  helping  her  in  many  ways.  It  was 
only  necessary  for  her  to  serve  meals  four  times  a 
month,  to  the  outgoing  and  incoming  passengers. 
Not  infrequently  they  met  at  Castillo  Falls,  her 
home,  and  she  would  serve  meals  to  from  one  to 
two  thousand  people  in  one  or  two  days.  At  the 
time  of  our  visit  she  had  returned  to  Keokuk,  but 
had  written  to  Mr.  Ruggles  that  we  would  be  on 
the  isthmus  in  September,  and  he  being  determined 
to  find  us,  had  made  inquiry  O'f  every  lot  of  pas- 
sengers until  he  met  us  on  this  most  perplexing 
trip.  Our  scow  did  not  reach  the  lake  steamer  until 
after  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  which  we  found 
to  be  like  an  excursion  boat  with  no  accommoda- 
tions for  sleeping.  Imagine  seven  hundred  people 
tired  out  lying  around  on  benches  or  any  other  place 
they  could  find  and  you  have  the  scene.  My  hus- 
band, children  and  myself,  accompanied  by  Miss 
Hughes,  were  shown  at  once  to  the  captain's  room 
and  went  to  bed  as  comfortably  as  if  we  were  at 
home.  It  is  always  well  to  have  friends  at  court. 
There  was  no  prospect  of  crossing  the  lake  that 
night.  The  rain  had  ceased  and  the  morning 
dawned  bright  and  clear  with  the  wind  blowing  a 
gale,  which  rose  higher  with  the  sun,  but  did  not 
go  down  with  it,  so  we  lay  here  at  anchor  till  the 
morning  of  the  second  day.  Our  stay  gave  us  ample 


148      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

time  to  admire  the  lake  which  is  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water,  with  an  island  in  the  center  shaped  like 
a  sugar  loaf,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with  the  most 
luxuriant  vegetation.  We  were  beginning  to  feel 
anxious  about  the  steamer  on  the  other  side,  as  we 
had  been  so  long  in  crossing.  We  had  turned  the 
hamper  over  to  the  rest  of  our  party  who  were  very 
glad  to  have  it,  while  we  were  living  high  at  the 
captain's  table.  There  were  many  curious  glances 
cast  at  us  and  questions  why  we  had  the  privilege 
of  the  upper  deck,  which  was  denied  to  others.  At 
daylight  the  second  morning  we  started  across  the 
lake;  the  run  was  beautiful  and  occupied  the  entire 
forenoon.  Every  one  was  enthusiastic,  for  now  we 
felt  that  we  were  making  up  for  lost  time.  At 
about  noon  we  reached  the  head  of  San  Juan  River 
and  were  transferred  on  movable  bridges  to  the 
waiting  river  boat,  and  before  one  o'clock  were 
again  under  way  down  the  narrow  river  whose 
banks  were  overhung  with  tropical  trees  with  droop- 
ing branches  dipping  into  the  water  and  brushing 
the  sides  of  the  boat.  The  trees  were  filled  with 
birds  of  beautiful  plumage,  parrots,  parroquites 
and  many  other  varieties,  while  several  kinds  of 
monkeys  chattered  overhead. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  river  is  an  old  fort,  and 
some  twelve  miles  down  is  Fort  Castillo,  at  the  falls 
or  rapids  of  the  same  name.  The  adobe  buildings 
stood  on  the  summit  of  a  steep  hill  overlooking  a 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       149 

few  bamboo  houses,  among  them  that  once  owned 
by  Mrs.  Anderson.  Here  we  were  obliged  to 
change  steamers,  walking  around  the  falls,  mean- 
time stopping  for  dinner  at  the  hotel  where  they  had 
been  expecting  us  for  three  days.  The  house  was 
then  kept  by  Mr.  Crocket,  a  former  resident  of 
Keokuk.  When  we  entered  the  hotel  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Crocket  were  trying  to  get  up  a  dinner,  the  former 
with  a  sick  child  in  his  arms.  The  tables  were  filled 
with  a  clamoring  crowd  who  had  no  prospect  of  a 
speedy  meal.  Having  asked  Miss  Hughes  to  take 
charge  of  the  children  and  packages  for  me  I  went 
immediately  to  the  kitchen  where  Mr.  Crocket  was, 
and  asked  what  I  could  do  to  help  her.  She  seemed 
glad  to1  have  me  and  directed  me  to  scramble  eggs. 
I  used  a  five-gallon  keg  of  them  before  I  left  the 
stove.  Mr.  Ivins  was  helping  Mr.  Crocket  wait  on 
the  tables.  Many  of  the  men  were  at  the  kitchen 
cloor  with  their  plates.  When  they  saw  us  go  to 
the  rescue  a  cheer  went  up  and  some  one  said,  "We 
will  get  something  now,  one  of  our  ladies  is  going 
to  help  cook."  Mrs.  Crocket  told  our  party  to  wait 
till  the  crowd  had  finished,  when  she  would  get  us 
up  an  extra  dinner,  but  before  we  were  half  through 
eating  the  boat  bell  rang  pre-emptorily  and  we  were 
obliged  to  leave  on  a  run.  Captain  Townsend  told 
us  that  he  had  waited  for  us  as  long  as  he  possibly 
could. 

We  took  our  way  on  down  the  river,  which  grew 
wider  and  deeper  with  the  same  luxuriant  vegeta- 


T  50      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

tion,  the  dense  jungles  coming  quite  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  boat  was  crowded  to  such  an  extent  that 
the  officers  were  obliged  to  keep  the  people  in  the 
center  of  it  for  fear  it  would  capsize.  At  about 
two  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  arrived  at  Gray 
Town,  at  the  mouth  of  San  Juan  River,  the  small 
river  boat  taking  us  out  to  the  waiting  ocean 
steamer,  where  we  climbed  up  the  stairs  by  the  light 
of  torches,  feeling  as  if  we  were  getting  home  once 
more.  The  vessel  on  which  we  again  embarked  was 
the  historical  steamer  Star  of  the  West,  which  we 
all  remember  so  well  as  being  fired  into  in  Charles- 
ton Harbor — the  first  shot  of  the  Civil  War — as  she 
was  taking  troops  to  Fort  Sumpter  for  the  relief  of 
its  brave  commander,  Anderson.  I  little  thought 
when  I  traveled  on  her  what  vicissitudes  the  beau- 
tiful vessel  would  encounter,  making  her  so  noted  in 
history.  They  had  been  waiting  three  days  for  us 
and  had  steam  up  to  leave  at  daylight.  The  trou- 
bles at  Guatamala  had  compelled  the  company  to 
discontinue  the  Aspinwall  line  of  steamers  for 
awhile,  and  that  was  the  last  vessel  leaving  Gray 
Town  for  three  months.  What  would  have  been 
the  consequence  if  we  had  been  a  few  hours  later 
it  is  hard  to  tell.  As  it  was  our  long  stay  on  the 
isthmus  cost  many  poor  men  their  lives.  It  was 
almost  impossible  for  people  to  get  food  even  if 
they  had  the  means,  and  the  steerage  passengers 
lived  on  green  bananas  and  plantains,  the  result 
being  that  the  cholera  broke  out  among  them  as 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       151 

soon  as  they  boarded  the  Star  of  the  West,  and 
about  fifty  died  before  we  arrived  at  Key  West, 
where  we  landed  for  coal.  Strange  to  say,  there 
was  no  sickness  in  any  other  part  of  the  vessel.  I 
noticed  a  peculiar  motion  in  the  vessel,  owing-  to 
the  stopping  of  the  engines,  which  I  found  to  be 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  some  poor  fellow  his 
burial  in  the  briny  deep.  We  spent  the  most  part 
of  the  day  at  Key  West,  Florida,  enjoying  the 
quaint  old  town,  made  beautiful  by  its  wealth  of 
magnolia  and  oleander  trees  and  other  beautiful 
flowers.  We  also  purchased  many  curios  and  choice 
sea  shells  from  the  coral  reefs  nearby.  At  sundown 
we  again  boarded  the  steamer  to  find  that  the  steer- 
age passengers  had  left  in  a  body  for  fear  of  the 
epidemic.  We  learned  also  that  the  yellow  fever 
was  raging  in  Key  West,  so  I  fear  they  were  not 
much  better  off.  However,  strange  to  say,  there 
was  not  another  case  of  cholera  on  the  steamer; 
nevertheless  we  were  compelled  to  spend  the  night 
at  quarantine  o>n  our  arrival  at  New  York.  I  had 
become  quite  accustomed  to  the  rolling  motion  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  but  the  Star 
of  the  West  pitched  from  bow  to  stern,  and  when 
she  mounted  a  wave  and  started  down  the  other 
side  my  heart  went  clear  down  to  my  boots ;  it  was 
like  learning  all  over  again. 

We  had  the  usual  storm  off  Cape  Hatteras,  but 
we  weathered  it  bravely.    The  arrival  at  New  York 


152      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days. 

September  twenty-ninth  gave  me  no  thrill  of  pleas- 
ure, for  I  was  already  longing  for  my  California 
home.  We  remained  in  quarantine  all  night;  no 
one  went  to  bed,  but  sang  songs,  played  cards, 
danced  and  tried  to  while  away  the  weary  hours. 
Some  one  struck  up  the  song,  "The  sun  shies  bright 
on  my  California  home,"  and  I  longed  for  the 
lonely  ranch,  even  to  the  coyotes  and  the  grizzly 
bears.  I  begged  my  husband  to  make  a  visit  and  go 
back,  but  he  said  again  he  never  put  his  hand  to  the 
plow  and  looked  back;  so  with  a  heavy  heart  I 
journeyed  on  to  Keokuk  to  meet  many  dear  friends 
who  were  so  kind  that  after  awhile  I  became  recon- 
ciled to  remain  where  my  lot  seemed  to  be  cast,  but 
I  have  never  ceased  to  remember  with  pleasure  my 
loved  home  in  the  land  of  sunshine  and  flowers. 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       153 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

|HILE  the  changes  on  previous  oc-, 
casions  of  absence  had  been 
great,  during  this  it  was  was 
almost  marvelous,  and  when  we 
arrived  in  Keokuk  again  with  a 
small  fortune  in  gold,  the  boom 
of  1856  was  at  its  height.  Prop^ 
erty  was  held  at  fabulous  prices,  people  were  per- 
fectly wild  and  soon  my  husband  was  a-s  much  so 
as  the  rest.  No  persuasion  or  entreaties  on  my  part 
could  restrain  him,  and  in  a  short  time  he  had  in- 
vested all  we  had  in  Keokuk  real  estate,  bought 
a  fine  home  on  Grand  Avenue  at  the  head  of  Sev- 
enth street,  and  proceeded  to  enjoy  life.  But  alas 
for  human  plans  they  "Aft  gang  aglee."  The  social 
side  of  life  was  most  delightful.  Every  one  seemed 
prospering;  parties,  receptions  and  entertainment 
was  constantly  going  on,  which  were  never  excelled 
in  this  place. 

The  first  theater  called  the.  Athaeneum,  was 
erected  about  1856  on  Second  street,  between  Main 
and  Johnson.  It  was  well  patronized  and  many 
high-class  entertainments  were  given.  One  of  the 
most  elaborate  theatricals  ever  gotten  up  here  was 
that  of  the  Mistletoe  Bough,  presented  by  some 
young  people  for  a  charitable  object.  It  would  have 


1 54      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Dayf. 

done  credit  to  professionals  in  point  of  elegance 
and  beauty  of  the  participants.  The  costumes  of 
the  ladies  were  many  of  them  heirlooms  of  brocade 
and  velvet  trimmed  with  rare  old  lace,  with  rouge 
and  powder  and  patches.  The  gentlemen  who  were 
in  colonial  dress  of  velvet  and  buff  satin,  knee  pants 
and  buckles  with  wigs  and  cues,  were  royal  com- 
panions for  the  grace  and  beauty  of  the  ladies.  The 
play — a  pantomine — was  given  three  nights  and 
the  house  was  packed  each  night. 

One  of  the  notable  gatherings  of  1856  was 
called  the  "Southern  Ball,"  gotten  up  by  the  South- 
ern element  which  was  very  strong,  composed  of 
people  from  several  southern  states,  Kentuckians 
being  largely  preponderant. 

This  ball  was  intended  to  and  probably  did  sur- 
pass in  point  of  elegance  anything  ever  given  here 
before.  No  pains  were  spared  in  its  appointments; 
for  weeks  little  else  was  thought  or  talked  of 
among  the  gay  set,  and  it  seemed  the  climax  of 
splendor  for  the  little  city.  And  indeed  was  almost 
a  forerunner  of  the  crash  of  1857,  whose  faint 
warnings  were  even  then  beginning  to  be  felt,  which 
in  a  few  short  months  changed  the  aspect  of  the 
town  in  business  as  well  as  socially. 

Many  of  those  who  appeared  to  be  on  the  top 
way  of  prosperity  lost  their  all  in  the  general  wreck. 
Property  that  had  been  valued  at  fabulous  prices 
could  hardly  be  given  away ;  business  was  at  a  stand- 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       155 

still;  many  additions  which  had  been  laid  off  with 
the  expectations  of  making  their  owners  wealthy, 
were  returned  to  their  original  use  as  corn  fields 
or  potato  patches,  with  no  signs  of  extending  the 
town  for  years  to  come. 

Before  there  were  any  indications  of  returning 
prosperity,  the  clouds  of  disagreement  between  the 
North  and  South,  which  had  seemed  but  clouds  in 
the  distance,  broke  over  us,  and  the  first  gun  fired 
in  Charleston  harbor  echoed  in  Keokuk. 

Being  situated  so  near  the  border,  and  with  such 
varied  elements,  feeling  ran  high.  And  now  indeed 
nothing  was  talked  of  but  the  war.  It  was  hoped, 
however,  that  before  the  time  of  the  men  enlisted 
for  one  hundred  days  expired,  all  would  be  set- 
tled. Many  of  the  men  began  to  organize  com- 
panies and  regiments  for  the  continuance  of  the 
strife,  which  was  assuming  such  alarming  propbr- 
tions.  As  will  be  seen  from  history,  many  Keokuk 
men  received  commissions  elsewhere.  But  Com- 
pany A  of  Iowa  Second  Regiment  was  eminently 
a  Keokuk  company,  and  was  composed  mostly  of 
the  crack  militia  company  of  the  city  who  had  vol- 
unteered almost  in  a  body.  And  many  of  the  brav- 
est Iowa  officers  were  selected  from  the  Keokuk 
rifles. 

The  regiment  was  in  camp  here  awaiting  orders, 
which  might  come  at  any  time.  The  days  were  re- 
plete with  interesting  occurrences.  Among  them 


156      Pen  Pictures  of  Early  1  Vest  cm  Days. 

few  will  remember  the  making  of  the  first  flag  that 
went  from  Keokuk  to  the  scene  of  conflict. 

A  small  band  of  patriotic  women  resolved  that 
our  lx>ys  should  have  a  fine  flag.  I  being  young  and 
energetic,  was  awarded  the  honor  of  managing  the 
enterprise.  I  ordered  the  silk,  for  it  must  be  made 
of  silk,  and  when  it  came 'planned  and  cut  out  the 
beautiful  emblem.  For  many  days  a  faithful  half- 
dozen  met  at  my  house  and  sewed  the  long  seams, 
and  deft  fingers  placed  the  white  stars  on  the  field 
of  blue.  The  staff  was  made  of  strong  wood,  with 
heavy  cord  and  tassels.  It  was  the  regulation  size, 
and  when  all  was  completed  we  were  quite  satisfied 
with  the  result  of  our  labors.  We  went  out  often 
to  see  the  soldiers  drill,  and  arranged  for  a  grand 
presentation.  But  alas!  before  the  day  arrived  to 
present  our  beautiful  banner,  the  Iowa  Second  Regi- 
ment was  ordered  to  the  front. 

One  of  the  large  St.  Louis  packets,  the  Jennie 
Dean,  was  chartered  to  take  them  south.  Nothing 
daunted,  however,  the  faithful  half-dozen  rose  with 
the  dawn  on  that  memorable  morning,  gathered 
flowers  in  the  rain,  and  with  them  and  the  beloved 
flag  hurried  down  to  the  wharf,  where  all  the  citi- 
zens were  assembled,  and  amid  smiles  and  tears 
gave  it  to  those  we  loved  so  well,  to  be  borne  by 
them  to  victory  or  death.  We  showered  them  with 
flowers,  and  as  the  steamer  swung  out  into  the 
stream  a  loud  hurrah  went  up  from  the  soldiers 


Pen  Pictures  of  Early  Western  Days.       157 

boys  for  "The  girls  they  left  behind  them."  Com- 
pany A  carried  our  flag  all  through  the  war,  bring- 
ing it  back  tattered  and  torn  by  shot  and  shell.  It 
was  taken  to  Des  Moines  where  it  is  still  preserved 
as  a  precious  relic  among*  others  at  the  capital, 
while  most  of  those  whose  love  and  loyalty  were 
in  .its  making  have  crossed  the  divide. 

Keokuk  was  selected  as  a  hospital  post,  and  there 
were  established  five  hospitals,  the  Estes  House  and 
the  Keokuk  Hotel  being  the  largest.  Hundreds  of 
sick  and  disabled  soldiers  were  brought  here.  The 
arrival  of  a  steam  boat  with  a  yellow  flag  was  the 
signal  for  every  one  to  turn  out  to  their  assistance, 
and  the  inhabitants  never  failed  in  their  devotion  to 
those  who  were  defending  our  beloved  country. 
Our  National  Cemetery  speaks  for  itself  of  those 
who  found  their  last  bivouac  on  its  quiet  slopes. 

One  migh  go  on  and  relate  many  interesting 
events  of  the  years  of  the  Civil  War.  They  are  of 
so  recent  date,  however,  as  to  be  well  remembered 
by  the  present  inhabitants.  But  most  of  those  who 
played  their  part  in  the  earlier  clays  have  passed 
to  the  Beyond,  and  only  two  or  three  remain,  and  of 
these  only  one  to  gather  up  the  threads  of  memo- 
ries of  the  past  and  weave  them  into  'Pen  Pictures 
of  the  Beautiful  Long  Ago. 


THE  END. 


